Lighting Citizen CLU-058-1825 build
- Thread starter dankle
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Hi Dankle and welcome to AFN and the LED DIY section.
Great to see you getting in to the spirit of things and building a light.
However we like to see best practice being used as it makes for a better operating and a safer light.
So I'm going to run through a few things, some of which may have already been mentioned but it is my duty as the LED Moderator to point these out, I hope you will find it useful to you!
Although there are videos on the web that use Kapton tape, those videos generally only used it when the maker had no available holders.
I can see the reason why it seems like an ok work around but it really isn't best practice.
COB holders are cheap and I would advise to use them every time.
The other option is to use a thermal epoxy adhesive.
Both options work and don't cost much.
Kapton tape can give over time and doesn't give equal pressure over the chip and isn't solid enough as BigSm0 pointed out.
BigSm0 is one of our LED safety officers here in the LED section, so I can recommend following his advice!
This is the "BJB 47.319.4160.50" Chip holder for Citizen CLU058 COB a nifty bit of kit.
A bit of drilling and tapping are required a tap kit is not much money and can easily be found on auction sites.
The other alternative is to buy pre drilled heat sinks, when you do this you will know that they mean the thermal requirements of you COB. Northern Grow Lights has some nice pre-drilled heat sinks.
Two part thermal epoxy from "ArcticSilver.com"
You need to mix the two parts thoroughly together and carefully apply to the chip.
A selection of thermal grease, not all thermal greases are the same quality, so have a look on the internet for a top ten list of thermal grease.
ArcticSilver is a good one to go for and gets good thermal test results.
These are for cleaning and removing thermal compounds.
Bottle 1 will remove old thermal grease.
Bottle 2 will remove any fingerprints and other dirt to give you a clean surface to your chip and heat sink.
Be sure to use clean lint free cloths and use a separate cloth for each task.
Here we see some alcohol wipes, these are impregnated with Isopropyl Alcohol and will also remove any finger grease or dirt.
A note on your heat sinks.
Heat sinks take the heat from the COB and then dissipate it, mean you COB stay within safe operating temperatures and therefor prolonging the life of your chip.
When a chip is bigger than the contact area those parts of the chip don't cool as efficiently which can lead to shorter chip life.
When choosing a heat sink you want to make sure it has the mass required and a suitable contact to ensure it dissipates the heat correctly.
This is a passive pin finned heat sink for a CREECXB3590 COB, you see there is plenty of flat surface to attach the cob to.
We here at AFN ask that members follow best practice so that everyone stays safe and their kit remains operational for the longest period.
In order to do that we must point out anything we think is a issue to be addressed, so that we are all on the same page.
On occasion we may ask that changes be made to posts so that they adhere to best practice, this mean others don't copy something that we believe could be at risk of failure or even hazardous.
If you ever need a hand we are always happy to help, BigSm0 or pop22 can point you in the right direction.
We believe in the AFN spirit which is be nice and helpful to all our members.
So we just want to make sure your getting the best advice available and so that you can grow the best weed possible.
Don't forget to come and join use in the Live Stoner Gossip section, it's a great way to meet members and have a giggle and hope you join in the chatter with us.
All the best
arty
Great to see you getting in to the spirit of things and building a light.
However we like to see best practice being used as it makes for a better operating and a safer light.
So I'm going to run through a few things, some of which may have already been mentioned but it is my duty as the LED Moderator to point these out, I hope you will find it useful to you!
Although there are videos on the web that use Kapton tape, those videos generally only used it when the maker had no available holders.
I can see the reason why it seems like an ok work around but it really isn't best practice.
COB holders are cheap and I would advise to use them every time.
The other option is to use a thermal epoxy adhesive.
Both options work and don't cost much.
Kapton tape can give over time and doesn't give equal pressure over the chip and isn't solid enough as BigSm0 pointed out.
BigSm0 is one of our LED safety officers here in the LED section, so I can recommend following his advice!
A bit of drilling and tapping are required a tap kit is not much money and can easily be found on auction sites.
The other alternative is to buy pre drilled heat sinks, when you do this you will know that they mean the thermal requirements of you COB. Northern Grow Lights has some nice pre-drilled heat sinks.
You need to mix the two parts thoroughly together and carefully apply to the chip.
A selection of thermal grease, not all thermal greases are the same quality, so have a look on the internet for a top ten list of thermal grease.
ArcticSilver is a good one to go for and gets good thermal test results.
These are for cleaning and removing thermal compounds.
Bottle 1 will remove old thermal grease.
Bottle 2 will remove any fingerprints and other dirt to give you a clean surface to your chip and heat sink.
Be sure to use clean lint free cloths and use a separate cloth for each task.
Here we see some alcohol wipes, these are impregnated with Isopropyl Alcohol and will also remove any finger grease or dirt.
A note on your heat sinks.
Heat sinks take the heat from the COB and then dissipate it, mean you COB stay within safe operating temperatures and therefor prolonging the life of your chip.
When a chip is bigger than the contact area those parts of the chip don't cool as efficiently which can lead to shorter chip life.
When choosing a heat sink you want to make sure it has the mass required and a suitable contact to ensure it dissipates the heat correctly.
This is a passive pin finned heat sink for a CREECXB3590 COB, you see there is plenty of flat surface to attach the cob to.
We here at AFN ask that members follow best practice so that everyone stays safe and their kit remains operational for the longest period.
In order to do that we must point out anything we think is a issue to be addressed, so that we are all on the same page.
On occasion we may ask that changes be made to posts so that they adhere to best practice, this mean others don't copy something that we believe could be at risk of failure or even hazardous.
If you ever need a hand we are always happy to help, BigSm0 or pop22 can point you in the right direction.
We believe in the AFN spirit which is be nice and helpful to all our members.
So we just want to make sure your getting the best advice available and so that you can grow the best weed possible.
Don't forget to come and join use in the Live Stoner Gossip section, it's a great way to meet members and have a giggle and hope you join in the chatter with us.
All the best
arty
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ClockworkOrange
+SATOR AREPO TENET OPERA ROTAS+
@derek420colorado you may want to know that we do have some fresh toes right here
@dankle just a runnuing gag going on here, nothing to fear
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[HASHTAG]#toehunter[/HASHTAG] @ClockworkOrange I think I might see if we cant get a badge fashioned up for that like a little dude hunting a toe like a deer with a rifle hahahaha
Hi Knonop, you can check out the results with the Blue Amnesia/Red Poison grow in my sig
Yielded 2 oz from blue amnesia but I really didn't have the substrate dialed in so this current run will give a better idea of yield - growing a blue mystic in an XL autopot with roots soil, under three 048-1212s (160W) but I plan to move the 058-1825s back in once a liquid cooling bar is built and run them at 90W each.
Yielded 2 oz from blue amnesia but I really didn't have the substrate dialed in so this current run will give a better idea of yield - growing a blue mystic in an XL autopot with roots soil, under three 048-1212s (160W) but I plan to move the 058-1825s back in once a liquid cooling bar is built and run them at 90W each.
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