Lighting Draw at the wall?

[Coffee Monster]

I currently have a Mars II 700. I'm looking at swapping out for either a Tasty T4 or a DIY and I'm trying to grasp some of the concepts involved.
I take it that the max current draw at the wall is determined by the driver(s) used? I.E. A Cree cob that can handle up to 100w but is driven by a given driver at 50w for better efficiency will have a max draw at the wall of roughly 50w (each) max, and a dimmer would change the draw to a lower amount but never higher?
I have a goal of not exceeding roughly the same draw I currently have with the Mars (a little over 300w.)
@BigSm0 ? Anyone else?

 

[BigSm0]

Trying to grasp some of the concepts involved? Jeez man you sound like a pro! Yes yes and yes your absolutely right. Marsdrivers usually put cobs around 25w each. Very efficient at 650a btw. At the same wall wattage with twice the efficiency will give you a 50% brighter and 50% cooler running light. Sticking with 300w should get you around 180 par watts. 2 cobs per driver and depending on the panel size 2-10 cobs. Citizen 1212's from cobkits with a bjb holder cost around $16 each. That's an upgrade worth doing my man. Northern grow lights has the 1812's for 19 each with holder and a few more par watts per cob.

 

[BigSm0]

Ohhhh gosh I just realized we have the soul survivor here! How's things man? Are you finding your way around this place ok?

 

[Roasty McToasty]

Basicly watts are current (Amperage), multiplied by volts. With cobs in a string you add the volts for each cob in the string, and multiply that with the current your using. Here's an example. 4 36v cobs in a string will draw 144v approximately, my 4 crees are 142v. So your driver must be rated for 142v. I use a driver with a max of 143v. That driver is 1750mA. Their max wattage is around 60w a piece. Now the higher current a driver has the less volts it can safely deliver. And vise versa. But yes to your question about the maximum, 1400mA would get you to 50w each cob, and smash your mars light in comparison.

 

[BigSm0]

Smash is an understatement roasty

Great explanation too

 

[Coffee Monster]

Yup, soul survivor here lol! Finding my way around ok, a little challenging at times but I think I'm up for it. Things are good, just dropped a Blue Cush into the paper towels to join my three wee ones.
I'm glad to hear you confirm I'm on the right track, 50% brighter and 50% cooler sounds great to me. I'm not planning to rebuild the Mars, just planning on selling it or re-purposing it. So I'm either gonna grab a Tasty or DIY from scratch. Thanks for sharing the knowledge BigSm0 and Roasty, though I must confess Roasty left me brain in a knot. One of the things I'm not crazy about the DIY scene at the moment is there seems to be a decided lack of frames/housings.

 

[BigSm0]

This is 80/20 extrusion and very simple just pricey.
Angle aluminum is a little erector set looking but perfectly functional. The easiest is the mod420 from northern grow lights who is a vendor here.

We would be glad to assist in any build if you do decide. I have to say i haven't heard of a single dissatisfied cob owner yet. Tasty makes a good light, If you want to pay and play it's an option. Diy on the other hand is about 40-50% the cost and you have unlimited options a far as size and layout goes. They do drive their cobs allot harder then most other companies which has its advantages and disadvantages. Again with DIY you have that option. I'd personally rather have 8 cobs for 200w than 4 cobs for 200 watts and they do it in 3.

 

[Coffee Monster]

I'm still leanin towards pay and play but the appeal of DIY is growing on me. You got those pieces that mount to the 80/20 made for you though, correct? I've seen the mod420 (sold out) but I'm really looking for more of a bar type shape to cover an area of between 2x4 and 3x6 in one light.
I hadn't realized it until you said something but both the Tasty and the Amare (pro3/pro4) must be driving the cobs at roughly 75%? So cob life slightly diminished? and lower efficiency?
The amare complicates things too with all the mono emitters(?)

 

[BigSm0]

I'm still leanin towards pay and play but the appeal of DIY is growing on me. You got those pieces that mount to the 80/20 made for you though, correct? I've seen the mod420 (sold out) but I'm really looking for more of a bar type shape to cover an area of between 2x4 and 3x6 in one light.
I hadn't realized it until you said something but both the Tasty and the Amare (pro3/pro4) must be driving the cobs at roughly 75%? So cob life slightly diminished? and lower efficiency?
The amare complicates things too with all the mono emitters(?)

The good thing about DIY is the ability to make what every you want. As you probably know I run 5 Amare lights and use the DIY for supplemental. At times there is allot of light being run which makes it that much better. Now amare does sell bars and tasty does too but if you wanted a 6 cob bar or lower wattage cobs whatever the purpose you can Make it exact to your needs. For my space If I didn't go with Amare I would have the same wattage cobs, then added in specific 5watt monos and uv-b so the solar spec just made sense. The pro series were built as commercial light. I don't think I have seen another light with 4 meanwell drivers in it besides the pro-4. It's a serious light and made to last. The cobs are driven harder as you mentioned but still backed with a ful 5 year warranty.