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1
Council of Bay Area Resource Conservation Districts
Equine Facilities Assistance Program
“Working with horse owners to protect San Francisco Bay Area water resources.”
Composting Horse Manure
Number 2 June 2000
What is compost?
Nature continually recycles organic materials: grasses, leaves, branches,
bark, and dead animals. Microbes and fungi decompose organic materials
into an earthy smelling material we call compost. Since ancient times,
humans have learned how to manage and speed up the process of
composting. The simple steps required to compost horse manure aid in the
disposal of waste and produce a useful product.
Why compost?
Caring for your horses can require a considerable amount of time, energy
and expense managing manure and soiled bedding. By composting horse
waste you can realize the following benefits.
Council of Bay Area Resource Conservation Districts
Equine Facilities Assistance Program
“Working with horse owners to protect San Francisco Bay Area water resources.”
Composting Horse Manure
Number 2 June 2000
What is compost?
Nature continually recycles organic materials: grasses, leaves, branches,
bark, and dead animals. Microbes and fungi decompose organic materials
into an earthy smelling material we call compost. Since ancient times,
humans have learned how to manage and speed up the process of
composting. The simple steps required to compost horse manure aid in the
disposal of waste and produce a useful product.
Why compost?
Caring for your horses can require a considerable amount of time, energy
and expense managing manure and soiled bedding. By composting horse
waste you can realize the following benefits.
·
Composting manure decreases the volume of waste by over 50%. For a
horse owner with limited space this benefit can be very important.
·
Composting reduces the amount of waste going to landfills.
·
·
Composted manure is easier to handle than rotted manure.
·
·
Composting reduces the possibility of parasite transmission between
horses. The heat generated during composting kills both worm larvae and
weed seeds.
·
Composting reduces fly problems by eliminating breeding ground.
·
·
Compost is a great soil conditioner, adding organic matter that improves
soil structure, drainage, and water retention.
·
Compost provides nutrients to fertilize plant growth.
·
·
Composting lowers the risk of contaminating surface and ground water.
·
·
Composting reduces odors.
·
·
Composting makes your property more "desirable," especially to your
neighbors.
Participating
Resource Conservation
Districts
Alameda County RCD
Contra Costa RCD
Marin County RCD
San Mateo County RCD
Southern Sonoma County RCD
Non-point source pollution
consists of the diffuse discharge of
pollutants that can occur over an
extensive area. As water from rainfall,
snowmelt, or human activity moves
over and through the ground it picks
up and transports natural and
manmade pollutants, eventually
depositing them into surface and
ground water.
Water quality:
Resource Conservation
Districts
Alameda County RCD
Contra Costa RCD
Marin County RCD
San Mateo County RCD
Southern Sonoma County RCD
Non-point source pollution
consists of the diffuse discharge of
pollutants that can occur over an
extensive area. As water from rainfall,
snowmelt, or human activity moves
over and through the ground it picks
up and transports natural and
manmade pollutants, eventually
depositing them into surface and
ground water.
Water quality:
a neutral term
that relates to water’s chemical,
biological and physical characteristics.
The quality of water often determines
its specific use or its ability to support
various beneficial uses.
The quality of water often determines
its specific use or its ability to support
various beneficial uses.
For more information contact:
Council of Bay Area RCDs
1301 Redwood Way, Ste 170
Petaluma, CA 94954
(707) 794-1242, ext 121
2
Where to compost
Choose a site close to the source of manure with easy access. However, other factors in selecting the optimum site include:
·
Council of Bay Area RCDs
1301 Redwood Way, Ste 170
Petaluma, CA 94954
(707) 794-1242, ext 121
2
Where to compost
Choose a site close to the source of manure with easy access. However, other factors in selecting the optimum site include:
·
Soil permeability and drainage — Locate the compost pile on compacted soil or an impervious surface to lessen the
seepage of nutrients and salts into the ground. Composting on top of a concrete pad may help in less desirable locations. Some
people like to use a concrete pad to keep the area neater. The soil surrounding the pile should provide moderate drainage and
should not be compacted from high traffic or pool up during wet weather. A slight slope of 2-4% will help drain water away from the
compost area.
should not be compacted from high traffic or pool up during wet weather. A slight slope of 2-4% will help drain water away from the
compost area.
·
Topography — Avoid locations near steep slopes or on highly erodible soils. Keep the composting site away from natural
drainage areas and wells. The goal is to keep clean water clean and prevent contaminated water from the compost area from
entering waterways. Runoff from a compost area may be high in nutrients and adversely affect aquatic life. If you are limited in
site selection and a less desirable location is your only option, you may have to consider constructing diversions for capturing
runoff from and/or diverting drainage around the compost area.
site selection and a less desirable location is your only option, you may have to consider constructing diversions for capturing
runoff from and/or diverting drainage around the compost area.
·
Regulations and advice — Your local public health department, planning department and the Regional Water Quality
Control Board can provide information on any regulations regarding set-back distances from waterways. Local zoning
ordinances may require a set-back from property boundaries. The local USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service,
Resource Conservation District, University of California Cooperative Extension and Master Gardeners can help evaluate and
help with design of your compost system.
Resource Conservation District, University of California Cooperative Extension and Master Gardeners can help evaluate and
help with design of your compost system.
·
Future needs — Lastly, consider any long-range plans. Do you intend to expand your operation with more horses,
buildings or fencing? You may need a larger composting area to accommodate any planned expansions.
How to compost
Ingredients —
Ingredients —
Composting horse manure is simple. The basic "ingredients" for composting are carbon materials,
nitrogen materials, water and air. As with any recipe, these four ingredients require the proper quantities, mixing, heat and time
to produce compost.
Horse manure alone provides the desired ratio of carbon material to nitrogen material, 30:1. The addition of bedding like
straw, wood shavings or newspaper increases the carbon content, which will have to be balanced with additional material high in
nitrogen, like food scraps, grass clippings, or urea. A practical method for calculating the amount needed is described in
“Compost Production and Utilization.” (See Resources.)
Horse manure alone provides the desired ratio of carbon material to nitrogen material, 30:1. The addition of bedding like
straw, wood shavings or newspaper increases the carbon content, which will have to be balanced with additional material high in
nitrogen, like food scraps, grass clippings, or urea. A practical method for calculating the amount needed is described in
“Compost Production and Utilization.” (See Resources.)
Methods —
You can compost in a number of different ways. For a small-scale operation, you would most likely compost
in a
pile or in concrete or wooden bins. Composting in a bin system is neater, it keeps the materials enclosed and separated and
requires less room. A three bin system works well for managing the waste for four or fewer horses. Construct bins next to one
another. One bin being active, where freshly collected waste is deposited. The next bin contains the "composting" pile. And the
third bin contains the finished product, ready to use. There are many designs available for bin construction but keep in mind that
a bin or a pile needs to be at least 3 feet wide, 3 feet tall, and 3 feet long. Piles smaller than this will have trouble maintaining a
proper temperature.
Another system is a
third bin contains the finished product, ready to use. There are many designs available for bin construction but keep in mind that
a bin or a pile needs to be at least 3 feet wide, 3 feet tall, and 3 feet long. Piles smaller than this will have trouble maintaining a
proper temperature.
Another system is a
passively aerated pile. Before you build your pile, line up several four inch PVC pipes (length and
number depends on the size of the pile) on the ground. Drill one-inch holes throughout the pipe to allow air to flow freely. The
pipes should extend beyond the perimeter of the pile. Build the pile on top of the pipes. You can also place pipes in the middle
of larger piles to increase airflow. This method may still require occasional turning.
of larger piles to increase airflow. This method may still require occasional turning.
Forced aeration static piles
are even more elaborate. A thermostat triggers a blower to force piped air through a pile or
windrow. The compost does not have to be turned.
Composting larger amounts of waste works better in long narrow piles called
windrows. Because of the high density of
horse manure, the windrows should not be higher than 3-5 feet and wider than 12 feet. This size will allow for passive air
movement through the windrow. The windrow can be as long as you wish. The windrows can be placed side-by-side, but unless
a forced aeration system is planned remember to allow room for turning. Turn windrows with a windrow turner, which is an
expensive piece of machinery, or a front-end loader tractor.
Whether you use piles, a bin system or windrows, a roof, lid, or tarp should
a forced aeration system is planned remember to allow room for turning. Turn windrows with a windrow turner, which is an
expensive piece of machinery, or a front-end loader tractor.
Whether you use piles, a bin system or windrows, a roof, lid, or tarp should
cover the compost. Covering compost sheds
rainwater preventing the compost from becoming too wet. Shedding water away from the compost will also lessen the amount of
leaching or washing of nutrients into waterways. Covering the pile also helps retain heat and limits fly breeding opportunities. It
may be impractical to cover large windrows with a roof, in this case, cover them in the rainy season with a tarp.
3
may be impractical to cover large windrows with a roof, in this case, cover them in the rainy season with a tarp.
3
Pile Management
·
·
Additional Materials If you are mixing other organic materials like food scraps in with the manure, make sure they are
of a uniform size, about 1/2-inch in diameter. This will help produce a homogeneous product and keep the decomposition rates
of the materials the same. Mix additional materials into the pile as it is built. This will help deter pests and flies and help keep
the odor down. Avoid adding meat and dairy products to your pile, which may attract scavengers. Also avoid adding cat or dog
feces to the pile, they can contain harmful parasites.
the odor down. Avoid adding meat and dairy products to your pile, which may attract scavengers. Also avoid adding cat or dog
feces to the pile, they can contain harmful parasites.
·
Water — To monitor the pile, you will need to keep track of the moisture content and the temperature. An ideal compost
mixture contains 50-60% moisture.
You can test for moisture by squeezing a handful of compost. It is wet enough if a small
amount of water comes out between your fingers. It will feel like a wrung out sponge. The moisture content of fresh horse
manure is nearly ideal. Water provides an environment for microbes to live in. Too wet or too dry a pile will cause the essential
microbes to die. So pay attention to the moisture content of your compost pile and, if necessary, add water when adding material
or turning the compost. Keep the pile covered to help maintain proper moisture content.
microbes to die. So pay attention to the moisture content of your compost pile and, if necessary, add water when adding material
or turning the compost. Keep the pile covered to help maintain proper moisture content.
·
Turning — The more often you turn the pile, the faster it will compost. Turning the pile mixes the ingredients, provides
oxygen to the microbes, rebuilds the porosity of the pile, and exposes all of the pile equally to the air in the outer layer and to the
high temperature in the center of the pile. Turning the pile also eliminates anaerobic organisms that cause foul odors. For faster
composting, turn the pile 3 times per week. Small compost piles can be turned in a few minutes with a pitchfork. Larger piles
require more labor, a tractor or a windrow turner.
composting, turn the pile 3 times per week. Small compost piles can be turned in a few minutes with a pitchfork. Larger piles
require more labor, a tractor or a windrow turner.
·
Temperature — Decomposition of organic matter by microbes produces heat. The optimal temperature range of your
pile should be between 122 and 145 degrees Fahrenheit.
These high temperatures will kill pathogens and weed seeds. Don't
allow temperatures to rise much higher or the microbes will also die. When the pile reaches 140 degrees, start turning the pile
more and remember to keep it moist. The moisture will help keep the temperature from getting too hot. Spontaneous combustion
can occur but generally in conditions when the pile is over 12 feet high and has only a 25-45% moisture content. Long probed
compost thermometers can be purchased in many gardening catalogues and at some gardening stores. Monitor the temperature,
in the middle of the pile, every day if possible, and keep records.
can occur but generally in conditions when the pile is over 12 feet high and has only a 25-45% moisture content. Long probed
compost thermometers can be purchased in many gardening catalogues and at some gardening stores. Monitor the temperature,
in the middle of the pile, every day if possible, and keep records.
·
Time — The compost will be ready to use in 3 to 8 weeks depending on how it is managed and the climate; it will take
longer in the cooler months. High-grade compost, used in potting mixes, needs more time and more management. Lower grade
compost, used on pastures or around the yard, requires less time and management.
When is compost ready?
You will know the compost is ready when the temperature in the middle of the pile subsides to the ambient
surrounding temperature and does not reheat with turning.
You will know the compost is ready when the temperature in the middle of the pile subsides to the ambient
surrounding temperature and does not reheat with turning.
The moisture content will be near 50%. Mature compost is
evenly textured and has an earthy smell. Or, you can buy kits to test for readiness. The tests measure the amount of carbon
dioxide and the amount of decomposition that is still possible. Before you use the compost, check the pH. The pH value desired
for growing most food crops are around 6.8-7.0 and compost is generally neutral (7.0) to slightly alkaline (7.1-8.0). Check with
the University of California Cooperative Extension or Master Gardeners on plants that may require a more acidic (lower pH) or
alkaline (higher pH) soil. Add lime if the compost is too acidic. Add aluminum sulfate if it is too alkaline.
for growing most food crops are around 6.8-7.0 and compost is generally neutral (7.0) to slightly alkaline (7.1-8.0). Check with
the University of California Cooperative Extension or Master Gardeners on plants that may require a more acidic (lower pH) or
alkaline (higher pH) soil. Add lime if the compost is too acidic. Add aluminum sulfate if it is too alkaline.
What is compost used for?
Compost can be applied as a soil amendment and fertilizer. You can incorporate it into gardens or spread it on your
pastures. It can be used as a mulch and top dressing around trees and shrubs or in vineyards and orchards. Compost is not very
effective as an immediate nitrogen fertilizer, although it will contribute to soil fertility in the long term. Compost should be
spread just before or during the growing season when there is little likelihood of immediate rain washing the compost into
waterways. If the compost is well aged and cured (allowed to sit for an additional 1-3 months), it can be used as a potting mix or
seed starter. Less mature compost will prevent roots from developing because it is still decomposing and using up oxygen in the
process. Compost can also be used to cushion the footing in arenas and on trails.
Remember that compost can be an asset to your property. It may not solve all of your waste disposal problems but it will
help reduce the amount of waste and provide you with a valuable product to use, sell or give away.
4
Symptom Problem Solution
Compost has bad odor
Compost has bad odor
and soggy
Pile dry inside
Pile damp and warm in
middle but nowhere else
Pile damp and smells
fine but not heating
Not enough air
Not enough air
and too wet
Not enough water
Pile too small
Too much carbon
Turn pile more often
Mix in dry ingredients like
leaves or straw
Add water when turning
Add more raw ingredients to
increase pile size – pile has to
be at least 27 cubic feet
Add a high nitrogen source: manure,
green grass, food, blood meal, or a
synthetic fertilizer such as urea or
ammonium sulfate
Trouble shooting
“Compost Production and Utilization: A Growers Guide”
Publication 21514. 1995.
Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources
University of California
6701 San Pablo Ave.
Oakland, CA 94608-1239
1-800-994-8849
http://danrcs.ucdavis.edu
“Compost - It’s a Natural, A Farmers Field Guide to
Compost Products and Use”
California Integrated Waste Management Board
8800 Cal Center Drive
Sacramento, CA 95826
Biocycle
Compost can be applied as a soil amendment and fertilizer. You can incorporate it into gardens or spread it on your
pastures. It can be used as a mulch and top dressing around trees and shrubs or in vineyards and orchards. Compost is not very
effective as an immediate nitrogen fertilizer, although it will contribute to soil fertility in the long term. Compost should be
spread just before or during the growing season when there is little likelihood of immediate rain washing the compost into
waterways. If the compost is well aged and cured (allowed to sit for an additional 1-3 months), it can be used as a potting mix or
seed starter. Less mature compost will prevent roots from developing because it is still decomposing and using up oxygen in the
process. Compost can also be used to cushion the footing in arenas and on trails.
Remember that compost can be an asset to your property. It may not solve all of your waste disposal problems but it will
help reduce the amount of waste and provide you with a valuable product to use, sell or give away.
4
Symptom Problem Solution
Compost has bad odor
Compost has bad odor
and soggy
Pile dry inside
Pile damp and warm in
middle but nowhere else
Pile damp and smells
fine but not heating
Not enough air
Not enough air
and too wet
Not enough water
Pile too small
Too much carbon
Turn pile more often
Mix in dry ingredients like
leaves or straw
Add water when turning
Add more raw ingredients to
increase pile size – pile has to
be at least 27 cubic feet
Add a high nitrogen source: manure,
green grass, food, blood meal, or a
synthetic fertilizer such as urea or
ammonium sulfate
Trouble shooting
“Compost Production and Utilization: A Growers Guide”
Publication 21514. 1995.
Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources
University of California
6701 San Pablo Ave.
Oakland, CA 94608-1239
1-800-994-8849
http://danrcs.ucdavis.edu
“Compost - It’s a Natural, A Farmers Field Guide to
Compost Products and Use”
California Integrated Waste Management Board
8800 Cal Center Drive
Sacramento, CA 95826
Biocycle
(monthly magazine)
419 State Avenue
Emmaus, PA 18049
(610)-967-4135
Biocycle@jgpress.com
“On-Farm Composting Handbook,” (NRAES-54), 1992
Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service
152 Riley-Robb Hall
Cooperative Extension
Ithaca, NY 14853-5701
(607) 255-7654
nrraes@cornell.edu
State Composting Regulations
California Integrated Waste Management Board
(916) 255-3884
California Organics Recycling Council
(916) 652-4450
National Composting Council
(703) 739-2401
Agricultural Compost Use Demonstrations
(916) 255-2433
(610)-967-4135
Biocycle@jgpress.com
“On-Farm Composting Handbook,” (NRAES-54), 1992
Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service
152 Riley-Robb Hall
Cooperative Extension
Ithaca, NY 14853-5701
(607) 255-7654
nrraes@cornell.edu
State Composting Regulations
California Integrated Waste Management Board
(916) 255-3884
California Organics Recycling Council
(916) 652-4450
National Composting Council
(703) 739-2401
Agricultural Compost Use Demonstrations
(916) 255-2433
This fact sheet has been written for the Council of Bay Area Resource Conservation Districts by Gibbs Ferris.
Gibbs holds a M.S. degree in Resource Management and Administration from Antioch University, Keene, NH
and received a certificate of Technical Ability in Composting from the University of Maine Cooperative
Extension Compost School. She has composted and farmed organically for six years.
This fact sheet is part of a series prepared and published by the Council of Bay Area Resource Conservation Districts in cooperation with the USDA
Natural Resources Conservation Service and the University of California Cooperative Extension. The Equine Facilities Assistance Program’s goal is to
protect San Francisco Bay Area water resources by assisting in effective management of possible non-point source pollutants associated with horses.
Resource Conservation Districts (RCD) are non-regulatory, special districts governed by a volunteer board of directors. In addition to educational
programs, RCDs provide landowners and the general public with technical assistance in natural resource management.
This project has been funded in part by the United States Environmental Protection Agency Assistance Agreement No. C9-999414-96-1 to the State Water Resources Control
Board and by Contract No. 7-028-252-0 in the amount of $255,000.00. The contents of this document do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Environmental
Protection Agency or the State Water Resources Control Board, nor does mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use.
Gibbs holds a M.S. degree in Resource Management and Administration from Antioch University, Keene, NH
and received a certificate of Technical Ability in Composting from the University of Maine Cooperative
Extension Compost School. She has composted and farmed organically for six years.
This fact sheet is part of a series prepared and published by the Council of Bay Area Resource Conservation Districts in cooperation with the USDA
Natural Resources Conservation Service and the University of California Cooperative Extension. The Equine Facilities Assistance Program’s goal is to
protect San Francisco Bay Area water resources by assisting in effective management of possible non-point source pollutants associated with horses.
Resource Conservation Districts (RCD) are non-regulatory, special districts governed by a volunteer board of directors. In addition to educational
programs, RCDs provide landowners and the general public with technical assistance in natural resource management.
This project has been funded in part by the United States Environmental Protection Agency Assistance Agreement No. C9-999414-96-1 to the State Water Resources Control
Board and by Contract No. 7-028-252-0 in the amount of $255,000.00. The contents of this document do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Environmental
Protection Agency or the State Water Resources Control Board, nor does mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use.
Resources
