Help!!!!

[1highman]

What is your experience level? First timer
What type of hydro set-up are you running? DWC

Your Equipment:
A) Type and wattage of lights. 12 6500k 23 watt CFLs, 4 2700k 23 watt CFLs
B) Distance from tops? 10 inches
C) Reflector type? bare bulb
D) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 23 watts, mixed spectrum, 20/4 schedule
E) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? yes
F) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? I have exhaust, circulation, and intake
G) Size of reservoir? 10 gallon

Your nutrients and water:
H) Source of water. (tap or filtered) What's it's ph? Distilled water, ph 5.8
I) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. General Hydroponics Flora Series 3 part nutes, 5ml grow, 5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom, once a week
J) What is the ec/ppm of your unadjusted tap (or filtered) water? 0
K) What is the ec/ppm of your nutrient solution? 666 lol
L) What is the temperature of your nutrient solution? (reservoir high and low temps) fluctuates between 65f-68f
M) Does your ec/ppm show a rise or fall when you do your daily PPM check? fluctuates up and down
N) Does the ph fluctuate? no
O) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you
spray? (Just after lights come on, just before they go out...) no
P) How often do you replace reservoir water/nutes? once a week

Your growroom:
Q) What size of closet, room or hut? 3.5'x3.5'x6.5'
R) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? 73f-77f on, 65f-69f off
S) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? no
T) Are the roots long and white, or brown and slimy? yes

Your strain:
U) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) mainly indica
V) Is this an photoperiod strain? no
W) From seeds or clones? from seed

Hey all! I'm on day 23 from seed. I started having these issues on day 20 from seed

https://www.autoflower.org/members/1highman/albums/first-grow/153452-imag1187.jpg
https://www.autoflower.org/members/1highman/albums/first-grow/153454-imag1189.jpg
https://www.autoflower.org/members/1highman/albums/first-grow/153453-imag1188.jpg

Now 3 days later my girl is looking like this

View attachment 154422View attachment 154423View attachment 154424View attachment 154425View attachment 154426

Can someone please help me with whats wrong with her? Thanx.

 

[alley_walker]

Surprised you haven't gotten a response yet.. My first instinct of water burn from foliar feeding was wrong since you don't do that. I have seen this exact same problem in here before so I am interested on the results. Don't worry however, there is a lot of experience floating around here. Hopefully you can get Muddy to answer. He's a gold mine.

 

[1highman]

Surprised you haven't gotten a response yet.. My first instinct of water burn from foliar feeding was wrong since you don't do that. I have seen this exact same problem in here before so I am interested on the results. Don't worry however, there is a lot of experience floating around here. Hopefully you can get Muddy to answer. He's a gold mine.

I've actually tried to get advice on this when it first started 3 days ago. The advice I did get I took and made the adjustments, but still here it is and taking over the whole plant just about. I just ordered some General Hydroponics CalMagic this morning, but it won't be here till the 7th at a minimum.

 

[AutoToker]

It's just nute burn. Back off the nutes a bit. What formula are you going off of? Please tell me your not going off the back of the GH bottles. I have ran 3-4 successful grows using the GH 3 part series but here is what you have to do. I take no credit for this at all. I belong to another website where a grower over there created his own GH formula, similiar to the Lucus formula. Follow these instructions depending on where you are at in your grow.

So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the lants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.



Edit: I run a RDWC system, and use this same exact formula. I never have PH swings or PPM drifts. I never even have to clean the buckets because the constant flow of water, recirculation. Here is a link of my current grow, if your interested in seeing the results. https://www.autoflower.org/f5/again-11094-9.html#post277156

 

[1highman]

It's just nute burn. Back off the nutes a bit. What formula are you going off of? Please tell me your not going off the back of the GH bottles. I have ran 3-4 successful grows using the GH 3 part series but here is what you have to do. I take no credit for this at all. I belong to another website where a grower over there created his own GH formula, similiar to the Lucus formula. Follow these instructions depending on where you are at in your grow.

So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the lants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.



Edit: I run a RDWC system, and use this same exact formula. I never have PH swings or PPM drifts. I never even have to clean the buckets because the constant flow of water, recirculation. Here is a link of my current grow, if your interested in seeing the results. https://www.autoflower.org/f5/again-11094-9.html#post277156

Thanx for the help man, but I'm kinda lost now lol. You said nute burn, but by your schedule I would be introducing more nutes than what I am now. And yes, I have been following the schedule on the bottle. I'm in week 4 from seed and only using 5 ml grow 5 ml micro 2.5 ml bloom. With a ppm of 600+

 

[stylez]

Hey hey 1highman. I have no experience in DWC at all. The only suggestion i might be able to give is keep an eye on your ph, and I wouldnt use the recommended amount of nutes on Autos. Maybe a 1/4 of that to a 1/2 at most. Wait on that calmg to arrive and give some. Rust spots look like mg. :smokebuds:
Lots of respect goes to you if this is your first grow and you went with DWC.:thumbs: Have you tried to post your symptoms in the DWC section. I know there are a few there that really know there stuff.:dance:

 

[1highman]

I haven't posted on the DWC section yet but will. Thanks man for the help and quick response.

 

[stylez]

No problem, thats what I am here for, learning and keeping the vibe up. Never get discouraged, and ask away bud. :booya:Much luck in the DWC section, cool and down to earth buds over there.

I haven't posted on the DWC section yet but will. Thanks man for the help and quick response.

 

[Sticky Trichome]

looks as if theres problems with Calcium my friend. magnesium def makes the edges of the leaves yellow, its not a Magn problem.

 

[1highman]

looks as if theres problems with Calcium my friend. magnesium def makes the edges of the leaves yellow, its not a Magn problem.

So I should stop freaking out and just wait on the CalMagic?