Raise Your Own Bacteria

[SCARHOLE]

I spilled a bunch (about 10 oz?) of spent sugar yeast water from my 2 liter C02 in one of my lilMotivationn clones folgers pot. I thought it would have killed her, but she EXPLODED with grow an the best of my clones that run. I realy got to look into this it was wild. Was it random? I thought I read that yeast sugar an water help make some enzyme for microbes to digest starches in soil or something, an found this......



"Bug Juice" is what the originator calls it.
He died, an his daughter took down the good drs work but i saved this one.....

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Bug Juice is a copyrighted name for a process that many scientists conduct every day of their professional lives. They grow bacteria in their laboratories. They may need the bacteria for genetic engineering or for a product the bacteria makes and secretes into their growth media. When scientists grow bacteria, they add a mix of sugar, protein, vitamins and minerals to water, heat sterilize it, and add the bacterial culture when the solution cools. The bacteria are grown in incubator shaker flasks. Shaking helps mix air into the solution. Most bacteria require oxygen for survival. Some components of scientific “bug growth” formulas include”

Sugar: usually glucose because it is rapidly metabolized by virtually all microorganisms. In the real world, microorganisms normally live on sucrose (table sugar that contains one molecule of both glucose and fructose linked together by a chemical bond), and polysaccharides such as starch (many glucose molecules linked together into a large polymer for energy storage). In order for sucrose or starch to be metabolized by bacteria, the bacteria must make enzymes that break down sucrose into free glucose and fructose (sucrase) or the starch into individual glucose molecules (amylase). This takes time and energy and slows bacterial growth. Scientists hate slow bacterial growth, because it wastes their time.

Protein: usually soy or animal protein that has been pretreated with enzymes in order to cut the protein into small pieces. The enzymes are called proteases and the process is called proteolysis. This occurs naturally in the soil. Microorganisms cannot ingest large protein molecules. They have to bring them into their cells either as free amino acids or small peptides (small fragments of proteins). By electing to predigest the protein, the bacteria don’t have to secrete as many proteases into the culture broth to break down the proteins. Again, this speeds bacterial growth.

Vitamins: synthetic vitamins are sometimes added, but generally dried yeast is added as a food and vitamin source. Yeast contains the highest concentration of B vitamins of any known organism. Feeding yeast extract, as it is called, is a cheap way to provide the bacteria with pre-made vitamins. Bacteria can make most of their own vitamins, but this takes time and slows growth.

Minerals: salts such as sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, etc. often are added to supplement the minerals already present in the protein powders. These minerals are soluble in water unlike many minerals that are found in the soil.

As a scientist and organic gardener, I understand how both bacteria and plants grow in their natural environments. Plants are passive organisms, and require substantial help in order to grow in the soil. This help is provided by soil microorganisms. Plants can make all their own proteins, sugars, and vitamins, but they cannot do so without help from their friends in the soil (see the essay on the nitrogen cycle). There is one exception to this rule. If the plants are provided with all the necessary soluble minerals, they can grow in the absence of microorganisms, e.g. hydroponically. However, unless a mineral can dissolve in water, it cannot enter the roots of a plant. It is a simple concept, but one that is easy to forget. In the lab, plants and microorganisms can grow nicely in water that has been spiked with soluble minerals. The microorganisms won’t grow as fast (because they have to make all their proteins and vitamins from inorganic building blocks), but they will grow as long as they are provided with a source of sugar. Plants make their own sugar from CO2 in the air. In the soil, minerals exist in forms that are not appreciably soluble in water. As a consequence, minerals can sustain plant life, but their presence is not sufficient to insure rapid and sustained plant growth. In the soil, this is the role of microorganisms and one of the reasons composted organic matter is such a powerful fertilizer.

From the perspective of an organic gardener, it would be wonderful if every square millimeter of soil contained all the right microorganisms for maximally breaking down organic matter. It doesn’t. Did you ever notice a new lawn that grew unevenly? The lawn appears to have major and minor gaps where the grass seed didn’t seem to take. This happens so often that many homeowners won’t take the risk and “order in” grass turf from a commercial supplier. One of the reasons for the “gap effect” is the lack of a proper mix of microorganisms necessary to provide nutrients to the seed and eventually the grass plants. The microorganisms are sporadically present because many homeowners use inexpensive “potting soils” rather than topsoil as a nutrient foundation for their lawns. As discussed in another essay, most potting soils have no nutrient value for plants. Bugs cannot thrive in them because they consist primarily of shredded bark. No bugs-no plants, unless you want to feed your lawn inorganic fertilizers from now until eternity.

I have been mixing Bug Juice for years. It is simply a variation of what I do in the laboratory—growing large amounts of bacteria for a particular experiment. However, in the case of Bug Juice, I am growing bacteria from compost piles so they can be strategically distributed around the garden. In the process, I found that plants loved the growth media I developed, whether it included bacteria or not. This media is made from common household items and is described below.

Bug Juice™ is designed to stimulate the growth of many different types of bacteria and fungi. In a compost pile, we need bacteria that can degrade cellulose, pectin, protein and starch. Compost piles are optimal growing areas for bacteria because they are moist, warm, and aerated. Hopefully, they do not contain a lot of junk, such as sawdust (from woods that contain turpentine) and citrus—both of which can inhibit the growth of microorganisms.

Compost piles in the garden should be designed to “turn over” waste organic matter as rapidly as possible so the compost can be used elsewhere in the garden. When the compost is added to the garden soil, the microorganisms responsible for degrading the compost are also transferred. This is common sense, but it is easy to overlook the value of these microorganisms in the soil ecosystem. No patch of soil is equal to another. They are all different, and they reflect their differences in the manner to which they can support plant growth. If a patch of soil is devoid of digestible organic matter, the bacteria present in the soil will not be able to degrade leaves, grass clippings or pasteurized cow manure, for that matter, if they are roto-tilled into the soil. Eventually these bugs will make an appearance, but the process of becoming established in the soil is slow. Did you ever hear someone tell you that it took three or more years of mulching to get the soil to a point where it produced great tomatoes? This is the reason we developed Bug Juice™ as a cheap innoculent for compost piles and depleted soils.

Most people have under performing compost piles, if they have them at all. So, if you want to go into the home bug growing business, all you need is some really good fresh compost, and a five gallon bucket of Bug Juice. Throw the compost, a handful, into the bucket, stir it a few times a day for aeration, and leave it in the sun. Cover the top with some cheesecloth if you have it. This keeps the flies out of the Juice. The bugs will begin to grow in the juice. After one week, you should have some potent home grown liquid fertilizer.

This is what you need in order to make Bug Juice™.

One 5 gallon bucket.
Corn starch
Bread yeast
MaxGro™ our fishmeal product, or another source of protein. Blood meal will work.
Ripe fruit, such as plums, apples, apricots, peaches, watermelons, peeled bananas or whatever. No citrus.

The Bug Juice™ Formula

Fruit: The fruits mentioned above contain sucrose, proteins, various vitamins and other nutrients, easily digestible cellulose and pectin. They are the perfect food for soil microorganisms. Pit the fruit, and smash it so it can be more rapidly digested by microorganisms. It should be mush. Add 1 pound or so to the bucket. Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug Juice™.

Cornstarch: Starch is present in all organic matter as a form of storage energy. Bugs need to degrade it in the soil in order to obtain a carbon source for their metabolism. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

MaxGro™ or blood meal: MaxGro™ is a heat sterilized fishmeal that has a high nutrient and growth promoting value for plants and microorganisms. It is the protein source for the bugs and the source of biochemical building blocks for the auxin and cytokinin plant growth hormones. Blood meal is a poor substitute, but it is more readily available. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

Yeast: Yeast is a cheap source of B vitamins. It is also a source of cytokinins and protein. Mix two teaspoons of yeast, two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of bread flour to 2 cups of warm water. When the yeast stops foaming, it has consumed most of the sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of corn starch, 1 tablespoon of bread flour and allow the mixture to sit for 2 hours. You are adapting the yeast to the starch. This is important. In order to break down starch, the yeast must be induced to secrete the enzyme alpha amylase. You want to promote this reaction. Most sugars in the soil are in the form of starch—not sucrose.

You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice™ to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil. Bug Juice™ can be directly applied to plants, trees, grass, whatever. It is disgusting to look at, but it is a powerful organic “nutrient soup” for the soil. And you made it. You are now officially a backyard scientist.

Bon Appetite.

Copyright 2001© Stephen Martin, Ph.D
Chief Scientist, Grouppe Kurosawa
All Rights Reserved
http://grouppekurosawa.com

 

[swampman]

Haha Thats awesome ,,I Visit Gil.forums alot man they amswer and Have Great Blogs..

This Is Great Hard Evidence we should Bury the Naked treasure of Food Scraps..,
I found The 6 month Peels and Shells she isnt as Close because it was Just before Winter....

.the Banana Peels is Superior ...I will try corn and yeast too lol

 

[swampman]

Flog Week 32 - Lacto Preparation
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"We could probably make it farther if we wanted to. "
- On The Loose
Lactobacillus Serum Preparation
This week in the FLOG:
*
Making lactobacillus serum
Photos to go with the recipe!
*
I finally ran out of lacto serum!* It gives me an opportunity to finally publish pictures to go with this recipe.* So let's look at the process from start to finish with pictures.
*
I didn't have rice wash handy for the first step.* But I did have cheerios!* There you go, great carbohydrate source.* Maybe not as ideal as rice wash, but it will do just fine for the purpose of attracting wild microbes.* Here is the 'rice wash vessel' with at least half air, and open on top.* I left the Cheerios in for about 5 minutes, until they started really shedding into the water.* Here they are getting soggy:

*
I strained out the cheerios, and loosely secured some mesh netting over the top so that large critters like cockroaches can't get in.* This is my carbohydrate wash that will sit out for 5-7 days:

*
Now the vessel sits in a shady area of the garden for 6 days.* After 6 days it's pretty cloudy and you can see 'threads' in it - bacterial growths.* No separating into layers but that's ok, it will work fine.* I drained off most of this solution since I'll use the same vessel for the milk, and I need 10 parts milk.* So I drained until just about 1/10th the vessel was wash water:

*
Now we add the milk - just regular old UHT processed milk, nothing special.* Although natural cow's milk would be the absolute best.* I put the lid of the jar on top but not clamped down.* This creates a seal but if gas builds up it can escape if needed:

*
Jar goes back to the shady corner of the garden.* Now wait another 7 days.* The curd on top starts out pretty thick and gets thinner, while the solution turns very cloudy white.* It's pretty sweet.* Here is the jar after 7 days:

*
Now I used the same mesh, in combo with a funnel, to make a strainer to transfer the solution into a plastic jug.* Then just pour out the lacto serum:

*
Now we have the lacto serum separated out, it needs sugar to stabilize it for storage.* I have about 750ml of serum, so it needs either 750ml of molasses or 750gm of sugar.* I had nice brown sugar handy, cost <1$ so I like the price vs molasses here.* I weighed out around 750gm of brown sugar to be added.* Here they are:

*
Conveniently I had a 1.5L bottle handy which I added the serum to initially.* After adding the sugar, the solution is almost up to the top.* Just perfect:

*
After a few shakes, the sugar dissolves and the solution becomes a bit thicker consistency, with few bubbles.* It's as easy as that.* Now I have 1.5L of pure stabilized lacto serum.*
*
What's next?
*
Store pure solution wherever, in my home office for now.
Get 500ml bottle and add 2tbsp of this pure lacto to that and fill with water
Use this 500ml bottle for all the applications I use lacto for around the house/balcony
*
2tbsp per meal, after we eat, mixed in half glass of water
0.5tbsp/L*sprayed everywhere indoors - to kill all those humid-country-tropical-smells that somehow crop up
1tbsp/L to spray plants, foliar feed keep their leaf surface healthy (equivalent to us using after meals)
1tbsp/L when watering compost piles, keep them moist when they dry out
1tsp/L in roach water, dog's water
2tbsp/L for periodic moistening of Bokashi bran and when adding stuff to bokashi bin
2+tbsp/L drain cleaning - inundate at night after we finish using sinks/toilets
2+tbsp/L grease trap cleaning - in Philippines sinks have bins below them that are grease traps that get super smelly.* This kills it
1tbsp/L added to water bucket with organic fertilizer, 12-24hrs before watering plants (usually night before)
*
When the 500ml bottle runs out, I refill it from the pure lacto serum culture I have standing by
*
Awesome stuff.* Now I need to write a post showing all those applications.* The smell killing is a pretty cool one. *You can kill smells in 10mins flat.* You can have something rotting on your balcony, to the point it makes your eyes water to stand out there.* Spray it with a strong lacto mix (5tbsp/L or something).* Come out to the balcony 15mins later, and you don't even know there is some rotting thing there next to you.* I speak from personal experience.* Hah.
*
In any case, here is the illustrated lacto serum recipe.* Please, share your experiences with lacto, what you've used it for and how it's worked for you. *
*
Keep on growing.*

- - - Updated - - -

Damn the Pictures didnt Paste thru ...
But anyway ..U can use ajar ad Here is Some.Key Measurements for using the Solution...So 1 batch makes u alot of Solution ...
And its Great for the Entire Household Huh ???.

Im Building a Veganic Vermicompostin ..
Only Alfala Kelp and Barley Or Corn ..
Grains for Ewc Seem.to Be Key ...and Probiotic Lacto Bacillis
Anyone else Vermicomposting? ???

 

[evol]

I see you're on the mailing list too. I like my pics better lol

 

[swampman]

Haha yeah Bro....damn Technology Dumbfou n ds Me

 

[agent orange]

I can't wait to make fish Hydrosolate. It gives me a reason to go fishing more! I even bought a food processor yesterday in preparation.

Are any fish better to use then others?

Please check into your local fish pollution levels-- a lot of CA and AZ lakes, mercury ddt pcbs... Find it in your fish 'n game handbook conservation dept handout usually. Lists waters where fish consumption is like 8oz in 2-4 week time... SOMETHING NASTY! Gross to compost, then eat/smoke it, basicly? But you might be getting some oleander or datura in your compost from the city lot too..... Just thinkin' and just sayin. Will we have selenium bone cancer from the japan deal, or who knows what from shrimp/etc from the gulf spill. Spills, globally, woof. I don't even want to know what goes unreported on the open seas!!! I remember dumping bags 'n bags of garbage at sea--- and we knifed 'em so the bags sunk, hide from 'enemy' ships. Otherwise theyre bobbers at sea for miles...

How do you make fish hydrosolate? Eat the fillets and hcl the scraps? Or dump on raw ground sulfer? Never heard of it before!!! Sounds like a quick compost method... Does it stink when you make it?? And hells yeah that would make me WANT to fish more!!!!

How much fish do you use to make how much fertilizer, and how long does it last?? Little go a long way super strong? I'm guessing high N and decent P'n K.

 

[swampman]

Agent Orange ..Once Bacteria And Saltwater sea Has Hold Of It who Knows Breathing this Air is Getting Worse .
We already Live 3 times Normal Lifespans Of 100 years ago and We getting seems More Bionic...
Now Seems We willWant to Live longer with Weed ...

So heres Some Fish Hydrosolate
http://gilcarandang.com/recipes/fish-fertilizer/


U read And Study and See if u Can Help.Nature balance the Toxins