:smoking: hey Bob! ...So, it's dolomite you have, ay? Are you in true soil (what brand), or soilless (Promix, Sunshine)?...How did you take the pH, from run-off? this method is dubious as is, but there's an improved method here-> (
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/#post-928975 ) ... for the moment, taking that reading at face value, you're not too bad, but how much to correct will depend on what medium you're in; soil likes to be low-mid 6's, soilless a bit lower, coco high 5's,... Now, the trouble with dolomite is it's the slowest acting form of lime there is, though being powdered will help some; it's chemistry is slightly different from Ag lime, or other limestone sourced forms... all of them dissolve slowly in water (acidity accelerates this of course), making them best for longer term buffering and nute' inputs.... your correction isn't big, so lets see what water source you have, and it's pH, and ppm or EC if you can get it,...I want to see how hard your water is, how much dissolved CaCO3 is in there,...likely, some higher pH watering can correct it enough for now,... even using a pH up product is fine! Do you have Ca-Mg? Because dolomite is so slow acting, it won't get the job done in time to be effective right now,... got an idea-- get a qt of water, take the pH (make sure your meter is freshly calibrated), and then pour 1/2 cup of dolomite in it... let it sit for several hours, and see how much the pH went up... might be able to make your own pH up solution,... otherwise, surface treatment is very inefficient because so little of it is exposed to the soil, being poorly dispersed,...that's why it's best worked into the before planting... Ag lime or oyster shell powder will work faster, and there are other synthesized products that are made to do both slow and faster acting release,...