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Advice on going full DIY with TLO soil?

Well i couldn't sleep so ;)

Well since I couldnt sleep i thought I pop back on n go over a little bit of this until i can find me vids..OH speaking of vids Albert here is the link to Humus n soil building thread for some of them videos

https://www.autoflower.org/f89/humus-soil-building-35631.html

the second post if i recall correctly ..enjoy bro!

well the awesome things about making your owncompost or soil from local means is that its controlled and healthy if all the steps are followed for indoors and outdoors.hot composting in season should pretty much eliminate bugs and various other issues from pathogens to viruses too.

ill look for my videos later on but what your looking for is a rich plot of land that has preferably some old growth wooded composting from the seasons of similar for your region..take an educated guess from the general survey of the land and youll be lightly sliding aside the heavier growth of the browns n greens away to expose the undergrowth composting which should smell like compost.

youll want to take the top few inches of looser soil/dirt just under the heavier brush n stuff.youll want a lot of it too.THEn you can take a few 5 gallon bucket fulls of the soil/dirt underneath the compost(roughly the top inch or so) to grab them trace elements to put into your baseline mix. from there you can harvest microbes from the land to literally build your perfect compost pile..its a lotta lotta work but if you have fair land around go n play farmer dude n collect some of the looser composting leaves n things and see the charts and build accordingly to your needs and wants to grow.See the link above for the videos about soil n harvesting microbe dudes n things and building your own inoculates too. with those few things you can literally make your own soil if you have fair(aint gotta be perfect) land thats been undisturbed in a local area(s) like walking paths off the beaten paths n similar..state parks(dont get caught,some aint keen to it even in state parks) are good but some dont like that sorta thing.so just look about maybe on your own land possibly..?!

and these links will provide you with the other information your looking for from pests.microbes n various things..just open up this link and poke about.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/can-raisins-used-compost-pile-67603.html

bugs in compost piles

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/bugs-composting-piles-78441.html

Microbes

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/microbial-composting-23336.html

Adding Spagnum peat Moss to your Pile correctly

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/put-peat-moss-compost-pile-67734.html

another general link for solid information

http://www.mass.gov/eea/agencies/massdep/recycle/reduce/composting-yard-and-food-waste.html

Composting fundamentals

[TABLE="width: 700"]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 2"]
title.gif
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #006666"]
[TD="width: 576"]Compost Benefits & Uses
[/TD]
[TD="width: 150"] Why Compost Biology & Chemistry Compost Needs Composter's Needs Benefits & Uses Conclusion[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 576"][TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD][SIZE=-1]Compost is sometimes called “black gold,” and has long been considered a gardener’s best friend. It improves the textures of any type of soil; sandy, clay loose or hard. Soils can both hold more water and drain more efficiently when compost is added. Compost, and the beneficial soil life it includes such as bacteria, fungi, redworms and dung beetles replenish the soil to make it a healthy, productive environment for plants to grow and thrive.[/SIZE]
economic aspects

[SIZE=-1]Farmers and experienced gardeners realize that yields and the maintenance of soil fertility depend upon reclamation of organic materials. Soil scientists and soil ecologists study the interaction of soil microorganisms and their effects on the soil food web and soil management. Plants depend on organic matter in soil for their nutrient supply and protection against disease. In fact, soil microbiologist Mary Ann Bruns explains the extreme importance of these organisms: “If all humans were eliminated from the planet, it would still be a livable place—there would be plenty of oxygen and water. But if the microscopic organisms were eliminated, we would die because they’re totally responsible for purifying our water and for maintaining the correct mixture of gases in the air for us to breathe. And if we didn’t have microorganisms, we would be buried in our waste because we rely on them to decompose it.”[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Composting organic matter to make them safe for use on agricultural lands and gardens is economically sound, and a way to cut down on the volume of waste materials at the landfills or incinerators. Keeping the organic matter out of the solid waste stream holds down the cost for the community in disposal cost.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Compost contains valuable nutrients that could replace and/or supplement use of commercial fertilizers by homeowners. Use of chemical fertilizers can be cut down to a minimum. Excessive usage of commercial fertilizers by homeowners can contaminate surface and groundwater with nitrates. Excess nitrates in ground and surface water can lead to human health hazards.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Municipalities that collect or stockpile organic matter, and are responsible for sanitary disposal, are often not directly concerned with their utilization in agriculture/horticulture. Municipalities are primarily interested in the sanitary disposal of the materials. In Whatcom County, the “clean green” yard waste that homeowners’ deposit at the site is contracted to go to a facility where it is safely composted. Other places send such organic wastes to landfills.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Salvaging urban organics for agricultural use offers an opportunity for closer cooperation between urban and rural elements in improving the total economy of an area. It has been demonstrated many times in various areas of the world that developments in one segment of a community can benefit another and be profitable for both. For example, in Snohomish County, there is a dairy farm that accepts yard trimmings and horse manure and composts, selling quality composts back to the community.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Economic reclamation of municipal organic wastes depend upon low cost production which permits distribution of large quantities of composted organic materials at a sufficiently low price to make its use attractive to agriculture and horticulture operations.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Many commercial compost plant operators have found a profitable market among truck gardeners, nurseries and landscaping operation. There is a need for good humus in our fast growing community. Many new homes and commercially buildings have topsoil brought in, which is usually stripped, from good agricultural land. The humus from composting organic wastes could be used as a substitute for or blended with topsoil now used by landscape contractors and homeowners.


Organic materials management from the department of ecology WA State

[/SIZE]



http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/swfa/organics/soil.html


And balance

Achieving Balance
At the most basic level, you want 2/3 stuff from the brown list and 1/3 stuff from the green list. If your pile starts to smell, you probably need to pull from the brown list. If you’ve got the “stampeding turtles” pile, grab more from the green list.

If the ratio numbers above made your heart start pounding with excitement, you can learn to use those numbers here. A world of ratios, sums, and other math geeky fun await.

It doesn’t have to be that complicated, though. Everything will break down eventually, you'll just speed up the process and avoid a smelly pile if you pay attention to your browns and greens.

After a while you gain an intuitive “feel” for the right balance. Don’t worry, I’m not going to suggest you “become one” with your compost bin. Just use common sense and eventually you’ll find a Zen-like balance. At least for your compost bin.


and to use and understand the C to N ratios n the like

http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.com/carbonnitrogenratio.html

making comfrey ferts


Making Comfrey Fertilizer


  1. Fill a barrel or plastic garbage can 1/4 full with comfrey leaves
  2. Weigh the leaves down with a stone or a brick
  3. Fill the container with water
  4. Put a lid on the container
  5. Let stand for 4 to 6 weeks. The mixture is ready when the leaves have rotted and are no longer visible.
  6. Your liquid feed is ready to use in your garden!
  7. If your comfrey plants have grown enough you can start a new batch
  8. Another method is to use comfrey leaves as above but without the addition of water. The result is a thick, black concentrate. This should be diluted at 15:1 before use.
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Comparative Nutritional Analysis of comfrey, compost and manure

[TABLE="width: 700"]
[TR="class: intro, bgcolor: #CCCCCC"]
[TD]MATERIAL[/TD]
[TD]Water %[/TD]
[TD]Nitrogen %[/TD]
[TD]Phosphorus %[/TD]
[TD]Potash %[/TD]
[TD]C:N Ratio[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Farm Yard Manure[/TD]
[TD]76.00[/TD]
[TD]0.64[/TD]
[TD]0.23[/TD]
[TD]0.32[/TD]
[TD]14:1[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #FFFF99"]
[TD]Wilted Russian Comfrey[/TD]
[TD]75.00[/TD]
[TD]0.74[/TD]
[TD]0.24[/TD]
[TD]1.19[/TD]
[TD]9.8:1[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Indore Compost[/TD]
[TD]76.00[/TD]
[TD]0.50[/TD]
[TD]0.27[/TD]
[TD]0.81[/TD]
[TD]10:1[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Source: "Comfrey, Past Present and Future", by L D Hills



Well thats about it i guess, if you have any questions please feel free to PM A4
:roflcry: lmfao just kidding..PM Me if ya got any queries. well as long as it aint got nutting to do with the meaning of weedlife er similar lmfao "AFN smoke out" be well everyone and i hope this is
 
Well worked this time lmfao!!

:Sharing One:

[h=1]What is Soil Pollution?[/h]With the rise of concrete buildings and roads, one part of the Earth that we rarely see is the soil. It has many different names, such as dirt, mud and ground. However, it is definitely very important to us. The plants that feed us grow in soil and keeping it healthy is essential to maintaining a beautiful planet. However, like all other forms of nature, soil also suffers from pollution. The pollution of soil is a common thing these days, and it happens due to the presence of man made elements.
The main reason why the soil becomes contaminated is due to the presence of man made waste. The waste produced from nature itself such as dead plants, carcasses of animals and rotten fruits and vegetables only adds to the fertility of the soil. However, our waste products are full of chemicals that are not originally found in nature and lead to soil pollution.
- See more at: http://www.conserve-energy-future.com/causes-and-effects-of-soil-pollution.php#sthash.neN3aaZt.dpuf

[h=1]Threats to soil quality[/h]Soil quality is at risk from a number of threats driven by a range of man-made and natural pressures including climate change, land use change and land management practices.
Human activities have changed the character and quality of our soils over time. We have destroyed protective vegetation cover and have kept soil bare for long periods of time. We also actively add nutrients and pesticides to soils and cover them with housing and infrastructure. All of these activities can impair, or even destroy, the ability of soil to carry out its essential functions.
Once soil is damaged or contaminated it can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to restore. In some cases, soils can themselves become sources of pollutants. These pollutants can make their way into watercourses, affecting water quality. Good soil management is therefore essential to maintain and improve Scotland’s water quality.
Detailed below are some of the main threats to soil quality.

http://www.sepa.org.uk/land/soil/threats_to_soil_quality.aspx

Excellent source

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_052489.pdf

https://www.landandwater.com/features/vol50no5/vol50no5_2.html
 
Last edited:
[h=2]Soil life table[edit][/h]This table is a résumé of soil life, [SUP][1][/SUP] coherent with prevalent taxonomy as used in the linked Wikipedia articles.

[TABLE="class: wikitable"]
[TR]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Domain[/TH]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Kingdom[/TH]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Phylum[/TH]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Class[/TH]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Order[/TH]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Family[/TH]
[TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2, align: center"]Genus[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Beta Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Nitrosomonadales[/TD]
[TD]Nitrosomonadaceae[/TD]
[TD]Nitrosomonas[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Alpha Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Rhizobiales[/TD]
[TD]Bradyrhizobiaceae[/TD]
[TD]Nitrobacter[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Alpha Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Rhizobiales[/TD]
[TD]Rhizobiaceae[/TD]
[TD]Rhizobium[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Gamma Proteobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Pseudomonadales[/TD]
[TD]Azotobacteraceae[/TD]
[TD]Azotobacter[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Actinobacteria[/TD]
[TD]Actinobacteria[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Cyanobacteria(Blue-green algae)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Prokaryote[/TD]
[TD]Bacteria[/TD]
[TD]Firmicutes[/TD]
[TD]Clostridia[/TD]
[TD]Clostridiales[/TD]
[TD]Clostridiaceae[/TD]
[TD]Clostridium[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Fungi[/TD]
[TD]Ascomycota[/TD]
[TD]Eurotiomycetes[/TD]
[TD]Eurotiales[/TD]
[TD]Trichocomaceae[/TD]
[TD]Penicillium[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Fungi[/TD]
[TD]Ascomycota[/TD]
[TD]Eurotiomycetes[/TD]
[TD]Eurotiales[/TD]
[TD]Trichocomaceae[/TD]
[TD]Aspergillus[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Fungi[/TD]
[TD]Ascomycota[/TD]
[TD]Sordariomycetes[/TD]
[TD]Hypocreales[/TD]
[TD]Nectriaceae[/TD]
[TD]Fusarium[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Fungi[/TD]
[TD]Ascomycota[/TD]
[TD]Sordariomycetes[/TD]
[TD]Hypocreales[/TD]
[TD]Hypocreaceae[/TD]
[TD]Trichoderma[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Fungi[/TD]
[TD]Basidiomycota[/TD]
[TD]Agaricomycetes[/TD]
[TD]Cantharellales[/TD]
[TD]Ceratobasidiaceae[/TD]
[TD]Rhizoctonia[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Fungi[/TD]
[TD]Zygomycota[/TD]
[TD]Zygomycetes[/TD]
[TD]Mucorales[/TD]
[TD]Mucoraceae[/TD]
[TD]Mucor[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Chromalveolata[/TD]
[TD]Heterokontophyta[/TD]
[TD]Bacillariophyceae(Diatomea algae)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Chromalveolata[/TD]
[TD]Heterokontophyta[/TD]
[TD]Xanthophyceae(Yellow-green algae)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Chromalveolata[/TD]
[TD]Ciliophora[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Amoebozoa[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Plantae[/TD]
[TD]Chlorophyta(green algae)[/TD]
[TD]Chlorophyceae[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Nematoda[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Rotifer[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Tardigrada[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Entognatha[/TD]
[TD]Collembola[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Arachnida[/TD]
[TD]Acarina[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Arachnida[/TD]
[TD]Pseudoscorpionida[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Insecta[/TD]
[TD]Choleoptera(larvae)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Insecta[/TD]
[TD]Coleoptera[/TD]
[TD]Carabidae (Ground beetles)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Insecta[/TD]
[TD]Coleoptera[/TD]
[TD]Staphylinidae (Rove beetle)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Insecta[/TD]
[TD]Diptera (larvae)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Insecta[/TD]
[TD]Hymenoptera[/TD]
[TD]Formicidae (Ant)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Chilopoda(Centipede)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Diplopoda(Millipede)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Arthropoda[/TD]
[TD]Malacostraca[/TD]
[TD]Isopoda(woodlouse)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Annelida[/TD]
[TD]Clitellata[/TD]
[TD]Haplotaxida[/TD]
[TD]Enchytraeidae[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Annelida[/TD]
[TD]Clitellata[/TD]
[TD]Haplotaxida[/TD]
[TD]Lumbricidae[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Eukaryote[/TD]
[TD]Animalia[/TD]
[TD]Mollusca[/TD]
[TD]Gasteropoda[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


Soil fertility refers to the ability of a soil to supply plant nutrients.
A fertile soil has the following properties:


In lands used for agriculture and other human activities, soil fertility typically arises from the use of soil conservationpractices.



[h=2]Soil fertilization[edit][/h]Bioavailable phosphorus is the element in soil that is most often lacking. Nitrogen and potassium are also needed in substantial amounts. For this reason these three elements are always identified on a commercial fertilizer analysis. For example a 10-10-15 fertilizer has 10 percent nitrogen, 10 percent (P[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]5[/SUB]) available phosphorus and 15 percent (K[SUB]2[/SUB]O) water soluble potassium. Sulfur is the fourth element that may be identified in a commercial analysis—e.g. 21-0-0-24 which would contain 21% nitrogen and 24% sulfate.
Inorganic fertilizers are generally less expensive and have higher concentrations of nutrients than organic fertilizers. Also, since nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium generally must be in the inorganic forms to be taken up by plants, inorganic fertilizers are generally immediately bioavailable to plants without modification.[SUP][1][/SUP] However, some have criticized the use of inorganic fertilizers, claiming that the water-soluble nitrogen doesn't provide for the long-term needs of the plant and creates water pollution. Slow-release fertilizers may reduce leaching loss of nutrients and may make the nutrients that they provide available over a longer period of time.
Soil fertility is a complex process that involves the constant cycling of nutrients between organic and inorganic forms. As plant material and animal wastes decompose they release nutrients to the soil solution. As plant material and animal wastes are decomposed by micro-organisms, they release inorganic nutrients to the soil solution, a process referred to asmineralization. Those nutrients may then undergo further transformations which may be aided or enabled by soil micro-organisms. Like plants, many micro-organisms require or preferentially use inorganic forms of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium and will compete with plants for these nutrients, tying up the nutrients in microbial biomass, a process often called immobilization. The balance between immobilization and mineralization processes depends on the balance and availability of major nutrients and organic carbon to soil microorganisms.[SUP][2][/SUP][SUP][3][/SUP] Natural processes such as lightning strikes may fix atmospheric nitrogen by converting it to (NO[SUB]2[/SUB]). Denitrification may occur under anaerobic conditions (flooding) in the presence of denitrifying bacteria. The cations, primarily phosphate and potash, as well as many micronutrients are held in relatively strong bonds with the negatively charged portions of the soil in a process known as cation-exchange capacity
In 2008 the cost of phosphorus as fertilizer more than doubled, while the price of rock phosphate as base commodity rose eight-fold. Recently the term peak phosphorus has been coined, due to the limited occurrence of rock phosphate in the world.
[h=2]Light and CO[SUB]2[/SUB] limitations[edit][/h]Photosynthesis is the process whereby plants use light energy to drive chemical reactions which convert CO[SUB]2[/SUB] into sugars. As such, all plants require access to both light and carbon dioxide to produce energy, grow and reproduce.
While typically limited by nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, low levels of carbon dioxide can also act as a limiting factor on plant growth. Peer-reviewed and published scientific studies have shown that increasing CO[SUB]2[/SUB] is highly effective at promoting plant growth up to levels over 300 ppm. Further increases in CO[SUB]2[/SUB] can, to a very small degree, continue to increase net photosynthetic output.[SUP][4][/SUP]
Since higher levels of CO[SUB]2[/SUB] have only a minimal impact on photosynthetic output at present levels (presently around 400 ppm and increasing), we should not consider plant growth to be limited by carbon dioxide. Other biochemical limitations, such as soil organic content, nitrogen in the soil, phosphorus and potassium, are far more often in short supply. As such, neither commercial nor scientific communities look to air fertilization as an effective or economic method of increasing production in agriculture or natural ecosystems. Furthermore, since microbial decomposition occurs faster under warmer temperatures, higher levels of CO[SUB]2[/SUB] (which is one of the causes of unusually fast climate change) should be expected to increase the rate at which nutrients are leached out of soils and may have a negative impact on soil fertility.
[h=2]Soil depletion[edit][/h]Soil depletion occurs when the components which contribute to fertility are removed and not replaced, and the conditions which support soil's fertility are not maintained. This leads to poor crop yields. In agriculture, depletion can be due to excessively intense cultivation and inadequate soil management.
Soil fertility can be severely challenged when land use changes rapidly. For example, in Colonial New England, colonists made a number of decisions that depleted the soils, including: allowing herd animals to wander freely, not replenishing soils with manure, and a sequence of events that led to erosion.[SUP][5][/SUP] William Cronon wrote that "...the long-term effect was to put those soils in jeopardy. The removal of the forest, the increase in destructive floods, the soil compaction and close-cropping wrought by grazing animals, plowing--all served to increase erosion."[SUP][5][/SUP]
One of the most widespread occurrences of soil depletion as of 2008 is in tropical zones where nutrient content of soils is low. The combined effects of growing population densities, large-scale industrial logging, slash-and-burn agriculture and ranching, and other factors, have in some places depleted soils through rapid and almost total nutrient removal.
Topsoil depletion occurs when the nutrient-rich organic topsoil, which takes hundreds to thousands of years to build up under natural conditions, is eroded or depleted of its original organic material.[SUP][6][/SUP] Historically, many past civilizations' collapses can be attributed to the depletion of the topsoil. Since the beginning of agricultural production in the Great Plainsof North America in the 1880s, about one-half of its topsoil has disappeared.[SUP][7][/SUP]
Depletion may occur through a variety of other effects, including overtillage (which damages soil structure), underuse of nutrient inputs which leads to mining of the soil nutrient bank, and salinization of soil.
[h=2]Global distribution[edit][/h]

Global distribution of soil types of the USDA soil taxonomy system. Mollisols, shown here in dark green, are a good (though not the only) indicator of high soil fertility. They coincide to a large extent with the world's major grain producing areas like the North American Prairie States, the Pampa and Gran Chaco of South America and the Ukraine-to-Central Asia Black Earth belt.​


 
yeah all in all its pretty simple to be honest. many use some soil to help with the texture of it.it can be build from various means,but to use your local stuffs around your wooded lots that have been there for several years is best..underlying pre composted stuffs is good materials to start with and over time it'll work itself out to a workable texture as long as you work the respiration of the compost heap and build it accordingly.

LOL sorry for all the yammering I was really really tired..and high sooo lmfao!! but yes this is very doable and easy..the second post(along with the first too) has almost every link and in parts to find the answers you seek.Ive known several ppl to tinker with this with good success actually. build your foods after composting and re compost them all and once youve done that they'll be ready for plants of any sort.well short of acid lovers..Alkaline are a lil easier to use in a balanced living organics soil/compost. anywho dude,hope that was useful. lots of links but they offer varied responses on the same subject and i like that..multiple ways to look at it.ya know lol !! later on man"AFN smoke out" :Sharing One:
 
Just know that small critters can sometimes get to your rice. I put a frozen food box I'd cut a hole in the bottom and covered said hole with cheese cloth. The cooked rice was laid on the cheese cloth and I buried the box under leaves. When I retrieved the box a week later the rice was nicely cultured but there was a newly made hole in the cheese cloth and mouse droppings in the box. Some little critter had been in heaven in a sweet little rice box hotel for a week!

Also know that temperature plays a huge role in this also. I'm waiting till it warms a bit here to try again.
 
Certainly man!! yeah they totally can get into your rice/culture/Myco bag O stuffs lol BUT once you harvest them and they build the proper (you build rather) spectrum your searching for in an anerobic system they'll die off providing foods for the other microbes. and even if by some chance they lived through a month of actual no O2 culturing then Hot composted in the soil they'll be long dead and good food for the wee dudes.. but yeah yer right be weary of the bugs.:Sharing One:

P.S. Im assuming your talking about the harvesting Microbes from the land bags of rice? i didnt read all the posts I just saw rice n bugs n a bag lol Later guys!
 
Yep. Of course, I'm now confused; I thought the rice was supposed to be dry when mixed into a TLO soil. Is it supposed to be cooked? He's referencing something you did in a video, EoF, care to clarify for me?
 
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