Old Reviews Anyone use--Snow Storm Ultra

I used to use it and I loved it but since I went organic I stopped. It has an ingredient called Triacontanol that is a plant hormone. It helps with the stacking and resin production.
I am now just making my own Triacontanol solution.
 
I use snowstorm and/or purple max(when growing purps) along with a product called SUGAREE(cutting edge solutions) together, and it makes the plants drink like crazy!!! I mean, water a 5 gallon smart pot with 1&1/2 gallons of Flower nutes with additives, and you have to water AGAIN the very next day. If I have to leave for a weekend, I wont use it, but it makes em uptake the feed and water like it is nobodies business!!! Try it out, for 13 bucks a quart, it is worth a look!!
 
Thanks for quick responses.

I see more to it than just run of the mill K.

Will try very small doses. K must be more important to bud development/oils than P. One thing have been batting around is the boosts. With Autos--if they have short flowering periods the "boosts" with PK could encourage the plant to grow more flowers and extend ripening close to flush time. For example the other boosters and grow books recommend applying week before flush. The other issue is extending flowering out so far with too much PK--could also encourage--shall I say--self pollination. There mission is to reproduce and the added PK could be just the stimulus needed--to produce more fertile flowers. Could be way way off. Just a thought about auto. Possible the PK needs to be introduced early--Canna Coco's PK booster is to be used at early fruiting (others say--before flush). So, one could use their PK for a few days or week at mid-flowering suspend the Snow Storm and then start up again a week or so later.
 
I completely agree with you C. Grow...about a couple things you said. In my experience the K isn't MORE important than the P; just that they serve different roles. I've noticed P seems to be most utilized during stretch, bud site formation, and the early pistil and bud growth. The K seems to be more associated with calyx maturation, bud swell, and general "ripening." This tends to be true with a lot of fruits and flowers. Long season exotic tomatoes love a lot of K. This is why I tend to avoid PK boosts and instead seek out independent sources of P and K so I can give the plant what I want it to have, when I feel the plant needs it.

As far as the encouragement of self-pollination goes...I pushed one of my Think Different's a little too hard with a high K boost last season and let it go a little too long. Sure enough it hermied and was full of non-viable seed when I cut it down. And it doesn't help that autos are inherently more likely to hermie than most photos. Lesson learned lol
 
Last edited:
Great info. Shadowbuck. Hope others drop by to read. Well stated with experiences to match.

Cheers and thanks a great deal for the ever so insightful response. :Sharing One:
 
I intend to take a different approach to feeding this season. I'm done with using whole nutrient lines and additives. Instead I intend to use an independent organic source for N, P, and K separately from each other (well mostly separate anyways). Such as seaweed (or a fish/seaweed blend) for N. High Phos guano for P. And an organic K boost for K. Allow me to explain my theory/hypothesis/plan...

All auto strains are different and are unique in both time needed from seed to harvest as well as nutritional needs. The best feeding approach involves observing the plants and giving them what they want. However outdoors in rich healthy soil there is usually always available NPK in the soil beyond what nutes are "fed" to the plant. This experimental feeding regimen will only focus on what I feed with and will place little importance on what is in the soil itself (rich organic matter, but not a standalone "supersoil")

With that said I'm going to use a general 9 week timeframe/plan. The nine weeks will be broken down into 3 trimesters of 3 weeks each as a rough guide. There will be an emphasis on either N, P, or K depending upon what trimester the plant is in. For example, trimester 1 will focus on N. During tri 2, N will be phased out while P is gradually introduced, peaking at the end of tri 2 (peak flowering). During tri 3, P will be phased out while K is gradually introduced, peaking at the end of tri 3. All time frames are relative depending on if the plant is actually showing signs of progression and readiness to start the next trimester. For example, if at the end of week 6 (generic 'end' of tri 2) the plant has not started to slow it's pace of new pistil and bud site formation, then the feeding regimen for week 6 may be repeated another week before advancing to the feeding regimen for tri 3.

Perhaps it may be easier to understand with a sample hypothetical feeding schedule. One letter indicates the introduction of a particular nutrient, while three letters indicates peak feeding emphasis for a particular nutrient...

TRIMESTER 1
week 1: N
week 2: NN
week 3:NNN

Confirmation for advancing to tri 2: Typical signs of pre-flower such beginnings of stretch, node growth, and possibly even a pistil or two. Once these signs are observed trimester 2 may begin.

TRIMESTER 2
week 4: NN(N, if needed)/ P
week 5: N(N, if needed)/ PP
week 6: N/ PPP

The end of tri 2 culminates with peak flowering. By this point, N is really not needed...and it's eventual absence will help to produce denser buds as opposed to leafy, fluffy buds.

Confirmation for advancing to tri 3: New pistil formation has noticeably slowed, maximum height is achieved (or nearly achieved), no new bud sites, stretch has all but stopped completely. If the plant does not appear to have started "slowing down" yet in its flowering, then the feeding for "week 6" may be repeated until the plant shows signs of being ready to advance to tri 3.

TRIMESTER 3
week 7: PP/ K
week 8: P/ KK
week 9: KKK

Trimester 3 ends with a heavy emphasis on K to maximize oil/resin production, overall bouquet (aroma/taste), and to pack on final weight. Once the plant appears to be within 7-10 days from harvest, all feeding is stopped and flushing may begin.

Ironically, a lot of "complete nutrient lines" take a similar approach as far as which nutrient (N, P, or K) is emphasized during which stage (week) of growth. They just don't typically bother to explain why... Pretty labels and cool names are easier to sell. As are some kind of magical, non-descript "bud booster", as opposed to trying to sell a plain, white, self explaining bottle of "high potash fertilizer."

Just my opinion/thoughts

Peace,
Shadowbuck
 
Smithee my friend... Just got home from the Dro Shop and I was looking to get some Atami Bloombastic. The owner, who has become a good aquintance, said he didn't have Bloombastic but he, as well as some other guys, swear by Humboldt County's Own - Crystal Burst (0-15-15). At $23.99 a quart as opposed to $25 for a 250ml bottle of Bloombastic... I figured what'd I have to lose? Plus I trust this guy's recommendations... he's in a bigger city with more growers so I like his excitement when talking about this product. So I noticed on the back it says... "For best results use with Snow Storm Ultra and Gravity F1731"...

Here's the link to the WebSite...

http://www.emeraldtriangle.biz/

Like you said... not much product info yet but I'm looking forward to tryin the Crystal Burst next feeding... I'm off to start a thread on that as I couldn't find any here other than this thread of yours... I'm subbed up as I'm always looking for great result products at a way more comparable price than what Atami is asking for Bloombastic. Love that stuff but getting very costly and hope this is a good...
 
I have used Snow Storm Ultra and I liked it. I forgot to use it at the end last run and had a great run without it. So,, yes it seemed to work. So,,, I didn't miss it though. *LOL*
 
Back
Top