Lol...I just bought a new tent that's a little larger, so I know what you mean.
Lighting Are hps light setups loud?
- Thread starter Surfer Joe
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Lol...I just bought a new tent that's a little larger, so I know what you mean.
Thanks. I decided to go for a 600 watt digital dimmable ballast and get a 400 watt mh and a 600 watt hps bulb to use with it.
Would you all recommend any brand of ballast?
I see a lot of lumatek and sun master brands in the online stores.
Would you all recommend any brand of ballast?
I see a lot of lumatek and sun master brands in the online stores.
Yeh those are good. Mine is not dimmable.
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I've been buying the iPower brand; I've got two iPower digital ballasts, two iPower 6" cool tubes, and I've run nothing but iPower bulbs. Been VERY rock solid; zero problems with any equipment!
Thanks. I haven't seen the power brand in my area, but I'll have a look around to see.
Thanks for pointing that out.
If I am using a reflector housing with ducting in and out at either end for cooling with an extractor fan, will the housing or the exhaust ducting get hot enough to be a fire risk?
I also saw some ducting with internal padding for sound acoustics. Would that type of ducting reduce the heat problem or intensify it?
If I am using a reflector housing with ducting in and out at either end for cooling with an extractor fan, will the housing or the exhaust ducting get hot enough to be a fire risk?
I also saw some ducting with internal padding for sound acoustics. Would that type of ducting reduce the heat problem or intensify it?
Joe i have never used a cooltube so i dont know if it will get hot enough to be a fire risk (better safe than sorry)
but a 600w will produce a lot of heat and it will be blowing straight onto a 90 degree bend
as for the padded ducting i dont know
you said your growing in a garage why not fix the fan to the filter then straight out the tent
it will warm the garage up ready for lights out
atb nudd
but a 600w will produce a lot of heat and it will be blowing straight onto a 90 degree bend
as for the padded ducting i dont know
you said your growing in a garage why not fix the fan to the filter then straight out the tent
it will warm the garage up ready for lights out
atb nudd
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Imperial Cowboy Math
About 31.5 inches by 31.5 inches by 70.9 inches
or
About 2 foot 7 1/2 inches by 2 foot 7 1/2 inches by 5 foot 10 3/4 inches.
I use iPower cool tubes, my particular tubes are 26 1/2 inches by manufacturers specs, or 67.31 cm. Subtract that from your 80 cm and you've got 12.69 cm left, or roughly 5 inches (or 2 1/2 inches on either side.) That's not really going to cut it. I looked up another iPower cool tube, it's even longer than the ones I use.
Here's a Hydrofarm 6" cool tube reflector off of Amazon that actually measure 19 inches long, or 48.26 cm in length. Subtract that from from 80 cm, and you have 31.74 cm of room (15.87 cm on each side,) or about 12 1/2 inches (or 6 1/4 inches on each side!)
So I guess long story short; if you are serious about the cool tube (and with a 600W HPS in that grow space, I think I would be,) I would shop around and find the one that matches the dimensions of my grow tent. You can clearly see between the examples of the models I've given that the lengths of the tube vary quite a bit between manufacturer.
By reflector housing, you're referring to a vented hood/reflector, correct? If so, then the answer to the question of it posing a fire risk is no, provided the other conditions are met. The hood/reflectors are made of metal (usually aluminum.) The rest of the guts are glass and the socket is usually ceramic. I have a 1000W vented hood HPS that runs 24 hours a day, I can comfortably put my hand on top of the hood and not be burned. I definitely wouldn't want the hood touching the sides of my tent though; that's just a safety precaution.
The duct will not heat up enough to produce any risk of danger of fire. Acoustic absorbing duct, in my opinionated theory, would either have no effect on the temperature or in fact raise it. The dampening liners are great for absorbing sound, but they reduce air flow in the duct. Any time you add an obstruction to a line, you're reducing the throughput. You can get externally insulated duct, which keeps the heat from the duct inside the duct. If you have a powerful enough fan, you could easily use the sound absorbing duct, but if you're using the duct to quiet down your fans in the first place, welllll... :stylez rasta smoke:
I'll second nudd's notion to fix the fan to the filter directly if possible. All of my fans have fortunately fit snug as a bug into my carbon scrubber without additional duct. You could hang the filter/fan from the tent ceiling (I use a series of bungee cords spread across my tent ceiling to help provide extra support, works wonderfully!) Or you could set the combo vertically on the tent floor with duct running up. At least one 90 degree turn may be inevitable, but that's not going to destroy your air flow, and you can always try to make the "turn" more gentle than a straight 90.
Be very very careful sticking a heater like that in an enclosed space. Is your garage insulated? As to the light schedule, that's a pretty big open ended debate. For what it's worth, I'm running 1800W on a 24/0 light schedule and have been for nearly a month; my plants are loving it. Others use 20/4, others use 18/6, some use 12/12. I'm running 24/0 for cold reasons as well; so you're not alone! :smokebuds: You'll figure out what's best for you, or your plants will tell you (some are more light schedule dependent than others depending on the pheno, the strain, the breeder, the age of the genetics, etc.)
Anyways that's just my
Hope that helps you out a bit bro! :karma Cloud: