It's probably just the wrong pH. It could be lockout from salt building up, but I'd guess that it's pH because you're not using a proper adjustment solution.
Bronze spots and fan leaf dying
- Thread starter Myskellos
- Start date
- Joined
- May 22, 2018
- Messages
- 2,304
- Reputation
- 1,752
- Reaction score
- 8,051
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Purple Chem [] Blueberry Passion [] Raspberry Punch
@Myskellos whats the ppm of your run off? Important information...
I don't know, because the ph pen fell into the water and never recovery. I'm waiting the apera pen, which is also capable of doing tds/ec measurements.
So the thing that you should use ph+/- instead of homemade solution is a real thing? I read that most of the organic ph- are just citric acid. So what's the matter to use lemon juice? It's not clear to me why the lemon juice "breaks apart" while its pure acid is not (I'm genuinely curious).
Any advice on ph corrector product? Should I go with Biobizz to use the same nute line?
So the thing that you should use ph+/- instead of homemade solution is a real thing? I read that most of the organic ph- are just citric acid. So what's the matter to use lemon juice? It's not clear to me why the lemon juice "breaks apart" while its pure acid is not (I'm genuinely curious).
Any advice on ph corrector product? Should I go with Biobizz to use the same nute line?
- Joined
- May 22, 2018
- Messages
- 2,304
- Reputation
- 1,752
- Reaction score
- 8,051
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Purple Chem [] Blueberry Passion [] Raspberry Punch
the pen you bought should have everything you need to calibrate it.. *should* if it came in a kit which they usually do. TDS meters are a little more rugged than ph meters ftmp.
GL
GL
Hi, I got my Apera PC60 pen. It's a totally different thing from the cheap chinese shit I first bought from Amazon... It got me consistent readings and you can feel the quality just by feeling the weight and its solid construction.
Okay, adversing aside...
I did a slurry test for both my plants:
Fat Banana: pH is 6.3 - 6.4; Conductivity 400 uS/cm (284 ppm of TDS, with a factor of 0.71)
Quick One: pH is 6.6-6.7; Conductivity 140 uS/cm (100 ppm of TDS, with a factor of 0.71)
I found this table on Royal Queen Seeds site (https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-cannabis-water-quality-part-2-ppm-ec-n298). I'm not sure if they refers to autos or photos.
Given the age of plants, I should have a conductivity of 2 mS/cm (2000 uS/cm), which is 5 times more than what I have in the fat banana soil and waaaay more of quick one soil. Did I do the math wrong or the poor plants are starving?
Now here's what I'm seeing on the plants:
Fat Banana: the flowers are developing and the pistils are getting amber. Sugar leafs are becoming bluish/purple and most of the mid/high leaves are dead at their tip and curled up. Also, mid/high leaves have bronze spots. Maybe is part of the "dead tip" problem, I don't really know tbh.
Quick One: the flowers are really slow to develop, probably they just take a pause. The plant is droopy (maybe underwatered, I was waiting for some tip from you!) and the top leaves are developing brown/gray blotches. Some of the lowest leaves did turn yellowish but probably due to not enough light. Also there is some here and there very bright rust spot on middle (mostly on tips).
I attach some picture of both plants. Cheers !
Okay, adversing aside...
I did a slurry test for both my plants:
Fat Banana: pH is 6.3 - 6.4; Conductivity 400 uS/cm (284 ppm of TDS, with a factor of 0.71)
Quick One: pH is 6.6-6.7; Conductivity 140 uS/cm (100 ppm of TDS, with a factor of 0.71)
I found this table on Royal Queen Seeds site (https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-cannabis-water-quality-part-2-ppm-ec-n298). I'm not sure if they refers to autos or photos.
Given the age of plants, I should have a conductivity of 2 mS/cm (2000 uS/cm), which is 5 times more than what I have in the fat banana soil and waaaay more of quick one soil. Did I do the math wrong or the poor plants are starving?
Now here's what I'm seeing on the plants:
Fat Banana: the flowers are developing and the pistils are getting amber. Sugar leafs are becoming bluish/purple and most of the mid/high leaves are dead at their tip and curled up. Also, mid/high leaves have bronze spots. Maybe is part of the "dead tip" problem, I don't really know tbh.
Quick One: the flowers are really slow to develop, probably they just take a pause. The plant is droopy (maybe underwatered, I was waiting for some tip from you!) and the top leaves are developing brown/gray blotches. Some of the lowest leaves did turn yellowish but probably due to not enough light. Also there is some here and there very bright rust spot on middle (mostly on tips).
I attach some picture of both plants. Cheers !
Attachments
Hey there my 'guess' would be its a P+K deficiency now they've started to flower..
I've just had similar looking problems after a lockout due to unnoticed ph spike, in turn my soil, it was borderline toxic, and plants weren't drinking and leaves were dying all over the place but mainly on the bud, crispy upturned edges, yellowing, with brown spots along central vein!, so I flushed and tried to bring the buildup in the soil down... now not wanting to overfeed I've been feeding micro, bloom and pk boosters @500ppm (0.5) and signs seem to be lessening and my plants are slowly recovering.. I stayed away from the calmag as I found it can do more harm than good!..
Just my 2p!.. more knowledgeable others may have different suggestions I'm jus going off my experience!. I hope you get it sorted soon as... fingers X'd...
Easy now!..
I've just had similar looking problems after a lockout due to unnoticed ph spike, in turn my soil, it was borderline toxic, and plants weren't drinking and leaves were dying all over the place but mainly on the bud, crispy upturned edges, yellowing, with brown spots along central vein!, so I flushed and tried to bring the buildup in the soil down... now not wanting to overfeed I've been feeding micro, bloom and pk boosters @500ppm (0.5) and signs seem to be lessening and my plants are slowly recovering.. I stayed away from the calmag as I found it can do more harm than good!..
Just my 2p!.. more knowledgeable others may have different suggestions I'm jus going off my experience!. I hope you get it sorted soon as... fingers X'd...
Easy now!..
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2016
- Messages
- 1,188
- Reputation
- 20
- Reaction score
- 2,645
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Sour crack
@Myskellos how are the lady's doing my last couple grows I've had the same problem drives you insane doesn't it
But there's lots of useful information been posted on this thread but its just confusing hope your lady's are OK
But there's lots of useful information been posted on this thread but its just confusing hope your lady's are OK
Hi @Towlie, I didn't manage to fix the problem, or at least to solve it definitely.
However the fat Banana has been harvested and cured and went fine. The dry weight was about 25g.
The quick one will be ready in a week or so, despite the deficiencies I guess it will be same yield more or less.
Now I'm starting a new round of grow, just one plant (fat Banana). I think I've learned a lot from this first experience. First of all that my plain tap water isn't good and needs to be diluted in RO or distilled water to avoid Ca excess with all the consequences. Second, to go easy with the nutes. Now it's 2 week old and I just watered it.
Let's see how it goes!
However the fat Banana has been harvested and cured and went fine. The dry weight was about 25g.
The quick one will be ready in a week or so, despite the deficiencies I guess it will be same yield more or less.
Now I'm starting a new round of grow, just one plant (fat Banana). I think I've learned a lot from this first experience. First of all that my plain tap water isn't good and needs to be diluted in RO or distilled water to avoid Ca excess with all the consequences. Second, to go easy with the nutes. Now it's 2 week old and I just watered it.
Let's see how it goes!
Similar threads
