Could really use some help
- Thread starter jtrain252
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@LED Borg My Ph sunday when i do my rez change is 5.7 by sunday its 6.0 so within a good range
I diluted the Mix down back to 900 added a gallon of RO water
rez change had 4 gallons of water with 3ml of calimagic per gallon then 2 days ago when i topped off with 1 gallon i added 5ml to the 1 gallon. seems like its getting worse to me
I diluted the Mix down back to 900 added a gallon of RO water
rez change had 4 gallons of water with 3ml of calimagic per gallon then 2 days ago when i topped off with 1 gallon i added 5ml to the 1 gallon. seems like its getting worse to me
Presuming still in veg stage or flower formation is not too far along (doesn't look to be a problem), consider foliar feeding. That would be get treatment going real fast and will not affect your regular feeding.
I would foliar treat (spray) the plant with 2 mL/L CaliMagic (and probably throw in 1 mL/L nutes and/or an insecticide) with needed surfactant. At 40 days, this could be your last chance before getting into bloom to really spray your plants with insecticide. If I had both on-hand, I'd spray the plant with CaliMagic and Spinosad, neem-based or other "natural" type insecticide. If residue is a concern, just spray the plant later with water.
I would foliar treat (spray) the plant with 2 mL/L CaliMagic (and probably throw in 1 mL/L nutes and/or an insecticide) with needed surfactant. At 40 days, this could be your last chance before getting into bloom to really spray your plants with insecticide. If I had both on-hand, I'd spray the plant with CaliMagic and Spinosad, neem-based or other "natural" type insecticide. If residue is a concern, just spray the plant later with water.
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thanks Rip'!
JT- yup, that's Ca defc., and I see a bit of nute' tip burn too,.. there's a surprising degree of variation with auto's in their tolerances and demands for nutes... your ppm's might be perfect for some, or in this case a little too hot, but not bad at all, so it's good that you dilaed the ppm's down some... Ca is an immobile nute' element, meaning it really can't be translocated from established tissues to high demand areas like newer growth,... it takes a few days for it to get in there from the roots and halt progression, so that's likely what happening with the symptoms now,... BII has made a fine suggestion in foliar treament- 
- which is the fastest most direct route into the plant, excellent for immobile nute defc.'s! Use just the Ca-Mg, never the res' solution (too strong, other competing nute's present),... key to effective foliar spraying is the use of wetting agent/water spreaders ( a mild soap like castille will do in a pinch); this stuff takes the surface tension out of the soln., allowing it to coat and stick evenly, instead of beading up and rolling off; nute's get in via the stomata, more of which are on the undersides of the leaves vs the topside, so be sure to spray accordingly,... do it during light hours, but not under direct intense lighting (HID/LED).... best she dries slowly, allowing stuff time to get in....
thanks Rip'! JT- yup, that's Ca defc., and I see a bit of nute' tip burn too,.. there's a surprising degree of variation with auto's in their tolerances and demands for nutes... your ppm's might be perfect for some, or in this case a little too hot, but not bad at all, so it's good that you dilaed the ppm's down some... Ca is an immobile nute' element, meaning it really can't be translocated from established tissues to high demand areas like newer growth,... it takes a few days for it to get in there from the roots and halt progression, so that's likely what happening with the symptoms now,... BII has made a fine suggestion in foliar treament- - which is the fastest most direct route into the plant, excellent for immobile nute defc.'s! Use just the Ca-Mg, never the res' solution (too strong, other competing nute's present),... key to effective foliar spraying is the use of wetting agent/water spreaders ( a mild soap like castille will do in a pinch); this stuff takes the surface tension out of the soln., allowing it to coat and stick evenly, instead of beading up and rolling off; nute's get in via the stomata, more of which are on the undersides of the leaves vs the topside, so be sure to spray accordingly,... do it during light hours, but not under direct intense lighting (HID/LED).... best she dries slowly, allowing stuff time to get in....IF i do a spray and i do it an hour before lights off. How often do i spray the plant? And i appreciate you coming by...
One spray should be good then wait a few days.
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