I truely appreciate this wealth of knowledge everyone provides on this forum. I've just ordered a PPM pen which should arrive on friday. Do i measure the PPM and PH of the water before adding the nutrients or after or both?
Dark spots and light leaves
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Cheers Haunts, all in a good day's work!
The TDS meter, which measures in ppm's, is a very handy instrument to have around, though you may not need it every day; some folks measure nute's by volume and label dosage recommendations, others go by ppm's, to tell them how concentrated a solution is; it also will allow you to determine how much ppm's are attributed to water, Ca-Mg addition (which should be added first always), and then nutes/supplements ... in the case with your water, you're looking to see what the mineral content is in there, as described previously,...yes, a pH is also needed, just so you have some baseline info about all your inputs... Now, if you have especially hard water, over 300+ppm's, and the pH is high, upper 7's/low 8's, then this will be problematic for pH control (lowering it) and too much cumulative mineral inputs,... You'll have to blend it with RO/Di water to lower the ppm's to acceptable range...
Cheers Haunts, all in a good day's work!The TDS meter, which measures in ppm's, is a very handy instrument to have around, though you may not need it every day; some folks measure nute's by volume and label dosage recommendations, others go by ppm's, to tell them how concentrated a solution is; it also will allow you to determine how much ppm's are attributed to water, Ca-Mg addition (which should be added first always), and then nutes/supplements ... in the case with your water, you're looking to see what the mineral content is in there, as described previously,...yes, a pH is also needed, just so you have some baseline info about all your inputs... Now, if you have especially hard water, over 300+ppm's, and the pH is high, upper 7's/low 8's, then this will be problematic for pH control (lowering it) and too much cumulative mineral inputs,... You'll have to blend it with RO/Di water to lower the ppm's to acceptable range...
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...looks pretty good to me, the tap water at my grow site is about this, and all I do is adjust it down to around 6.5 using citric acid (canning product),... Haunts, got a fresh reading for me? Have you been pH adjusting your water and nutes down more than usual? Depending on that soil's buffering amendments, it should start to come down in pH some, and help keep the micronute's available,... what have you added for this so far?I've been using some citric acid powder which is used for ph adjustment in home brewing. I'm currently feeding plain water and adjusting the pH down to 6.3, the soil reading is now at about 6.5. I'm looking forward now to my next grow so I can observe the pH more closely.
you're welcome mate!Similar threads
