Deficiency or burn?

[DTOM420]

@Waira @Natsu

Same two plants. Lol! Totally different symptoms from previous. I left for two days and came back and the edges of virtually all leaves look burnt. I’m wondering if it’s the light (600w 3000k LED) causing burn but it’s 16”+ from the leaves. Or maybe I have them too much P and K?

Soil pH is pretty good - 6.6-6.7
pHing water to ~6.3

Blue Widow:

Blue Headwreck:

Now I’m having a similar issue on my stunted DP Compassionate Lime CBD Auto:

Any suggestions on what’s going on here? I’m giving them a little drink with pH’d water and some cal/mag but I’ll wait to hear your response before throwing anything else at them. FWIW- I gave them a good spray with MicroBlast and Transport in distilled water a few days ago.

 

[DTOM420]

Here’s a couple close up pics of the Blue Widow’s leaves. This symptom is plant-wide - every leaf

 

[Waira]

---- looks like K related crap! ...the bitch is, both K toxicity and defc. look nearly the same, especially the burned margin teeth tips.... so it goes back to your inputs lately, and any run-off ppm testing... I'm not surprised, the soil is a TARFU, probably all kinds of bound up shit from whatever else is in the well water prior to switching/RO,... Have you done a run-off test recently?

 

[DTOM420]

---- looks like K related crap! ...the bitch is, both K toxicity and defc. look nearly the same, especially the burned margin teeth tips.... so it goes back to your inputs lately, and any run-off ppm testing... I'm not surprised, the soil is a TARFU, probably all kinds of bound up shit from whatever else is in the well water prior to switching/RO,... Have you done a run-off test recently?

@Waira

I haven’t done a runoff test since the flush, 2 weeks ago. I’ll try to get one today, at some point.

Since these plants have been in those 7 gallon bags for 4 months already and are nearly 4 feet wide and 3 feet tall, I’m leaning towards being hungry rather than toxic. Stands to reason that the soil (yeah, I know. I’m not using it any more! Lol!) is fairly depleted. But heck, I don’t know. Lol! Is it best to do a runoff test with plain water or is it just as informative if I test runoff from a feeding?

I’m hesitant to use that high number Bud Explosion right now. I thought about just feeding with the Roots Organic HPK that’s 0-5-4 at full strength. Maybe enough to help her along but not so strong to cause much damage IF there was a toxicity? What do you think?

I also have some K-mag on hand that I could top dress with. Penny for your thoughts?

 

[DTOM420]

@Waira
Merry Christmas, my friend!

If you get a chance, check my post above.

Also, I made another discovery today that might explain that latest symptom. I’ve been feeding Mega Crop by a volume amount that I thought I calculated from the Greenleaf website, when I first got it - I came up with 1.17 teaspoons being the correct dose. Today, after trying to help another guy that’s struggling on here, I thought I’d go back and check my dosage by WEIGHT. In early bloom, Greenleaf recommends 5 grams per gallon. Well, I dumped 1 slightly heaped teaspoon of MC onto a highly accurate scale I have that’s accurate to .0001 grains (about the weight of air, lol!) and it weighed a whopping 9.6 grams!! That’s WAY over the recommended dose. Then I went looking for the amount of Bud Explosion I’m supposed to use (I’ve been adding 1/8 of a teaspoon) and I couldn’t find any specific recommendation. So, it’s quite possible that I’ve been feeding them a nute solution that’s way to ‘spicy’ for them!!

I went ahead and fed because it’s been over a week since the last feeding; but I only gave them the 5grams of MC and I threw in 1gram if the Bud Explosion, which was 2 little pinches worth. I can’t imagine that that’s too much but I’d rather under do it than over do it, at this point. Could the burn on the leaf margins be from nute burn from the MC being roughly 40% over the recommended dose?

My other photo shows much less of this despite the same feeding but I’m guessing it’s just a less sensitive strain/pheno? I probably ought to just chop her and move on but I’ve got so much time and effort into this girl that I just can’t bring myself to do it. I’m going to see her through to harvest one way or another! The quality of the Bud is all but irrelevant at this point! Lol!

 

[DTOM420]

Symptoms are progressing, 2 days after the feeding. It’s occurring on the main problem girl as well as the other girl that’s been less of a concern, let’s call her plant number 2

Here’s one leaf from each plant. The one on the left is the problem girl and the one on the right is plant 2. Symptoms look identical, huh?

Here’s an overview on the problem girl and the entire 3.5 foot wide plant is like this - it’s evenly distributed throughout the plant with an occasional severely effected fan leaf like the top picture.

Here’s a full plant shot of plant 2:

Pretty sure @Waira is on vacation but if anyone else has a suggestion, I’m all ears. It’s a long story to read through. I’m thinking it’s a toxicity issue. I don’t know what else to think. After the big flush a while back, they seemed on the road to recovery but as I feed them, they seem to get worse! Ugh!

 

[Waira]

...well, what I said before still applies: the soil may be jammed up with other (non-) nutrient ions, bound up onto the various particles and screwing with uptake of others,... Never use anything but water for doing a run-off ppm test, ro/di is best because of the low ppm's, more accurate reading...
... you can try the HPK, but if your soil herd is hammered, then the organics will be slow to become available,... as mentioned before as well, BE isn't the best choice at all for early-mid bloom, something with more P is better...
... MC that's not gone clumpy from RH% moisture uptake is about 6g/tsp.. far better to use a TDS/EC meter to check the actual strength of the nute solution,... weighing it is fussy waste of time IMO,... Dosage of BE should be on the label, or at the website, or the paper info that came with it,....
... still looks like K issues to me mainly, but it's hard to say at my end if it's locked out because of the other soil issues, back to the high ppm's in-pot, or even lack of... if you think you overfed, then test the run-off, fixing it hinges off that reading.....

 

[DTOM420]

...well, what I said before still applies: the soil may be jammed up with other (non-) nutrient ions, bound up onto the various particles and screwing with uptake of others,... Never use anything but water for doing a run-off ppm test, ro/di is best because of the low ppm's, more accurate reading...
... you can try the HPK, but if your soil herd is hammered, then the organics will be slow to become available,... as mentioned before as well, BE isn't the best choice at all for early-mid bloom, something with more P is better...
... MC that's not gone clumpy from RH% moisture uptake is about 6g/tsp.. far better to use a TDS/EC meter to check the actual strength of the nute solution,... weighing it is fussy waste of time IMO,... Dosage of BE should be on the label, or at the website, or the paper info that came with it,....
... still looks like K issues to me mainly, but it's hard to say at my end if it's locked out because of the other soil issues, back to the high ppm's in-pot, or even lack of... if you think you overfed, then test the run-off, fixing it hinges off that reading.....

Hey brother, great to see you back. Hope you had a wonderful Holiday! You certainly deserve it!

Couple questions: Do you happen to have any clue what the difference is between a “ppm 500 scale” and a “ppm 700 scale?” MC has those listed on their feeding calculator as 2 choices for ppm. I have no idea what the difference is or which to choose. Greenleaf couldn’t/wouldn’t explain the difference or give me a recommendation on which to use. Lol! So, I don’t have a clue which one to use when I use the calculator to find out what my PPM reading ought to be with MC.

I’m really thinking part of the problem I’m having is too much light - light burn. At least exacerbating a possible K problem. I talked to HLG yesterday and they said my light ought to be around 24” from the canopy at full strength during flower. Well, the lights were about 16” from the lights a few weeks ago but they’ve stretched and the top colas are as close as maybe 8” from them! HLG said I have the lights WAY too close. I’m going to raise them as far as I can (maybe 10”) and I’m going to dim them to about 75% and see if things improve. The other photo, which doesn’t have as bad an issue, is shorter and isn’t as directly under the light as the main problem child. So, IF the light is too strong, this would be consistent. Plus, symptoms are worse at the top than at the bottom. Possible?

I read some articles that said light burn can mimic deficiencies ;some of the early symptoms looked very familiar!) and that it can make minor deficiencies much worse. Think it’d be smart to dial that light back some and raise it up?

 

[Waira]

.... TDS isn't universal, but EC is,...

more ! Yes, new info, new changes,... lights were too close for sure, which can localize symptoms to the top areas..... screw with that, VPD = out of range T and/or RH%, and shit will show- ... have you read that VPD article in the Ref. section yet? Very enlightning,.... T and RH% are so hugely important, and tightly linked,.... you'll see!

 

[DTOM420]

Yeah, I’ve read that article and a bunch of others on VPD and I’ve been trying to stay in the target area but it’s tough sometimes because it gets pretty dry when it’s cold and the building gets heat. Occasionally I drift out of the green onto the dry side. I’m going to get a humidifier and put it in to help, soon as I can afford it. Building a veg tent right now and that’s got me too tapped to get a Pulse; but it’s on my list. I did get some Blumats in yesterday and I’m going to try and set them up this weekend. I get a humidity boost when I water and my soil is nice and moist (sometimes just enough to get me back into the green zone) and I’m hoping that the constant feed drip system will add that little extra humidty on a constant basis.

If I can get them dialed in just right. I hooked up with a guy over at Blumats that’s helping me out to get them perfect and I got one of their digital moisture meters that reads it from the same type of ceramic membrane that the

Just got a new EC meter and I’ll try it out.