Indoor DWC LED SCROG log
- Thread starter vick
- Start date
After about 4 hours of busting my ass, transferring, scrubbing, spraying, sanitizing.. I finally managed to kill off any of that slime that was visible as well as get my res COMPLETELY light proof. Found some light leakage where my hoses were fed through.. Could have played a factor in that slime. The girls seem to be growing well without showing signs of stress. If anything.. they seem to have perked up a bit with the new nute soup.
The roots are still slightly flesh colored but they are slowly turning white again.
We'll know for sure if the res is doing well in about 2 days. I'll log again with some rootporn photos.
No superthrive or zyme this time. Just full strength 29% h2o2 3ml/gal
I'll try to upload a video of how the water looks with the pump and powerhead.
Thanks again for the good karma and for sticking around for my girls. Crossing my fingers for them as well, hoping I don't get a botched yield.
The roots are still slightly flesh colored but they are slowly turning white again.
We'll know for sure if the res is doing well in about 2 days. I'll log again with some rootporn photos.
No superthrive or zyme this time. Just full strength 29% h2o2 3ml/gal
I'll try to upload a video of how the water looks with the pump and powerhead.
Thanks again for the good karma and for sticking around for my girls. Crossing my fingers for them as well, hoping I don't get a botched yield.
:smokebuds: yeah buddy. Frigin a ton of work,but I bet it'll pay off.I know Hydro is one fickle creature man,but when something that early on is detected and fixed,does it stunt a plant in a hydro medium that easily?Maaaan, if so thats gotta be tough.I wouldnt think it would mess with your total yeild,would it? LOL! 
G
gearbear2
Guest
If you ever want to get a broader PH range and not have to manage nearly as much, Think about organic hydroponics in which you maintain a suitable environment for "good" guys to live and manage the bad guys. Throw a little gold fish in there to help manage any weird growth after a couple of weeks. Use a low salt fert like Sea Grow. In a couple of weeks, you could run a ph range of 6.5-7.6 (maybe even higher) and your plants won't even act like anything is going on. Deficiencies won't show up and leafs won't curl. I'm not entirely sure why this happens, but I think it has a ton to do with "good guy" microbeasties.
In a month or so, I will do a write up of how people can mimic this style and regain some laziness with the growth of hydro.
I will also develop or write up a way to mimic this on small scale for smaller tents and set-ups.
What is your rez temp running at?
Not sure if you would be interested in this or not. I know That I do miss the buffer I get from soil when I grow hydro and I miss the growth and knowing more about what's going on when I grow in soil. Although, a lot of people on here do some amazing things with TLO. Nearly the same kind of growth as with hydro. Def. rocks the bud structure. I just have always seen more general growth with hydro as I do with soil, not necessarily end product though. That is all skill and knowing what you are working with.
In a month or so, I will do a write up of how people can mimic this style and regain some laziness with the growth of hydro.
I will also develop or write up a way to mimic this on small scale for smaller tents and set-ups.
What is your rez temp running at?
Not sure if you would be interested in this or not. I know That I do miss the buffer I get from soil when I grow hydro and I miss the growth and knowing more about what's going on when I grow in soil. Although, a lot of people on here do some amazing things with TLO. Nearly the same kind of growth as with hydro. Def. rocks the bud structure. I just have always seen more general growth with hydro as I do with soil, not necessarily end product though. That is all skill and knowing what you are working with.
G
gearbear2
Guest
Sorry about the slime, I've seen it too and battled it. make sure to get out any dead material as that will create ph swings as it degrades.
Hey vick : I used super-thrive trough all of my grows and never had any slime.Zym + h202 = dead zym = slime. Air + (water~20c) + no light leaks = no slime. You was in my diy dwc cooling thread, did you follow exact procedure of making? Did it help? In the hot days I change techni ice 2 time a 24h + I always have 5l frozen bottle of water ( ~ 1c ) + 5l cold nutes solution (~7c). This way I have 18c always
Whats Up Brother Vick.I See You Have Been Slimed,The Post Was Cut And Pasted From Another Forum If You Like I Can Pm You The Entire Link Its 262 Pages Long
DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
When a clear snot forms on roots in a DWC, and the normal course of treatment for root disease doesn't work, you probably have something called brown slime algae, which actually isn't algae at all, but a cyanobacteria. It loves oxygen and doesn't need light to grow. It doesn't care if your res is chilled or not. Safe levels of H202 slows it a bit but doesn't cure it. It can show up for DWC growers for no apparent reason even after years of successful grows. Once it shows up it's often a nightmare to get rid of. It WILL eventually spread to other DWC tubs, although it almost never gains a foothold on older well developed healthy plants/roots.
Several root conditions will cause a slimy build up; doesn't mean you have the brown slime. Common root disease is almost always caused by improper res conditions, and they improve greatly when those conditions are corrected. This isn't true of the slime. When to suspect brown slime algae is when you are doing everything right and still can't get rid of it. People who get this try the normal stuff... More bubbles in the water, cool res temps, and h202 treatments. The slime may appear to be gone at first, but comes back strong in as little as 12-36 hours. It starts out subtle like a clear coating of mucus on the roots with no odor. Plants often still appear healthy for a while, but all root production stops. In a very short time it will cover the entire root base and become thicker and sometimes turns yellow. Eventually it strangles the roots which causes pythium to set in, and at that point turns brown and finally has an odor.
The treatment is to clean up and sterilize the root base, and then populate the water with beneficial microbes. Simply running a continuous sterilizing agent such as SM-90, Zone, ect will almost certainly end with the slime as the winner. Some people have had luck running bleach or physan 20 continuously in the water, but most do not want there plants soaking in these particular chemicals. Making a microbe tea is cheap and easy, and IMO the proper way to fight this slime in a perpetual DWC garden.
Clean up the root base as well as possible. Best thing to do, if you can, is hold the plant over the sink and use the sprayer to vigorously rinse the roots, trying to get all the dead roots and gunk to slough off. It's also okay to give the dying roots a slight tug to see if they come off. Now let the roots soak in a mixture of whatever sterilizing agent you have. Physan 20 works great. This is a good time to sterilize any equipment and give the res a good scrub. After a few hours, no more than 12, of soaking in the solution rinse the roots really really well again, prepare a fresh res, and inoculate the res with beneficial microbes. Wait another 12 hours before adding nutes.
*** The smaller your roots, the less likely the are to survive a strong h202 treatment. In my experience using h202 will increase your recovery time.
Once the slime is gone be sure to practice proper res maintenance, which includes keeping any type of organic material out of the res. Trying to sterilize the res water is often a losing battle. In fact, since most hydro sterilizers fail to kill this stuff, when you sterilize the water you are removing competing microbes and opening the field to slime. There are people who use RO filters and then run their water through a UV sterilizer and still end up with the slime. The answer always seems to be beneficial microbes.
Below is my previous introduction to preparing and applying a microbe tea.
In DWC the roots sit in water constantly putting them at huge risk for disease. Some people have great luck using nothing at all. Others find sterilizing products keep their roots white, but a few of us have found that even with proper res maintenance and doing everything right, we still get a slimy build up on the roots. This is when a microbe tea can really make a difference by robbing the slime of housing, food, and actually attacking it.
By making a microbe tea with a diverse selection of organisms you will have a super tonic for you res that will ward off nasty gunk and build up while at the same time keeping your roots stimulated and growing. Best of all it can be made for just pennies per batch.
Ok so we wont be starting from scratch. You have to buy a few products. But instead of using the products directly in the res, you will be breeding them in a tea. This way, you can use a fraction of the regular dose and make your products last much longer. Plus, you will end up with a freshly active tea that is more diverse than anything you can buy on the market.
Aquashield ($12) The product composition consists of: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. This gives you a base population of beneficial bacteria. (Aquashield can be replaced by any inoculation that contains bacillus bacteria.)
ZHO Powder ($10) The product composition consists of: Glomus intradices, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus etunicatum, Glomus mosseae, Trichoderma harzianum, and Trichoderma koningii. This gives you a base populartion of beneficial fungi. (ZHO can be replaced by any inoculation that contains myco fungi)
Ancient Forest ($14) - Soil amendment provides a high diversity of microorganisms, including more than 35,000 species of bacteria and over 5,000 species of fungi. (AF can be replaced by any earth worm casting)
EDIT* Mycogrow soluble is the cheapest and most diverse inoculant we have found. It can replace everything here except the ancient forest.
The recipe is really simple. Start with non-chlorinated water. I make 2 gallons at a time, but you can easily adjust the additives for whatever amount you wish to make. Now put the water into a bucket and throw in a couple air stones. The more air the better. You want the water to be almost turbulent from the bubbles. Now, add 15-30ml of aquashield and about 1/4-1/2 scoop of the ZHO powder. You will be breeding these into the billions so it doesn't really matter how much you start with, just don't overdo it. Now take an old sock or pantyhose and fill it with about 2 handfuls of EWC or Ancient Forest. Tie off the sock and place it in the water above an air stone, or better yet, feed an air stone down into the sock itself. If you want, you can just throw the EWC directly into the water and strain it out later with cheesecloth or even an aquarium net. Next, add about a tablespoon of molasses to wake up the microbes and give them something to eat. We will only be feeding the microbes in this tea; never add food for the microbes to the res itself. It's okay if the bennies in the res starve. You will be replacing them every few days. Now let the tea bubble at room tempeture for 48 hours. It can be used after 24, but will be more active and diverse at 48. If you use EWC you will probably notice a foam eventually, this is normal. After 48 hours you can store the tea in the fridge where it will stay fresh for about 10 days. Once it starts to go bad it will develop an odor. If you ever detect an odor from your tea, throw it out and make a new batch. Fresh tea can have a range of smells from earthy to mossy to shroomy. Bad tea smells like gym socks, fecal matter, or decay.
Initially, add about 1 cup to your res for every gallon of water, and then add 1 cup total every 3 days after. If you can, pour a little over the base of the stalk to inoculate the root crown. Your water might get a little cloudy but your roots will stay white and stimulated. When you use tea and practice proper res maintenance you can feel confident your roots will be healthy. By multiplying the microbes this way your products should last a great deal longer. Once you have eradicated slime and simply want protection from future outbreaks, adjust the tea dosage to 1 cup per 10 gallons about once per week.
If you are interested in why the tea works, or what products you may use for substitution, continue reading the rest of the thread. It is a journey I took with others to learn a great more about the tea. If you want to see how I use this tea in a cloner, jump to here.
***In an attempt to address frequent issues which bloat the thread
You can substitute just about any product you want. Any EWC will give you a good base of microbes. Any product or combo of products which contain mycos, bacillus, and trichoderma will do the trick. Don't worry about matching my exact ingredients. The exception is AN microbe products. Stay away from AN microbe products!
If you notice a dark sort of slime form after you treat with tea, stay the course. As long as you see new shoots growing you are on your way to recovery. The after-slime is harmless and will not expand or stall roots. New root tips are what you want to see.
Do not use tea with h202, sm-90, Zone or any type of sterilizing product. Do not filter tea beyond 400 microns.
If you have slime attacking plants with very small roots, adding housing to your res like a lava rock or koi pond mat will make a big difference. Place the housing in your tea brew for the duration and then move it to your res.
No one has reported sprayers clogging from using regular tea. But, if you are concerned you can also try aquashield by itself without brewing. High pressure nozzles will kill most microbes, medium pressure and simple sprayers are fine.
Take care of impropoer res conditions FIRST. Even the tea will not save you from disease if you do not have enough oxygen or proper temperatures. Res water should be around 75f with bennies. Air pump should be at least 1wt per gallon. Light proof your buckets!
Some FAQ's
Can I run a perpetual batch of tea?
No. The key to fighting slime is a diverse microbe population. No matter what you do to your brew, diversity will peak and begin to decline around the 48 hour mark.
Can I feed the bennies in my res instead of letting them die and replacing them?
No, you would be feeding the slime as well. Some bennies will live on in your roots, most will die. It is simple to replace them which we do every three days while fighting slime, and about once a week after the slime is gone.
Will the chlorine/chloramine in my tap water kill off my bennies?
It is best to use pure water to brew the tea, however adding tap water directly to your buckets in small amounts to top off will not kill enough bennies to matter. I add as much as a gallon of un-aged tap water to my 5 gallon res with no ill effects. If you are worried, simply add a little tea a few hours after watering.
Can I add too much tea?
As long as your tea is brewed properly it is really hard to add too much.
I added tea, maintain proper res conditions, and still have slime!
First be sure you are not simply seeing after-slime. (see above) If it is aggressive slime, then you are probably adding something organic directly to the res. Check each and every thing you put in your mix, and be sure foliar sprays do not drip into the res. Incorporate some type of housing into your res, such as lava rocks.
You are not teaching us how to breed microbes, only multiply them.
Correct
When a clear snot forms on roots in a DWC, and the normal course of treatment for root disease doesn't work, you probably have something called brown slime algae, which actually isn't algae at all, but a cyanobacteria. It loves oxygen and doesn't need light to grow. It doesn't care if your res is chilled or not. Safe levels of H202 slows it a bit but doesn't cure it. It can show up for DWC growers for no apparent reason even after years of successful grows. Once it shows up it's often a nightmare to get rid of. It WILL eventually spread to other DWC tubs, although it almost never gains a foothold on older well developed healthy plants/roots.
Several root conditions will cause a slimy build up; doesn't mean you have the brown slime. Common root disease is almost always caused by improper res conditions, and they improve greatly when those conditions are corrected. This isn't true of the slime. When to suspect brown slime algae is when you are doing everything right and still can't get rid of it. People who get this try the normal stuff... More bubbles in the water, cool res temps, and h202 treatments. The slime may appear to be gone at first, but comes back strong in as little as 12-36 hours. It starts out subtle like a clear coating of mucus on the roots with no odor. Plants often still appear healthy for a while, but all root production stops. In a very short time it will cover the entire root base and become thicker and sometimes turns yellow. Eventually it strangles the roots which causes pythium to set in, and at that point turns brown and finally has an odor.
The treatment is to clean up and sterilize the root base, and then populate the water with beneficial microbes. Simply running a continuous sterilizing agent such as SM-90, Zone, ect will almost certainly end with the slime as the winner. Some people have had luck running bleach or physan 20 continuously in the water, but most do not want there plants soaking in these particular chemicals. Making a microbe tea is cheap and easy, and IMO the proper way to fight this slime in a perpetual DWC garden.
Clean up the root base as well as possible. Best thing to do, if you can, is hold the plant over the sink and use the sprayer to vigorously rinse the roots, trying to get all the dead roots and gunk to slough off. It's also okay to give the dying roots a slight tug to see if they come off. Now let the roots soak in a mixture of whatever sterilizing agent you have. Physan 20 works great. This is a good time to sterilize any equipment and give the res a good scrub. After a few hours, no more than 12, of soaking in the solution rinse the roots really really well again, prepare a fresh res, and inoculate the res with beneficial microbes. Wait another 12 hours before adding nutes.
*** The smaller your roots, the less likely the are to survive a strong h202 treatment. In my experience using h202 will increase your recovery time.
Once the slime is gone be sure to practice proper res maintenance, which includes keeping any type of organic material out of the res. Trying to sterilize the res water is often a losing battle. In fact, since most hydro sterilizers fail to kill this stuff, when you sterilize the water you are removing competing microbes and opening the field to slime. There are people who use RO filters and then run their water through a UV sterilizer and still end up with the slime. The answer always seems to be beneficial microbes.
Below is my previous introduction to preparing and applying a microbe tea.
In DWC the roots sit in water constantly putting them at huge risk for disease. Some people have great luck using nothing at all. Others find sterilizing products keep their roots white, but a few of us have found that even with proper res maintenance and doing everything right, we still get a slimy build up on the roots. This is when a microbe tea can really make a difference by robbing the slime of housing, food, and actually attacking it.
By making a microbe tea with a diverse selection of organisms you will have a super tonic for you res that will ward off nasty gunk and build up while at the same time keeping your roots stimulated and growing. Best of all it can be made for just pennies per batch.
Ok so we wont be starting from scratch. You have to buy a few products. But instead of using the products directly in the res, you will be breeding them in a tea. This way, you can use a fraction of the regular dose and make your products last much longer. Plus, you will end up with a freshly active tea that is more diverse than anything you can buy on the market.
Aquashield ($12) The product composition consists of: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. This gives you a base population of beneficial bacteria. (Aquashield can be replaced by any inoculation that contains bacillus bacteria.)
ZHO Powder ($10) The product composition consists of: Glomus intradices, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus etunicatum, Glomus mosseae, Trichoderma harzianum, and Trichoderma koningii. This gives you a base populartion of beneficial fungi. (ZHO can be replaced by any inoculation that contains myco fungi)
Ancient Forest ($14) - Soil amendment provides a high diversity of microorganisms, including more than 35,000 species of bacteria and over 5,000 species of fungi. (AF can be replaced by any earth worm casting)
EDIT* Mycogrow soluble is the cheapest and most diverse inoculant we have found. It can replace everything here except the ancient forest.
The recipe is really simple. Start with non-chlorinated water. I make 2 gallons at a time, but you can easily adjust the additives for whatever amount you wish to make. Now put the water into a bucket and throw in a couple air stones. The more air the better. You want the water to be almost turbulent from the bubbles. Now, add 15-30ml of aquashield and about 1/4-1/2 scoop of the ZHO powder. You will be breeding these into the billions so it doesn't really matter how much you start with, just don't overdo it. Now take an old sock or pantyhose and fill it with about 2 handfuls of EWC or Ancient Forest. Tie off the sock and place it in the water above an air stone, or better yet, feed an air stone down into the sock itself. If you want, you can just throw the EWC directly into the water and strain it out later with cheesecloth or even an aquarium net. Next, add about a tablespoon of molasses to wake up the microbes and give them something to eat. We will only be feeding the microbes in this tea; never add food for the microbes to the res itself. It's okay if the bennies in the res starve. You will be replacing them every few days. Now let the tea bubble at room tempeture for 48 hours. It can be used after 24, but will be more active and diverse at 48. If you use EWC you will probably notice a foam eventually, this is normal. After 48 hours you can store the tea in the fridge where it will stay fresh for about 10 days. Once it starts to go bad it will develop an odor. If you ever detect an odor from your tea, throw it out and make a new batch. Fresh tea can have a range of smells from earthy to mossy to shroomy. Bad tea smells like gym socks, fecal matter, or decay.
Initially, add about 1 cup to your res for every gallon of water, and then add 1 cup total every 3 days after. If you can, pour a little over the base of the stalk to inoculate the root crown. Your water might get a little cloudy but your roots will stay white and stimulated. When you use tea and practice proper res maintenance you can feel confident your roots will be healthy. By multiplying the microbes this way your products should last a great deal longer. Once you have eradicated slime and simply want protection from future outbreaks, adjust the tea dosage to 1 cup per 10 gallons about once per week.
If you are interested in why the tea works, or what products you may use for substitution, continue reading the rest of the thread. It is a journey I took with others to learn a great more about the tea. If you want to see how I use this tea in a cloner, jump to here.
***In an attempt to address frequent issues which bloat the thread
You can substitute just about any product you want. Any EWC will give you a good base of microbes. Any product or combo of products which contain mycos, bacillus, and trichoderma will do the trick. Don't worry about matching my exact ingredients. The exception is AN microbe products. Stay away from AN microbe products!
If you notice a dark sort of slime form after you treat with tea, stay the course. As long as you see new shoots growing you are on your way to recovery. The after-slime is harmless and will not expand or stall roots. New root tips are what you want to see.
Do not use tea with h202, sm-90, Zone or any type of sterilizing product. Do not filter tea beyond 400 microns.
If you have slime attacking plants with very small roots, adding housing to your res like a lava rock or koi pond mat will make a big difference. Place the housing in your tea brew for the duration and then move it to your res.
No one has reported sprayers clogging from using regular tea. But, if you are concerned you can also try aquashield by itself without brewing. High pressure nozzles will kill most microbes, medium pressure and simple sprayers are fine.
Take care of impropoer res conditions FIRST. Even the tea will not save you from disease if you do not have enough oxygen or proper temperatures. Res water should be around 75f with bennies. Air pump should be at least 1wt per gallon. Light proof your buckets!
Some FAQ's
Can I run a perpetual batch of tea?
No. The key to fighting slime is a diverse microbe population. No matter what you do to your brew, diversity will peak and begin to decline around the 48 hour mark.
Can I feed the bennies in my res instead of letting them die and replacing them?
No, you would be feeding the slime as well. Some bennies will live on in your roots, most will die. It is simple to replace them which we do every three days while fighting slime, and about once a week after the slime is gone.
Will the chlorine/chloramine in my tap water kill off my bennies?
It is best to use pure water to brew the tea, however adding tap water directly to your buckets in small amounts to top off will not kill enough bennies to matter. I add as much as a gallon of un-aged tap water to my 5 gallon res with no ill effects. If you are worried, simply add a little tea a few hours after watering.
Can I add too much tea?
As long as your tea is brewed properly it is really hard to add too much.
I added tea, maintain proper res conditions, and still have slime!
First be sure you are not simply seeing after-slime. (see above) If it is aggressive slime, then you are probably adding something organic directly to the res. Check each and every thing you put in your mix, and be sure foliar sprays do not drip into the res. Incorporate some type of housing into your res, such as lava rocks.
You are not teaching us how to breed microbes, only multiply them.
Correct
Thanks a ton for the info, good karma and help guys. Really helps me in researching ways to battle and prevent this, as well as helps any other dwc grower running into similar problems. Maybe we can collaborate and write up a simplified sticky with a tutorial for afn dwc growers. We can discuss that later.
As for organic hydro, I've never researched it, due to believing and seeing my stones may get clogged from the bennies from JUST that tea mix that Dawg posted above. It's the heisenberg tea. I'm not sure if I can add that in with my synthetics... can I? Obviously can't use h2o2. Still a good read and method to kill off the baddies. Thanks Dawg.
Did some more in depth research on h2o2 and zyme.. Looks like komach is right. The h2o2 I added killed off all of the zyme and turned it into that slime.. Algae does not thrive THAT fast especially in my grow conditions. That slime was basically dead, rotting bennies..
As for superthrive, it's hit or miss with some dwc growers. I'm not sure what secret ingredients are in it, but the reaction it has on your res is all dependent on your nute soup mixture. I suspect something in the superthrive does not like h2o2... Will keep researching that..
Komach, I will be getting started on rigging that cooling method you provided us with in your sig. I just need time to stop at the shop
Work is consuming my life right now.
The girls don't look stressed out and I hope they won't be stunted either. They did show little growth today. TD is slightly droopy.
_____
As of today, the res is sparkly clean like a swimming pool, no smells and the roots are slime free with new growth coming in PURE white, so I'm really happy to see that. :bone:
Each and every day with my grow, I've learned something new and realized how much the K.I.S.S rule makes total sense... If 5 of my plants thrived with the simple micro/bloom formula, why change it up? Is there REALLY any necessary addition for additives that will make a dramatic difference in veg? (obv. bloom boosters have shown a difference, hydroplex, pk13/14, bud candy, etc) From what I've read, diamond nectar is shit, and I'm not really sure on rapid start to be honest. A weed is a weed and will thrive given the right, simple conditions.
Anyway, enough bantering.. I'll add some photos tomorrow. Just gotta give the girls some r&r before they're really back on par.
Gave everyone MAX rep slaps! Happy slapsgiving!
:bone:
As for organic hydro, I've never researched it, due to believing and seeing my stones may get clogged from the bennies from JUST that tea mix that Dawg posted above. It's the heisenberg tea. I'm not sure if I can add that in with my synthetics... can I? Obviously can't use h2o2. Still a good read and method to kill off the baddies. Thanks Dawg.
Did some more in depth research on h2o2 and zyme.. Looks like komach is right. The h2o2 I added killed off all of the zyme and turned it into that slime.. Algae does not thrive THAT fast especially in my grow conditions. That slime was basically dead, rotting bennies..
As for superthrive, it's hit or miss with some dwc growers. I'm not sure what secret ingredients are in it, but the reaction it has on your res is all dependent on your nute soup mixture. I suspect something in the superthrive does not like h2o2... Will keep researching that..
Komach, I will be getting started on rigging that cooling method you provided us with in your sig. I just need time to stop at the shop
Work is consuming my life right now. The girls don't look stressed out and I hope they won't be stunted either. They did show little growth today. TD is slightly droopy.
_____
As of today, the res is sparkly clean like a swimming pool, no smells and the roots are slime free with new growth coming in PURE white, so I'm really happy to see that. :bone:
Each and every day with my grow, I've learned something new and realized how much the K.I.S.S rule makes total sense... If 5 of my plants thrived with the simple micro/bloom formula, why change it up? Is there REALLY any necessary addition for additives that will make a dramatic difference in veg? (obv. bloom boosters have shown a difference, hydroplex, pk13/14, bud candy, etc) From what I've read, diamond nectar is shit, and I'm not really sure on rapid start to be honest. A weed is a weed and will thrive given the right, simple conditions.
Anyway, enough bantering.. I'll add some photos tomorrow. Just gotta give the girls some r&r before they're really back on par.
Gave everyone MAX rep slaps! Happy slapsgiving!
:bone:
G
gearbear2
Guest
Here ya go. I did a write up. You may not find a lot of info. This has to do with experience and learning on my end.
https://www.autoflower.org/f61/tlo-hydro-aquaponic-mimicry-mostly-organic-hydroponics-19674.html
https://www.autoflower.org/f61/tlo-hydro-aquaponic-mimicry-mostly-organic-hydroponics-19674.html
