Indoor Garage Attic Grow Room

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I have been vegetable gardening for 35 years, starting many plants indoors from seed, so I'm not quite a newbie. I recently decided to put a grow room in the 'attic' above my garage. I plan to grow 9 autoflowers in a 4'L x 3.5'W x 4'H room (as high as I could go) for medicinal use.

I built the room, ran electric, cut a 6" inlet and outlet hole, and painted it white. I'm not sure if mylar would be benefcial in a room this small?

Today I installed the carbon filter and connected it directly to a 600W HPS cool tube light. I'm running all 6" duct inside the room, and to outside, then downsizing to 4" with a 4"/165cfm fan. The 4" fan will be in an old cooler, running constantly, and exhausting to the outside. I need to modify and soundproof the cooler, possibly add a muffler, and install the fan in the cooler (next project).

How does all this sound? I welcome any comments/suggestions on my grow design from experienced growers.

img1241hy.jpg
 
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sounds good, i dont see any problems anyway. matt white paint is nearly as good as mylar and i wouldnt bother changing. what strains are you choosing? most should be fine in 4 ft of headroom anyway. long runs of ducting will lose you cfms have you turned it on yet? id leave it run for a day and check temps.

a hps might make the plants stretch a little compared to a mh bulb might be an idea to get one if you have a ballast that can use both. and switch back to the hps when theyre flowering. also you wont need 600 watts for seedlings maybe use a cfl to save some cash but upto you anyway all minor things.

https://www.autoflower.org/f5/what-reflective-materials-can-i-use-my-grow-room-3931.html
 
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This is going to sound really stupid but where is your fan connected to the filter? :lol:
 
it looks like its outside of the grow area(or will be), filter>cooltube>ducting>fan in a cooler i assume.
 
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...what strains are you choosing?

a hps might make the plants stretch a little compared to a mh bulb might be an idea to get one if you have a ballast that can use both. and switch back to the hps when theyre flowering. also you wont need 600 watts for seedlings maybe use a cfl to save some cash but upto you anyway all minor things.

I have:

3-Dutch Passion feminized Auto Blueberry


[FONT=&quot]5-BUDDHA SEEDS feminized [/FONT][FONT=&quot]WHITE DWARF AUTO[/FONT]

1-Dinafem Seeds White Widow AUTO

I will be starting them under a 4' T5 sometime in March or April. I am waiting for roofers to install new shingles before I start.

My ballast is switchable and I have HPS and MH bulbs. The ballast also has 3 power settings. Specs: COOL TUBE with XL WING - iPower DIMM 600w 600 watt HPS MH Grow Light System Kit #160722062856, From: hpsgrowlightstore

I thought you start with HPS and finish with MH?
 
usually start with mh finish with hps or both. sounds like a great setup anywaym, t5s are great for seedlings. mh and t5 will keep internodal spacing closer together. hps will make them stretch a little.

mh has a bit more uv which helps with tric developement i think but other than that most people use hps for finishing. hps is better for building buds(weight wise) cant remember exactly why though.
 
it looks like its outside of the grow area(or will be), filter>cooltube>ducting>fan in a cooler i assume.

Yes, filter>cooltube>ducting>fan in a cooler. I still need to get the fan in a cooler and hook it up to the light. It will be outsiide of the grow room. I am hoping one 4" fan for filter and light will suffice in a room this small.
 
there s a formula for air exchange somewhere i cant think of it though cfm air echange formula googled should probably have it if you wanna check. i think you aim for 2+ air exchanges per minute.

is there a reason you need the fan at the end of the chain you might be able to have it quieter having it
filter>tube>fan>ducting muffled cooler box>out
or
filter>fan>tube>ducting muffled cooler box>out(unless your fan is 4" and wont fit)
not sure though depends on your attic/fan etc.

suspending it from bungie cords can help keep down vibrations too. maybe even inside your box if its going there.
 
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is there a reason you need the fan at the end of the chain you might be able to have it quieter having it
filter>tube>fan>ducting muffled cooler box>out
or
filter>fan>tube>ducting muffled cooler box>out(unless your fan is 4" and wont fit)
not sure though depends on your attic/fan etc.

The room is so small that if I can get the fan outside it will be helpful to have the extra space. I have an old cooler I was going to throw out (rusted corners). Putting the motor inside the cooler with some sort of sound absorbing material (suggestions?) should keep it quiet. I will probably also build a muffler outside of the cooler to quiet the moving air.
 
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