New Grower germinating autoflower?

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Hey guys, noob question here. Growing a Feminized Auto AK seed.

Am I able to plant the seed in my 5L pot or will I have to use the paper towel method first and then transfer to the pot?

Also how much water should I put from seed to harvest (8 weeks).

thanks.
 
Hi D7, welcome aboard the big, wide world of AFN :D:

What has worked for me without fail is the "sink or swim" test (drop the seed in a glass of water & wait for it to sink to the bottom of the glass), then do the moist paper towel sandwich (to get the seed to sprout), then plant the sprouted seed in a peat thingy (those peat discs that need to soak in water to form a cup kinda thing) and theeeen, once I see the the tap root stick out from the peat thing I plant it into its' final grow pot.

On the water question.....you'll have to find out for yourself really, every plant & every strain is different and requires different amounts of water during veg & flower. There are some cheap & cheerful soil moisture measurement devices available in the garden center which I have come to find very handy, especially when growing in deep pots as the top soil may appear bone dry but a couple of centimeters below, the soil is moist.

Hope this helps...
 
Hey guys, noob question here. Growing a Feminized Auto AK seed.

Am I able to plant the seed in my 5L pot or will I have to use the paper towel method first and then transfer to the pot?

Also how much water should I put from seed to harvest (8 weeks).

thanks.
. . .
 
Hey guys, noob question here. Growing a Feminized Auto AK seed.

Am I able to plant the seed in my 5L pot or will I have to use the paper towel method first and then transfer to the pot?

Also how much water should I put from seed to harvest (8 weeks).


thanks.
If you plant the seed straight into its final pot make sure the soil is moist and i suggest putting some cling wrap or something over it to keep up humidity or you could use the paper towel method until you get a taproot then plant it...its up to you man :smokebuds:

As far as how much water..you dont want to over or under water her so you should get a feel for how heavy the pot is when its watered , then when its dry you can tell cause it will be much lighter, than you can water her until you get about 10% runoff..hope that helps bro :smokebuds:
 
fweedom, I'm going to disagree with you about putting it in its final pot from the start, and especially with the cling wrap. I've seen mold/fungi form on the TOP of soil, exposed to the air in a pot that was too large for a houseplant of mine. You don't want to put it into too large of a pot because it won't dry out quickly, and preventing air exchange with saran wrap will only serve to expedite the growth of anything other than your plant. On top of all that, I remember reading that in general, you don't want to use a humidity hood or anything like that with seedlings started from seeds, only cuttings since their leaf:root mass ratio is all out of whack, and you want to prevent as much transpiration as possible. So for OP, I'd say you can put it in the soil directly, but I wouldn't cover it, nor would that be my first choice. I tend to go with the wet towel method mentioned above as this lets you know if the seed has cracked or not, instead of waiting two weeks to realize the bean never opened. Just my $.02.
 
fweedom, I'm going to disagree with you about putting it in its final pot from the start, and especially with the cling wrap. I've seen mold/fungi form on the TOP of soil, exposed to the air in a pot that was too large for a houseplant of mine.You don't want to put it into too large of a pot because it won't dry out quickly, and preventing air exchange with saran wrap will only serve to expedite the growth of anything other than your plant. On top of all that, I remember reading that in general, you don't want to use a humidity hood or anything like that with seedlings started from seeds, only cuttings since their leaf:root mass ratio is all out of whack, and you want to prevent as much transpiration as possible. So for OP, I'd say you can put it in the soil directly, but I wouldn't cover it, nor would that be my first choice. I tend to go with the wet towel method mentioned above as this lets you know if the seed has cracked or not, instead of waiting two weeks to realize the bean never opened. Just my $.02.

hey man, yea i forgot to mention i poke lots of holes in the cling wrap..ive personally never had mold but i can see where its possible..

and what do you mean "you dont want to put it into too large of a pot because it wont dry out quickly"? why would you want it to dry out quickly? one of the reasons for the cling wrap is to help keep the soil moist.

and i just put the cling wrap over the pot until the seed starts to break the surface then i take it off...i dont see whats wrong with that..its like the same concept as the paper towel method....instead the paper towel is the soil and the ziplock bag is the cling wrap :shrug: ive used both methods many times with success :D:
 
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Either works, I have done the paper towel method and put a seed straight into a pot (not final pot, but that wasnt your question); however my germination rate has been infinitly better with the paper towel method. In fact the only reason I have ever put seeds straight into pots is because I go away for a few days and because of time constraints I needed to germinate - I had a 50% success rate compared to around 90% using paper towel.
 
fweedom, I'm going to disagree with you about putting it in its final pot from the start, and especially with the cling wrap. I've seen mold/fungi form on the TOP of soil, exposed to the air in a pot that was too large for a houseplant of mine. You don't want to put it into too large of a pot because it won't dry out quickly, and preventing air exchange with saran wrap will only serve to expedite the growth of anything other than your plant. On top of all that, I remember reading that in general, you don't want to use a humidity hood or anything like that with seedlings started from seeds, only cuttings since their leaf:root mass ratio is all out of whack, and you want to prevent as much transpiration as possible. So for OP, I'd say you can put it in the soil directly, but I wouldn't cover it, nor would that be my first choice. I tend to go with the wet towel method mentioned above as this lets you know if the seed has cracked or not, instead of waiting two weeks to realize the bean never opened. Just my $.02.

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Im gonna disagree with YDKM, I use the method below and get about 100%, 95% of the time.


Start like this with the lid on, moist soil. burry seed direct to final pot 1/2inch deep, I mist inside the dome 3 to 5 times a day. Whats important is to keep your temps up 80 to 90 Deg. works well for me.
Germanation 001.jpg

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Once they sprout, I take the lid off the dome, and leave the dome for another day. Then pull the dome off and mist 5 to 8 times a day for around 2 weeks or untill you think they won't float out.

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every thing below was done with this method, and I got 100% germ with every pot you see?
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This is my 2 cents, do what you will with it.
 
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Either way works I planted 4 straight into soil all four sprouted and are doing good 3 gallon airports and promix no seed soaking. 3 sweet seed strains. And one of my own fem crosses. All are doing very well. I also did a few straight to final pot from seed, with 100% germ rate both runs. But I never put plastic or anything over the tops, just give the soil 3 squirts of water from a spray bottle. 3xs a day until sprout. Spraying directly where the seed is planted
 
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