ok guys here is the setup for nutes. I use the gh flora series 3 part system as per chart with some adjustments at first. basically not using full strength till its built up over a couple weeks. I also have gh ph up and down. I do use to adjust nute water. the one question I cant get a answer on due to all do it differently is should it be nutes. wait a day. then plain water. wait till dryish then nutes again?
Indoor i think she is ready to cleanse
- Thread starter flynfish
- Start date
Trapper
Rocky Mountain...High
To a certain extent, interval (and therefore solution concentration) is dependent on how fast the pot (container, not plant) is drying...
But yes, it's usually the case that you do feeds then waters then feeds again. But I would say that you want to wait for the pot to get dry/light (weight)
for each. Feed, then let it dry out to where the pot is perceivably light, then water...wait for it to get light/dry, then back to feed.
The feeding schedules usually indicate how much nutrients the plant should get in a given week, so you sort of have to "re-calculate" for the number
of times you are feeding in a week. At least that's what I do.
But I don't use strictly water on the "down" days....I still add maintenance items and pH buffer. My water is 7.4 pH out of the spigot.
I add CaMg, Armor Si, root health (Boomerang and either Kangaroots or Microbe Brew in my case) and a touch of Big Bloom to my
"waters" and buffer to my desired range. I just don't add in the veg/bloom/finishing nutrients to those.
A little molasses won't hurt either...keeps the micro-herd in the soil happy with those carbs and sugars
My 2 cents.
But yes, it's usually the case that you do feeds then waters then feeds again. But I would say that you want to wait for the pot to get dry/light (weight)
for each. Feed, then let it dry out to where the pot is perceivably light, then water...wait for it to get light/dry, then back to feed.
The feeding schedules usually indicate how much nutrients the plant should get in a given week, so you sort of have to "re-calculate" for the number
of times you are feeding in a week. At least that's what I do.
But I don't use strictly water on the "down" days....I still add maintenance items and pH buffer. My water is 7.4 pH out of the spigot.
I add CaMg, Armor Si, root health (Boomerang and either Kangaroots or Microbe Brew in my case) and a touch of Big Bloom to my
"waters" and buffer to my desired range. I just don't add in the veg/bloom/finishing nutrients to those.
A little molasses won't hurt either...keeps the micro-herd in the soil happy with those carbs and sugars
My 2 cents.
Trapper
Rocky Mountain...High
AN pH Perfect is wonderful stuff....and they know it by the way it's priced
Dutch Pro carries an "Autoflower Specific" line of nutes (also very expensive) which seems to be
yielding nice results, but some speculate that it's just diluted regular Dutch Pro nutes.
From what I've read, nothing at all wrong with what you're running
I know almost nothing about synthetic nutes but if I were to switch to that side I would follow Tang's feeding schedule and the products he uses. The results speak for themselves (but also not everyone can afford to buy all those nutes up front).
ok guys heres an update I did a partial cleanse so I got about 20% runoff. and now the ph went up to a perfect 6. so its on its way up. and she actually looks like she fattened up a little maybe she was locked up. I need to get a scope for trichrome checking was looking at a carson 60 to 100x scope. about the same specs as 420 scope any input.
Trapper
Rocky Mountain...High
Molasses is generally used as a maintenance item to feed carbs and sugars to the "micro herd" of beneficial fungi in the soil (They aid the root mass with uptake)
So it may not be needed this go around, but you can put a little in if you want
It's a good source for minerals while finishing the cleanse, I guess.Make sure to get the unsulphured kind.
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