Live Stoner Chat Live Stoner Chat - Jul-Sep '25

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We got life got 7 of 8 sprouts up :pass:

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I plan on going with galvanized steel fence posts, with u-brackets attached to traditional wood fencing, once it’s time to replace….that way the posts will last forever, and I can just replace any wood pieces as needed…. Anything I build has to withstand the wind, as well as the sun….so I think this is a good option….
Steel is really expensive, kind of ugly if you get that side of the fence and still needs concrete to set properly depending on your soil type. You can get a good pressure treated 4x4x8' post, two 60# bags of concrete and 25# of gravel for less than just the steel post. Start with a 3' deep hole 12" dimeter for the line poles. fill the bottom of the hole with 6" of crushed rock. Go 6" deeper and 12" of gravel if you have clay soil that does not drain well. Then fill the hole with the post that has been tared up to the top of the concrete line centered and resting on the gravel. Pour the concrete 4" above ground level and dome the cement so rain water runs away from the post. Water is your enemy. Save the pickets from the old fence to make forms for a concrete curbing to run the entire length of the fence so the bottom of the pickets are never in standing water and you do not need to weed whack around it. Use 6x6x10'corner posts sunk another foot deeper. This framework will last 30+ years.

If you need to cobble shit together to hold up what you have, driven metal posts work well for that
well, it def ain't the prettiest sight in the world :rofl: :nono:, but it'z not hurtin as bad today....at least so far....fixin to hafta put it in a shoe to go out in the 93 deg heat & try to do some more work on the project i'm workin on, so....fingerz crossed :shrug: ppp
Good luck 🍀🍀🍀
 
well, it def ain't the prettiest sight in the world :rofl: :nono:, but it'z not hurtin as bad today....at least so far....fixin to hafta put it in a shoe to go out in the 93 deg heat & try to do some more work on the project i'm workin on, so....fingerz crossed :shrug: ppp
Whatcha working on?
:pass:
 
Steel is really expensive, kind of ugly if you get that side of the fence and still needs concrete to set properly depending on your soil type. You can get a good pressure treated 4x4x8' post, two 60# bags of concrete and 25# of gravel for less than just the steel post. Start with a 3' deep hole 12" dimeter for the line poles. fill the bottom of the hole with 6" of crushed rock. Go 6" deeper and 12" of gravel if you have clay soil that does not drain well. Then fill the hole with the post that has been tared up to the top of the concrete line centered and resting on the gravel. Pour the concrete 4" above ground level and dome the cement so rain water runs away from the post. Water is your enemy. Save the pickets from the old fence to make forms for a concrete curbing to run the entire length of the fence so the bottom of the pickets are never in standing water and you do not need to weed whack around it. Use 6x6x10'corner posts sunk another foot deeper. This framework will last 30+ years.

If you need to cobble shit together to hold up what you have, driven metal posts work well for that

Good luck 🍀🍀🍀
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I have some really dry trimmings and I'm getting ready to decarb to make some Green dragon tincture. What do you guys decard at? I usually go with 240F for about 40 mins. But the trim is pretty dry. Less heat for longer or same heat for less time?
 
I have some really dry trimmings and I'm getting ready to decarb to make some Green dragon tincture. What do you guys decard at? I usually go with 240F for about 40 mins. But the trim is pretty dry. Less heat for longer or same heat for less time?
Do your usual decarb process…. The moisture content of the leaf material is irrelevant….the thc is what has to shed the carbon ring in order to become active….the time at temperature is what is needed….
 
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