Grow Mediums Need a way to circulate water in autopot res that does not change pH

Why do you think a water pump raises pH? Change in pH requires change in the salts/ions/EC/ppm of the fluid. How does simply mixing water raise (or lower) its pH? Theoretically, mixing water, if anything, should lower its pH, from dissolved CO2 forming carbonic acid; while mixing also raises water temperature.

More likely if you are seeing shifts it pH, it is from microbial metabolism and/or feed nutrients chemically reacting or breaking-down.
 
Why do you think a water pump raises pH? Change in pH requires change in the salts/ions/EC/ppm of the fluid. How does simply mixing water raise (or lower) its pH? Theoretically, mixing water, if anything, should lower its pH, from dissolved CO2 forming carbonic acid; while mixing also raises water temperature.

More likely if you are seeing shifts it pH, it is from microbial metabolism and/or feed nutrients chemically reacting or breaking-down.

Beats me. I have no idea. I'm in IT not agriculture. I thought I read somewhere that oxygen from an air pump might cause this. Not sure what is happening with then non-air water circulating pump. But I bought one yesterday, installed in the AM and at night PH drifted up from 6.5 to 7.1. So I downed back to 6.5 and checked this morning and boom its back up to 7.
 
I suggest you address the chemical, physical and microbial aspects of your reservoir.
What nutes are in the reservoir? Obviously, you can't have organic stuff that will ferment, be food for fungi/mold or bacteria.
What temperature is the reservoir? Constant?
Are there signs of fermentation, microbial action, such as any smells, bubbles, clear solution turning cloudy, etc.
Is the reservoir 100% protected from light (algae growth)?
How often is the reservoir changed and/or topped-off?
What remains when you empty the reservoir? Deposits (crystalline?; soluble or insoluble?), slime (from microbial activity), etc.?
 
I suggest you address the chemical, physical and microbial aspects of your reservoir.
What nutes are in the reservoir? Obviously, you can't have organic stuff that will ferment, be food for fungi/mold or bacteria.
What temperature is the reservoir? Constant?
Are there signs of fermentation, microbial action, such as any smells, bubbles, clear solution turning cloudy, etc.
Is the reservoir 100% protected from light (algae growth)?
How often is the reservoir changed and/or topped-off?
What remains when you empty the reservoir? Deposits (crystalline?; soluble or insoluble?), slime (from microbial activity), etc.?

I am pretty sure this is related to the pump. I removed it and so far pH is stable. temp of res is flat. it's greenleaf nutes MC and SC and BE. no algea. the res is dark and cool. res topped up every 3 days.
 
SC (Sweet Candy) is "several different types of carbo [sugars] sources, 20 amino acids, 70+ vitamins and minerals..." Sounds like perfect culture media for fungi/mold and bacteria. You can check with the manufacturer, but I would think you don't want to add carbs to nutrient reservoirs.
 
The problem I had with a water pump was I purchased one that was way too big and it heated up the reservoir something terrible. I’m no expert but the rise in temperature was affecting something causing the pH to become unstable. Once I gave up the idea of moving it around, the pH drift was almost nil. I just manually stir the reservoir once a day when checking it.

I do try and wash out my reservoir, trays, valves, and lines at least once every 10 days if not once a week which eliminates a lot of the minor issues with autopots. Unless I’m going to be away I try to keep the amount in the rez down to a weeks supply. Although, this might be counterproductive since it seems the fuller the rez is the less it drifts. Again, not an expert but some observations I have noted while using autopots.
 
The problem I had with a water pump was I purchased one that was way too big and it heated up the reservoir something terrible. I’m no expert but the rise in temperature was affecting something causing the pH to become unstable. Once I gave up the idea of moving it around, the pH drift was almost nil. I just manually stir the reservoir once a day when checking it.

I do try and wash out my reservoir, trays, valves, and lines at least once every 10 days if not once a week which eliminates a lot of the minor issues with autopots. Unless I’m going to be away I try to keep the amount in the rez down to a weeks supply. Although, this might be counterproductive since it seems the fuller the rez is the less it drifts. Again, not an expert but some observations I have noted while using autopots.

I stopped using it. Might as well just do you like you do.
 
How did that work out for ya @lunarman? Doing a 3 plant auto pot run right away, and just getting all my shit straight.


Easy smoking! [emoji869]

Hey GG. This is an older thread you dug up. In the end I think it comes down to the nutes and how PH stable they are in solution. Some can drift more than others. So I mix up 5 gallon buckets with nutes then ph up/down to the desired value. Then I let that sit for a day and then check PH the next day. RIght now my PH is stable with the nutes I'm using so I don't see any drift any more. Whatever it was when I mixed it is the same the next day. Then that can go in the res.

I have not used a bubbler stone or a circulating pump in probably a year and for me personally I'd never use that type of device again. I believe they dont' add any value to a grow and they affect PH too much.

Good luck with the autopots and getting things ready. There is a lot of users on this board that will help you so you're in good hands.
 
Back
Top