need help with huge northern light lady

[lieinlarry]

..let's see what that pH is, and go from there,... I'm seeing definite K issues starting (yellowing/browning of margin "teeth")... the deal with pH is to determine if you have a simple lack-of defc's happening, or a pH lock-out of nute elements, which means they're there, but not in absorbable forms,... with K, symptoms can be more tricky, as the sings for K-toxicity are similar... what's you dosage conc. and feed frequency? There is a possibility that there's a cumulative salt build-up in the soil, which will also mess with pH and nute availability... lastly, make sure you pH meter is freshly calibrated!

Now that I know the soil ph is low do I just flush with high ph water or flush with my normal 6.5

 

[Waira]

:smoking: L'-- Micro refers to micronutrients, elements needed in critical roles, but in only in very small amounts... Fe, Zn, Cu, Mo, Mn, B, Cl are examples... I don't see any symptoms of their defc's though fortunately!
good on the calibration; did you use this run-off method and calculation? testing direct run-off won't give an accurate pH, too many things can skew the results,... this method helps improve on there inherent measurement errors... it's an estimation only at best; nothing beats direct in-soil measurements, for the money, the Accurate 8 soil pH probe is the ticket! hsoillong probe is the A8 model)..https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/#post-928975

.. assuming at least that the soil is too acidic-- though by calculation your soil would be about 4.4! this can't be right, or you'd have a smoking wreckage in that pot- ... but yes, a flush, using at least 3x the pot volume of about 7.0 water, with some hardness (ppms) in it will help remove excess nute build up and carry away acidic elements... it's the CaCO3 in the water that helps buffer pH , plus whatever lime source is in the soil (if any, or may be depleted)... you can test the run-off from flushing as you go, to see how it's progressing.. always collect ina clean container... also, on the last pour, make a mild nute soln., about 1/4 strength for your nutes + Ca-Mg, so as to not induce potential further defc.'s!

 

[lieinlarry]

:smoking: L'-- Micro refers to micronutrients, elements needed in critical roles, but in only in very small amounts... Fe, Zn, Cu, Mo, Mn, B, Cl are examples... I don't see any symptoms of their defc's though fortunately!
good on the calibration; did you use this run-off method and calculation? testing direct run-off won't give an accurate pH, too many things can skew the results,... this method helps improve on there inherent measurement errors... it's an estimation only at best; nothing beats direct in-soil measurements, for the money, the Accurate 8 soil pH probe is the ticket! hsoillong probe is the A8 model)..https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/#post-928975

.. assuming at least that the soil is too acidic-- though by calculation your soil would be about 4.4! this can't be right, or you'd have a smoking wreckage in that pot- ... but yes, a flush, using at least 3x the pot volume of about 7.0 water, with some hardness (ppms) in it will help remove excess nute build up and carry away acidic elements... it's the CaCO3 in the water that helps buffer pH , plus whatever lime source is in the soil (if any, or may be depleted)... you can test the run-off from flushing as you go, to see how it's progressing.. always collect ina clean container... also, on the last pour, make a mild nute soln., about 1/4 strength for your nutes + Ca-Mg, so as to not induce potential further defc.'s!

Thank you for the time you put into my thread, I thought I did the test rite but maybe I didnt clean the catch plate enough I will do test again as soon as things dry out a bit, also things seem to have stopped getting worse which is great but if I dont figure out what was wrong ill never learn or get better, I hope that it is just the soil ph and the flush fixed it which means I didnt do anything wrong lol,only time will tell. One quick question though if you dont mind, the girls on the side that has a t5 on it all have greener more lush leaves and much much more frost on them then the girls on the side that only has the hps light on it, this is the second grow with these same results

 

[Waira]

Well, unless you catch container was dirty (some folks take it right from the saucer, already loaded with run-off residues and get wacko-off readings), it'll be close enough,... It's a likely bet it was too acidic in there, so no need to put them through another run-off test which is a stress of it's own in a way,... good to hear progressions have slowed/halted, a good sign!
Huh, I would have expected the reverse on those light types- .. unless the HPS bulb is older, and losing intensity and spectral outputs,... could be just a pheno thing, and not necessarily light related,...

 

[lieinlarry]

Well, unless you catch container was dirty (some folks take it right from the saucer, already loaded with run-off residues and get wacko-off readings), it'll be close enough,... It's a likely bet it was too acidic in there, so no need to put them through another run-off test which is a stress of it's own in a way,... good to hear progressions have slowed/halted, a good sign!
Huh, I would have expected the reverse on those light types- .. unless the HPS bulb is older, and losing intensity and spectral outputs,... could be just a pheno thing, and not necessarily light related,...

Wow so the hps should put out more resin than the t5, the resin out put isnt even close
The t5 really brings out the frost and dark green leaves, the buds are much smaller and far behind but the frost is insane,I will get some pics up asap. I didnt know that it was strange maybe I figured out a way to increase resin production while useing hps lights. I assumed that there was an explanation for it. Now I feel I have to experiment