All good stuff here already & I agree toward light bleaching. But to be safe, is there any chance there was water on those lower leaves, like maybe the plant was misted? Do you have a circulating fan blowing across the plant? Not only does this prevent condensation & help with excess light heat, but the gentle sway of the breeze acts to strengthen the main trunk of the new baby.
As to the calcium idea, if you are NOT using RO water then AN is probably right. Most "hard" water is that way due to dissolved calcium, & to a bit lesser extent magnesium, in the water supply. Under that scenario the additional cal-mag in your nutes should be enough. But if you're on RO, or the absolute worst - softened water - then the AN bases won't have enough Calcium. 4mL per gallon is a sweet zone (1mL / liter if you're on that side of the pond) for RO. As to calcium deficiency symptoms, that normally shows up as small rust colored spots splattered across the insides of the leaves that have been receiving the most light. In your pic, it looks like only the first true leaves on your plant were affected. So either light bleaching; or a normal N deficiency on the first leaves of the plant as it matures. Those always die off as the plant starts its vertical growth.
Back to my softened water comment - salt (or potassium chloride) based water softeners remove virtually all the calcium and magnesium from hard water, without really lowering the overall ppm of your water. This causes cal-mag deficiencies if not replenished. Then if you DO replenish the Cal-mag in the softened water, your basic water ppm's go so high that it fools you into underfeeding with N-P-K based nutes. You could measure 500-600ppm (500-scale / 1.0 - 1.2 ec) with just your base softened water before any N-P-K is added.
Just my thoughts, hope you find something helpful here.