Can someone point me in the right direction to understand PPM & EC and why they are important(thread maybe). I'm on Day 39 and have not checked either the PPM or the EC. What kind of problem could this present "if" I were to go the whole grow without checking either one?
Grow Mediums PPM & EC question
- Thread starter TXBudz75
- Start date
OK, still trying to wrap my head around this..
So the more nutes you put in, the higher the PPM? and how do you adjust it/ Just add more or less nutes?
:smokebuds:
toke
AFN High Team Leader
I use GH nutes and PH drops and just follow the direction on the label. I try to keep things as KISS as possible in my old age, but I never over nute or push the girls to the max nutes. you should ck out the meters and how to use them so you can make the right choice for you. the answer to your q's is yes add more or less.
TOKE OUT
TOKE OUT
Knowing ppm and ph is very important if you want to maximize your quality and yield. Without a trained eye it can be extremely difficult to determine nutrient deficiencies. Having ppm and ph meters allows you to control two additional variables. I.e., if plant acting screwy due to ph imbalance, and you have no ph testing abilities, you would chase your tail for a while trying to guess what the problem is. Growing marijuana is largely about giving the plant exactly what it wants at all stages of its life, including nutrient levels and pH.
It helps to realise ppm and ec are just measurements factors for the same thing [like *F and *C both measure temp]....the strength of the soluble's in the water...think of a cup of instant coffee....some people like a level spoon of coffee....some like a heaped spoon....some even like 2 spoons of coffee...if it's too strong it can be diluted by adding more water....too weak, it can be strengthened by adding more coffee.
finishing a grow without a ppm/ec meter is possible, but it's like juggling bricks...always a chance of something bad happening...it CAN be done, but is still risky.
lights, fans, carbon filter or equivalent, ph and ppm/ec meters are an essential bit of kit...worth getting ....that being said, I grew for my first 3 years without a ph or ppm/ec meter so it is possible....
TLBWP
finishing a grow without a ppm/ec meter is possible, but it's like juggling bricks...always a chance of something bad happening...it CAN be done, but is still risky.
lights, fans, carbon filter or equivalent, ph and ppm/ec meters are an essential bit of kit...worth getting ....that being said, I grew for my first 3 years without a ph or ppm/ec meter so it is possible....
TLBWP
done abit of testing of my water..
and the water out of my tap was 288ppm
and then i filtered another sample through an aqua britta machine and it came through at 163ppm..
then i left them both to stand for 24houurs.
the water that came straight out of my tap was now 363ppm from 288ppm?
and the water that i fileterd which came out of my tap is now 198ppm from 163ppm is this normal?
is this normal for it raise after you leave it to stand for the ppm to raise
and the water out of my tap was 288ppm
and then i filtered another sample through an aqua britta machine and it came through at 163ppm..
then i left them both to stand for 24houurs.
the water that came straight out of my tap was now 363ppm from 288ppm?
and the water that i fileterd which came out of my tap is now 198ppm from 163ppm is this normal?
is this normal for it raise after you leave it to stand for the ppm to raise
water can vary from the tap due to different sources being mixed before it gets to you, time of the year and sometimes even time of the day...
TLBWP
TLBWP
Hi
im also new to ppm and ph meters.
i did the same test...I have a dafi filter "same as brita"
330 ppm tap water.
filter once 250 ppm.
filter twice 200 ppm.
My ppm also raised overnight cant remember the numbers..
my ppm was not stable with tap water. In 12 hours it go from 5.7 to 6.4 ph
but with the filter water it go from 5.7 to 5.85 in 12 hours.
so now my ph is stable but the filter removes most of the calcium and magnesium in the water.
cal / mag deficiency.
Like TheLittleBoyWhoPointed said
Tap water can vary from tap to tap.
I use gh nutes hard water.. my nute havent got any calcium in it.. calsium from the tap water. and almost no magnesium in it..it also comes from the tap water. but using the filter removes most of the calsium and magnesium. thats why the water is more "taste more soft". but now my ph is stable....
hope the info helps a litte bit about your water....
thanx to Shabang for the info below
It's simple to find out if you are using too much food or not enough by watching the nutrient concentration levels in your tanks day to day. Don't be concerned with the exact reading, rather watch how it rises and falls from each day to the next. The differences between when you put the solution into the tank and the readings you get several hours later or the next day are what tell you if your plant is eating, drinking or happy.
Start with 1.00 EC (or a SAFE nutrient strength). Next day, if it reads 1.4, it means your plants have been using water and your nutrient solution is becoming more concentrated. This means the concentration of nutrients is too high, so you dilute.
If the meter reads lower than the previous day, 0.7 say, it tells you that the plants are eating nutrients faster than they are drinking water, so you should increase your nutrient strength. If it remains the same, your feeding schedule is on target for now. The nutrient/water intake fluctuates with the growth of the plant, so you must continually monitor it day to day.
Your plants will tell you the optimum nutrient levels. When they are receiving optimum food and water, the readings remain constant. The more you do it, the easier it gets. The reason no one can tell you what PPM/EC levels to use is because every garden is different and every plant has different requirements due to their particular environment. That's why you have a ball park starting figure, but after that your plants will tell you almost exactly what they require.
Peace
