I was reading that general organics is in partnership with Scott’s/miracle grow. I didn’t even know about this ( since I am new to growing cannabis ) does this mean ancient forest is now trash ?
Question about the humus I bought.
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Jraven
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Well, it doesn't necessarily mean the product itself has changed...I'm not familiar with the product but Know what you mean about the company. I'd use up what I have and look for something else next time around. 
Well, it doesn't necessarily mean the product itself has changed...I'm not familiar with the product but Know what you mean about the company. I'd use up what I have and look for something else next time around.
Will do. It was all I the store had and I don’t know much about these cannabis companies only some.
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Yep, we are definitely seeing the big companies buying up a lot of the little ones.It's hard to keep up with. I'm trying to keep it close to home myself as much as I can lol
Yeah same I sourced some local compost , worm casting and worms. I dunno where I can get humus tho locally I live no where near the forest. I wonder if I can compost forest matter like pine needles and pine cones.
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Ancient Forest is fine, you're good...Give Baseline humus a try from Vitallandscaping.com if you want to try something different. It's a little pricey though but you can buy it by the bucket..I use it because I've seen the results from a very good grower I follow and I always have killer results...Good luck..Sourcing from the land is best but I live in an urban area so I'm not sure how reliable my sources are lol
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A biologic inoculant, and excellent source of humic and fulvic acids.
An ancient humus derived from diatoms
Packed with beneficial microorganisms
Excellent for revitalizing soil
A must-have ingredient in compost tea
Increases plants ability to assimilate nutrients
Can I make my own humus by composting wood chips and leaf matter ? I only ask because I just got a truck load full of free mulch
You totally can, if you have the space then it's worth learning how.
https://logicalgardener.org/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=205
https://logicalgardener.org/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=178
Humus - Compost - and Mulchs .
An easy old-time method of increasing soil organic content was to grow ryegrass or soybeans, and then plow them under as a green manure. You can do this in between harvests if you grow a winter cover crop. Much the same effect can be obtained by mixing purchased organic materials--such as peat--into the soil. But avoid introducing weed seeds. This will be a hazard if you obtain manure from a local barnlot. There may be weed seeds in the hay, or even in piles of sawdust left to rot at the mills.
Such organics yield humus when they decompose, but they should be mostly decomposed when you use them. If organic materials high in carbohydrate (such as sawdust or straw) are mixed fresh into soil, a temporary imbalance of fertility results until decay has progressed. The little organisms which cause rotting compete with garden plants for nitrogen. If you are mixing incompletely decomposed organics into your soil, you should add at least a pound of actual nitrogen to each 1,000 square feet or your plants may starve at the very time you think you are helping to nourish them.
Often organics are first put on as a mulch--that is, a surface layer. Some decomposition occurs during the growing season, and then the residues are mixed into the soil.
Many gardeners prefer to have a compost pile where they dump weeds, fallen autumn leaves, and grass clippings, and allow them to decompose into humus. Practically anything that was once alive can be added, including garbage from the kitchen such as non-meat table scraps, egg cartons, paper towels, eggshells, coffee grounds, shredded paper from the office, etc. Various techniques are used, but the main objective is to encourage the microorganisms to attack the organics. These little organisms need moisture and air in order to flourish. So a compost heap should be arranged to drain adequately, but it should be dished out at the top to trap water rather than shed it. In some instances, purchased bacteria or earthworms are added, but usually nature supplies these adequately.
For quick composting, layers of rich soil are often interspersed between the organic material, possibly with lime and fertilizer added as well. Loosening or turning the compost aerates it and speeds the decomposition. A well-laid pile will function even in winter, for the internal activity releases heat.
The time it takes to produce humus, in favorable conditions, may be only a few weeks. But if you are not in a hurry, you can pile things up as they accumulate, and they will gradually rot to black humus in the oldest part of the pile.
An easy old-time method of increasing soil organic content was to grow ryegrass or soybeans, and then plow them under as a green manure. You can do this in between harvests if you grow a winter cover crop. Much the same effect can be obtained by mixing purchased organic materials--such as peat--into the soil. But avoid introducing weed seeds. This will be a hazard if you obtain manure from a local barnlot. There may be weed seeds in the hay, or even in piles of sawdust left to rot at the mills.
Such organics yield humus when they decompose, but they should be mostly decomposed when you use them. If organic materials high in carbohydrate (such as sawdust or straw) are mixed fresh into soil, a temporary imbalance of fertility results until decay has progressed. The little organisms which cause rotting compete with garden plants for nitrogen. If you are mixing incompletely decomposed organics into your soil, you should add at least a pound of actual nitrogen to each 1,000 square feet or your plants may starve at the very time you think you are helping to nourish them.
Often organics are first put on as a mulch--that is, a surface layer. Some decomposition occurs during the growing season, and then the residues are mixed into the soil.
Many gardeners prefer to have a compost pile where they dump weeds, fallen autumn leaves, and grass clippings, and allow them to decompose into humus. Practically anything that was once alive can be added, including garbage from the kitchen such as non-meat table scraps, egg cartons, paper towels, eggshells, coffee grounds, shredded paper from the office, etc. Various techniques are used, but the main objective is to encourage the microorganisms to attack the organics. These little organisms need moisture and air in order to flourish. So a compost heap should be arranged to drain adequately, but it should be dished out at the top to trap water rather than shed it. In some instances, purchased bacteria or earthworms are added, but usually nature supplies these adequately.
For quick composting, layers of rich soil are often interspersed between the organic material, possibly with lime and fertilizer added as well. Loosening or turning the compost aerates it and speeds the decomposition. A well-laid pile will function even in winter, for the internal activity releases heat.
The time it takes to produce humus, in favorable conditions, may be only a few weeks. But if you are not in a hurry, you can pile things up as they accumulate, and they will gradually rot to black humus in the oldest part of the pile.
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