Question on nutes + drooping leaves

[Teuffelhound]

What does your watering schedule look like?

I'm always worried about overwatering them. When I initially started to water them, I was giving them about 1/2 liter each. For the last week (every 2-3 days) they were getting 1-1/2 liter each. I feel the weight of the (7-gallon) fabric pot and check the top 2-3 inches on the soil.

 

[Teuffelhound]

Look at VPD and make sure you are in range.

Checking VPD daily and typically it's between .7 to 1. Sometimes though I notice the VPD is in range, but the humidity is lower than 40%. Not sure if that's a problem...

Apologies mistertim, not trying to hijack your thread - seemed like a similar issue.

 

[mistertim]

I'm always worried about overwatering them. When I initially started to water them, I was giving them about 1/2 liter each. For the last week (every 2-3 days) they were getting 1-1/2 liter each. I feel the weight of the (7-gallon) fabric pot and check the top 2-3 inches on the soil.

I actually ran into somewhat the same issue as you I think. I had read so much info that made it a point to say not overwater your plants and how new growers often do that, so I was trying to make sure I didn't drown them and ended up going in the opposite direction I think. In so doing, I think I was somewhat underwatering them. I could tell one of my plants was definitely wilting some when I watered it yesterday and by later that day it had perked right back up.

I was generally waiting until most of the soil was dry, which ended up being several days, and I feel like that's too long. Now I'm going to go more in the "top 2-3 inches are dry" direction which will mean every couple of days probably.

Checking VPD daily and typically it's between .7 to 1. Sometimes though I notice the VPD is in range, but the humidity is lower than 40%. Not sure if that's a problem...

Apologies mistertim, not trying to hijack your thread - seemed like a similar issue.

Oh no apologies necessary, I didn't see it as a hijack at all. We were seeing the same issues, so it makes sense to discuss it in the same thread IMO.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

IMPO measuring soil run-off is mostly useless. It can show trends but the values are otherwise meaningless. You should get an Accurate 8 Soil Probe or the clone of it. They are durable and easy to maintain. The cheaper ones do not work don't waste your money. I run Blue Lab but it ain't cheap.

Watering is an art form we must learn. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering. Coco can be fertigate many times a day if you want to continually present fresh balanced nutrients to the roots. Begin fertigation 2 hours after lights on and end it 2 hours before lights out.

 

[trapper419]

@mistertimWelcome to AFN Your plants look fine. Do not fertilize until the plants ask for it. They will start to turn lime green when it is time. Never feed single nutrients - EVER. You must always add nutrients in balance. Once you get a pot out of balance it is very difficult to get it back. If you continue to use Distilled or RO water when you start feeding on the days you feed add 50 PPM of Cal-mag to the water before you mix in the other nutrients. Be sure to mix them in the order of the chart.

Learn about balance here:

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Get calibration fluid for your PH pen ASAP. PH is absolutely important.

Here is a schedule to use for your nutrients. Use this chart at about 50% - 60% strength for Autoflowering plants EC of .7 to 1.2 max. Remember flushing is for Coco not soil.

Start with a Fertigate, water, water, water repeat cycle to start.

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Hey i have a question also im currently have 4 autos and i have been feeding them the tri from fox farm im almost in flower so my question is do i still use all three ir should i back off the big grow and just use big bloom untill incan add tiger bloom with it? Im confused on if i should use all three as the pamflet says? Or only each fertilizer ? For every cycle? Thanks

 

[harryowen]

You must always add nutrients in balance. Once you get a pot out of balance it is very difficult to get it back. If you continue to use Distilled or RO water when you start feeding on Speed Test the days you feed add 50 PPM of Cal-mag to the water before you mix in the other nutrients.