Rookie first grow outdoor autos uk, help and advice welcome

[newblood87]

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There's a thought...vaseline the bottom of the stem for the earwig damaged one.... ..cheap..simple and available....


If your humidity is high anyway.... don't go adding to it by misting the leaves heavy....find some way to get a bit windy in there if you can....high humidity is a problem...

Yea im gunna do that on the bottom few inch of each stem, (i believe every plant has the same kind of damage just different amounts of it on each plant, to be honest theyve been getting plenty of wind last 2 weeks, i started questioning if wind burn could be xausing any damage to leaves because at times wind has been quite strong, im gunna at some support so they cant bend too much and then il us that to support the bud weight a bit aswell tying branches to the support. (Yes im still dreaming of huge buds )
Ive built a daft rough shelter with plastic sheeting on the top, after this week the will stay under that shelter until finished to prevent rain drops getting to the buds, also to prevent the rain watering my plants because with my luck they would be drenched when i need yo feed them lol, ive been trying not to saturate them these last 2 weeks and watering more regular instead, not sure if this is the right thing to do but i though it would be better than drowning them

 

[Mossy]

(Yes im still dreaming of huge buds )

Me too....... ...me too.....you sound as if you are on the right track........

 

[newblood87]

Me too....... ...me too.....you sound as if you are on the right track........

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Looking awesome bro how long have your babies got left?

 

[Mossy]

Looking awesome bro how long have your babies got left?

1 tub down... ....and the rest in the next two weeks...they are seeded..so that decides the time......

 

[newblood87]

1 tub down... ....and the rest in the next two weeks...they are seeded..so that decides the time......

Hermie or did you intend for them to seed? Why does that define the time? Is it just until seeds are ready then chop or does it go so far into seed then start effecting the strength?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@newblood87 Welcome To AFN.

Your plants look fine except for the noted bug attack. You can use some Slugo-Plus around the area the grow and not needed in the pots because it is a bait and will attract the earwigs on the ground.

Monterey Sluggo Plus Slug Killer, 1 lb - Wildlife & UK | Ubuy

Get rid of slugs with Monterey Sluggo Plus slug killer. Wildlife and pet safe. Effective and easy to use. Available at Ubuy UK. Order now!

www.u-buy.co.uk

Your plants are not in flower yet and still need the grow nutrients for probably 2 more weeks. this is what transition week should look like:

When you said you let the pots dry out don't let them get too dry. What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Make sure there is an air gap under your pot, you do not want runoff to be reabsorbed and if no air then anaerobic microbes can grow. This is a cause of root rot.

You are off to a great start

 

[Mossy]

Hermie or did you intend for them to seed? Why does that define the time? Is it just until seeds are ready then chop or does it go so far into seed then start effecting the strength?

Intended cross.... ...and yeah...no point pulling immature seeds......

 

[newblood87]

@newblood87 Welcome To AFN.

Your plants look fine except for the noted bug attack. You can use some Slugo-Plus around the area the grow and not needed in the pots because it is a bait and will attract the earwigs on the ground.

Monterey Sluggo Plus Slug Killer, 1 lb - Wildlife & UK | Ubuy

Get rid of slugs with Monterey Sluggo Plus slug killer. Wildlife and pet safe. Effective and easy to use. Available at Ubuy UK. Order now!

www.u-buy.co.uk

Your plants are not in flower yet and still need the grow nutrients for probably 2 more weeks. this is what transition week should look like:

View attachment 1749802



When you said you let the pots dry out don't let them get too dry. What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Make sure there is an air gap under your pot, you do not want runoff to be reabsorbed and if no air then anaerobic microbes can grow. This is a cause of root rot.

You are off to a great start

That is when i feed/ water when they start feeling light, i did feel the weight of the pots before water when i was starting and then felt the difference after i had pre soaked before planting my seeds, although i didnt keep slowly watering until it couldnt hold nomore but i obviously could feel the difference easily in the weight, 1 day a few weeks ago i was worried id let them dry out too much as they were obviously light when i picked up, and i could see the soil had slighty sucked in from the edge of the pot, when i watered it was fairly slow soaking in at first so i assumed that was my soil being too dry... My fabric pots are on top of a scaffold board which is placed on 4x2 to keep the board off the ground, i assumed they would be find because they wouldnt be standing in water because excess runs off the board and soaks into it, would i be better of standing them on upside down plantpots with holes in so they cant hold any standing water?

Also i read somewhere (maybe on this forum maybe another) that once the white pistols start coming through thats the plant going into preflower and that was when i should switch...

This is where they are at now, should i feed grow only at 1/4 strength or should i feed with 1/4 reccomended dose grow and bloom at this point? I will probably need to water/feed tommorow they wernt as light as when i have been watering when i checked on them an hour ago so i left them for now.

Thanks for your reply and advice mate i appreciate it

 

[newblood87]

Intended cross.... ...and yeah...no point pulling immature seeds......

Thats alright then i started feeling the dissapointment for you thinking it wasnt intended with having all them plants together

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

That is when i feed/ water when they start feeling light, i did feel the weight of the pots before water when i was starting and then felt the difference after i had pre soaked before planting my seeds, although i didnt keep slowly watering until it couldnt hold nomore but i obviously could feel the difference easily in the weight, 1 day a few weeks ago i was worried id let them dry out too much as they were obviously light when i picked up, and i could see the soil had slighty sucked in from the edge of the pot, when i watered it was fairly slow soaking in at first so i assumed that was my soil being too dry... My fabric pots are on top of a scaffold board which is placed on 4x2 to keep the board off the ground, i assumed they would be find because they wouldnt be standing in water because excess runs off the board and soaks into it, would i be better of standing them on upside down plantpots with holes in so they cant hold any standing water?

Also i read somewhere (maybe on this forum maybe another) that once the white pistols start coming through thats the plant going into preflower and that was when i should switch...

This is where they are at now, should i feed grow only at 1/4 strength or should i feed with 1/4 reccomended dose grow and bloom at this point? I will probably need to water/feed tommorow they wernt as light as when i have been watering when i checked on them an hour ago so i left them for now.

Thanks for your reply and advice mate i appreciate it

This chart gives a rough guideline for nutrient needs and of course the time for transition is variable with many variables at work. The thing is N is still needed into the early weeks of flower then tapers off quickly.

I wrote this primer on using salt fertilizers. It was written with autoflowers in mind, you may find it informational:

Tutorial Thread 'A word on Nutrients'

Jan 28, 2021

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis.

Salts:
Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based fertilizer properly is being environmentally responsible.

The first thing you need to learn is to get a ladder and put the Cal-Mag on the top shelf out of reach. Put the ladder away. I do not know how it got started but Cal-Mag is the number one abused product in the tent. It alone is...

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