Rusty marks on my babys

[Nash]

Just a suggestion.... If your water is hard, you may already have enough "Calcium" but lacking in "Magnesium"

You may want to consider just adding some "Mag" if this is the case.

I would suggest something like this.... I have used it in the past with good success....

I know I have plenty of calcium lol. My kettle will vouch for that. If it's just needing magnesium then this would help keep my EC down?



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[Nash]

Hydro - Coco - Soilless range is 5.5 -6.5

My res hasn't been out of this. I'm going to check root zone for ph.


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[Frogster]

Soil is what I use.... well more a hybrid system really.

Autopots with Canna Pro Soil, Air domes and Res watered/fed...

The first few weeks there is enough nutrients in the soil to last almost to end of veg.... But also give a top up if required and always add some root stuff and a little extra Mag

Then Flower at PH 5.6 to 6.0 (I vary the PH in the res over the week) I run EC at 1.6 to 2.0 during the flower period, again depending on what the girls tell you (show you) they want.

Much easier in soil, more stable, the autopots work fantastic.... so much so you have to run lighter nutrients as they drink so much...and if you get it right.... well.... take a look at my grow.

 

[Nash]

Soil is what I use.... well more a hybrid system really.

Autopots with Canna Pro Soil, Air domes and Res watered/fed...

The first few weeks there is enough nutrients in the soil to last almost to end of veg.... But also give a top up if required and always add some root stuff and a little extra Mag

Then Flower at PH 5.6 to 6.0 (I vary the PH in the res over the week) I run EC at 1.6 to 2.0 during the flower period, again depending on what the girls tell you (show you) they want.

Much easier in soil, more stable, and if you get it right.... well.... take a look at my grow.

Auto pot and soil. Sounds good. I was looking at the alien easy feed its the same setup as your autopsy just the feeds are timed instead of when there empty. Thought it was a slight improvement. Have you seen them. Also using a recirculating system with coco and hard water was a stupid idea. The next one I'm going clay with the wilma then I'm getting some easy feed autopot setup. Drain to waste in top fed drip systems I think. Lessons learnt


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[Frogster]

Auto pot and soil. Sounds good. I was looking at the alien easy feed its the same setup as your autopsy just the feeds are timed instead of when there empty. Thought it was a slight improvement. Have you seen them. Also using a recirculating system with coco and hard water was a stupid idea. The next one I'm going clay with the wilma then I'm getting some easy feed autopot setup. Drain to waste in top fed drip systems I think. Lessons learnt


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I looked at lots of different systems, The autopots work on a dry and wet rotation... with a timed system it is regular, but your girls may not need it if they are already still wet from the last feed.... or maybe one drinks more than another.

The Autopot system feeds as the plants say "can I have some food now".... not when your timer says "Now It is Dinner Time".

Just my take on it.... But Very Happy I went that way.

 

[Nash]

I looked at lots of different systems, The autopots work on a dry and wet rotation... with a timed system it is regular, but your girls may not need it if they are already still wet from the last feed.... or maybe one drinks more than another.

The Autopot system feeds as the plants say "can I have some food now".... not when your timer says "Now It is Dinner Time".

Just my take on it.... But Very Happy I went that way.

I though that trays filled as soon as they where dry not the substrate. Interesting that. Don't get me wrong tho I think the wilma will be a lot better with the clay and rec nutrients. I'm real happy with how they are looking. This is only on one plant and it's been the hungriest out of them all and slightly more mature as well.


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[Frogster]

The trays dry (as the substrate sucks it up)... then the tray stays dry for about 30 mins, then the valve opens and they start the cycle again.

The important bit is... "Each Pot" draws water/nutrients as required by "EACH" plant... not as a timer says "You are ALL going to get fed NOW". But, I am sure each system will work.

I am just saying it works for me.... your milage may vary.... As an example ....

This is a Auto Mazar I am currently growing in soil in an Autopot... I went from this ....

To this in just 40 Days..... 6ft high, 11ft around, full of bud....

 

[blue]

Nice work Frogster - you've made me re-think my auto pot strategy!
I'll be down scalling from 2 plants to 1

 

[WeedSmokerEire]

The trays dry (as the substrate sucks it up)... then the tray stays dry for about 30 mins, then the valve opens and they start the cycle again.

The important bit is... "Each Pot" draws water/nutrients as required by "EACH" plant... not as a timer says "You are ALL going to get fed NOW". But, I am sure each system will work.

I am just saying it works for me.... your milage may vary.... As an example ....

This is a Auto Mazar I am currently growing in soil in an Autopot... I went from this ....
View attachment 623996

To this in just 40 Days..... 6ft high, 11ft around, full of bud....

View attachment 623997

Wow! Thats a huge auto lol my 4 arent even close to that size and theyre at 40 days. Northern light automatic from royal queen seeds

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[Waira]

Hey Nash- looks like a bit of Ca defc. to me,.. i see some other finer spots here and there,...plus, coco is a huge Ca hog, owing to it's CEC quirks, it binds Ca big time until a satiation point is reached, then it gives and takes more readily, consistently,.. but the Ca level needs to be kept up to maintain it, or it keeps it from the roots... If you've been feeding light, w/o a Ca-Mg supplement, there might be a shortage,... normally the coco specific nute's will have the extra Ca and Mg you'll need...
>> pH availability for better Ca uptake is lower than 5.8, not higher, so don't adjust that direction if you do anything,.. 5.8 is fine otherwise....
>> color on the petioles in not a Ca or Mg defc, symptom, BTW... it's a co-symptom for P defc sometimes, but many strains have color normally on the petioles, plus high light exposure can do it as well, so barring other symptoms, that petiole color is not an issue...
>> you mentioned hard water... what's the ppm? yes, it can help with Ca availability, but that depends on just HOW hard the water is.. I need a reading if you can.. how are you adjusting the pH down, are the nute's alone doing it?