
DH'-- are you using any Ca-Mg at all? I'm kicking myself for not asking before, and some digging around has shown me some pics of more atypical Mg defc. symptoms, which match pretty well with yours,... You really haven't feed that much, so nute burn seems less likely to me, and with that, other minor defc.'s may be acting up and muddying the Mg symptoms,... And with LED light, Mg and especially Ca demands are higher,.. feed at half str. na d for sure get Ca-Mg going ASAP,... if you have it a foliar spray would be the ticket; to make the most of this, you'll need a wetting agent so it coats and sticks far better... A very mild soap can be used in a pinch at this early stage, but the real stuff is best! (I like Coco-Wet best).... Spray tops
and bottoms of leaves, keep out of direct light until dry,... it'll take a couple days for things to halt most likely,... pH looks good!

That's huge man, it clears any lockout issues from the cause list,...
On the pH meter calibration: RO/Di are not at all proper for this! In fact, they are acidic, due to the reaction of CO2 with water, forming carbonic acid.... 7.0 and 4.0 calibration solutions are what you'll need, plus the proper storage solution, there are no substitutes for these!... It's a pain I know, but pH meters are delicate instruments, easily losing calibration if not clean-rinsed with RO/Di water after each use, stored well, and not allowed to dry out,... If you stay with soil/soilless (Promix, coco, etc.) , I very highly recommend you score an Accurate 8 soil ph probe... this is for direct in-pot measurements, which can't be beat!-- no more f*cking around with the lousy run-off method-

,... by monitoring your inputs for water and nutes making sure they're in proper pH range before they go in (I know what AN says, and I say "trust, but verify!"), and watching your in-pot pH, you can spot trouble well before shit happens,.. prevention is worlds better than cure!