Tents without light leaks?

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Just curious if anyone knows of a good grow tent that doesn't have light leaks. My zipper on both of my tents is where it leaks light. Any knowledge is greatly appreciated
 
Buying a cloth drape might be cheap, easy, and effective. Put a couple weights at the top and hang it over the front. Small pain to put it up when you need to open the tent but way cheaper than a whole new one.
 
Buying a cloth drape might be cheap, easy, and effective. Put a couple weights at the top and hang it over the front. Small pain to put it up when you need to open the tent but way cheaper than a whole new one.
Lol, exactly what I'm doing now. I dont mind doing it with my 2x4. However, I have a cheap 4x4 with leaks on all sides. Simply needs to be replaced
 
From what I've heard Gorilla tents are the best I don't know from experience cause I've never spent the money on one nor can I fit one in my space. I have had good luck with my vivosun tent but it's fairly new. I only found couple pin holes in the walls that I covered with tape. I believe my AC infinity tent is pretty good but I've never checked it cause I grow auto's in there so haven't had to worry.
 
Small holes in fabric can be repaired by simply dabbing or spraying on black paint, with this likely less visible or otherwise better than applying tape. From there, you just need a perhaps 8-12-inch wide piece of fabric to cover the light-leaking zipper; and if a better/tighter seal over the zipper is desired glue on some patches of velcro to keep it in place.

If you have problems keeping the tent warm (with winter coming), hanging blankets or equivalent over the top and 4 sides can be good insulation, besides blocking light.
 
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I've looked into this quite a bit last time I bought a tent. You research around and you will find complaints about pinholes from customers from pretty much every brand. The priority for me shifted to the best zippers. I went with AC infinity. I don't know if they have the best zippers or not but I'm familiar with the brand and have grown to trust it. And yea, when I zip myself up I can find some leaks. I ignore them. It's no Gorilla tent, but it's priced accordingly.

Just a fyi on light leaks. I recently noticed I've been growing with a big led light on my fan for about 6 or 7 months now. Not sure how I over looked this lol. I have had no problems with any of my photo period plants throwing herms. I'm not saying it can't happen, I'm just thinking maybe it's been over stated in the past by some.
 

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I saw a bugbee video that said basically if it's not enough light to read a book, it's not enough light to effect the plant. Not sure if the color matters but I'm pretty sure he was talking about moonlight and growing near streetlights :pass:
 
That's because because brightness and intensity are two totally different animals.

Just because something is BRIGHT, does not mean that it is INTENSE.

Gather around my children, it's learning time!

Brightness involves how we as humans perceive light and it's NOT a physical quantity. Some familiar units of measurements are lux, lumens, and candelas.

Lux is the measurement for the amount of visible light spread over a surface area, also known as illuminance.

Lumens or luminosity is the measurement for the amount of visible light emitted by a light source. Lumens are a standard unit that can be used to compare different light sources.

Candelas are of measurement for the brightness of light based on the human eye's perception, more specifically a measurement of directional intensity. Candelas replaced the term "candlepower" in the late 40's (they had a slightly different conversion formula back then, but today it's relatively a straight 1:1 ratio between candelas and candlepower.) A light source has a luminosity of one candle if it appears to match the output of a standard candle.

Intensity is the power per unit area and IS a physical quantity.

When growing cannabis there are specifics units of measurement we're looking for when it comes light intensity.

In cultivation, this is defined by PAR light.

PAR (which stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is light of wavelengths 400-700 nm and is the portion of the light spectrum utilized by plants for photosynthesis.

We quantify (or to put in a measurable form) PAR light using PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density), which is defined as the photon flux density of PAR.

PPFD is measured in micro-mols per second (μmol/s), indicating how many photons in this spectral range fall on the plant each second.

The PPFD of the full moon is about 0.01 micro E / m(squared)s while middle of the day sunshine readings average 2,000 micro E / m(squared)s. Moonlight at full moon equals only 1/200,000th sunlight at noon.

So yes, you can read a book by moonlight for sure, or you can see your inside living room with even a tiny LED light being on with your TV and electronics, but while they are BRIGHT to our SENSITIVE human eyeballs, they are NOT INTENSE, meaning they are providing an extremely low (negligible) PPFD, or light intensity, that would actually support photosynthetic growth.

So smaller light leaks are less concerning, but as the source of light becomes more INTENSE, that is what is going to potentially causes stress in the plants.
 
That's because because brightness and intensity are two totally different animals.

Just because something is BRIGHT, does not mean that it is INTENSE.

Gather around my children, it's learning time!

Brightness involves how we as humans perceive light and it's NOT a physical quantity. Some familiar units of measurements are lux, lumens, and candelas.

Lux is the measurement for the amount of visible light spread over a surface area, also known as illuminance.

Lumens or luminosity is the measurement for the amount of visible light emitted by a light source. Lumens are a standard unit that can be used to compare different light sources.

Candelas are of measurement for the brightness of light based on the human eye's perception, more specifically a measurement of directional intensity. Candelas replaced the term "candlepower" in the late 40's (they had a slightly different conversion formula back then, but today it's relatively a straight 1:1 ratio between candelas and candlepower.) A light source has a luminosity of one candle if it appears to match the output of a standard candle.

Intensity is the power per unit area and IS a physical quantity.

When growing cannabis there are specifics units of measurement we're looking for when it comes light intensity.

In cultivation, this is defined by PAR light.

PAR (which stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is light of wavelengths 400-700 nm and is the portion of the light spectrum utilized by plants for photosynthesis.

We quantify (or to put in a measurable form) PAR light using PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density), which is defined as the photon flux density of PAR.

PPFD is measured in micro-mols per second (μmol/s), indicating how many photons in this spectral range fall on the plant each second.

The PPFD of the full moon is about 0.01 micro E / m(squared)s while middle of the day sunshine readings average 2,000 micro E / m(squared)s. Moonlight at full moon equals only 1/200,000th sunlight at noon.

So yes, you can read a book by moonlight for sure, or you can see your inside living room with even a tiny LED light being on with your TV and electronics, but while they are BRIGHT to our SENSITIVE human eyeballs, they are NOT INTENSE, meaning they are providing an extremely low (negligible) PPFD, or light intensity, that would actually support photosynthetic growth.

So smaller light leaks are less concerning, but as the source of light becomes more INTENSE, that is what is going to potentially causes stress in the plants.
So a few small holes or leaky zipper are nothing to be concerned about, even with photos(?).

Also if concerned about plants being in 'full' darkness, with indoor tents the lighting in the room is rather low intensity/PPF compared to within the tent, so not much is going to leak in vs. leaking out.
 
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