The root zone temperatures and how they affect the uptake of nutrients.

:crying: :crying: :crying: Just give it some more Cal-mag :crying::crying::crying: Well like I said it is the most abused nutrient in "attempted cannabis growing".

We have an infirmary here where we most likely would have caught the spider mite issue for you.

It is a standard practice to pile your compost/soil mixture on a tarp wet it down and wait 2 weeks, stick your hand or a thermometer in the middle to make sure it is done! Almost all of the bagged compost I have bought is not done. I only apply to the garden in fall when it has all winter to finish up.

I have a bad back and cannot lift pots of soil so I grow Hydro. Pumps do all of my heavy lifting.

Don't get hung up on root temperature, it usually is a non-issue. The same thing for soil PH (assuming quality soil) Monitor your inputs PH, If that is right the soil will remain in range. People do not understand that the roots of the plants exude substances to trigger the microbes to make the nutrients that the plant wants by changing the PH in the root biome. Altering that can cause deficiencies. Leave that root zone alone!
 
:crying: :crying: :crying: Just give it some more Cal-mag :crying::crying::crying: Well like I said it is the most abused nutrient in "attempted cannabis growing".

We have an infirmary here where we most likely would have caught the spider mite issue for you.

It is a standard practice to pile your compost/soil mixture on a tarp wet it down and wait 2 weeks, stick your hand or a thermometer in the middle to make sure it is done! Almost all of the bagged compost I have bought is not done. I only apply to the garden in fall when it has all winter to finish up.

I have a bad back and cannot lift pots of soil so I grow Hydro. Pumps do all of my heavy lifting.

Don't get hung up on root temperature, it usually is a non-issue. The same thing for soil PH (assuming quality soil) Monitor your inputs PH, If that is right the soil will remain in range. People do not understand that the roots of the plants exude substances to trigger the microbes to make the nutrients that the plant wants by changing the PH in the root biome. Altering that can cause deficiencies. Leave that root zone alone!
Thanks. I've got at least a month before I start my most successful grow yet! I'll do just as you said with my soil for the next run. I dumped all the used soil in a compost bin. It has already been rained on a few times. I stir it up just about every day. I'll measure out what I think I'll need plus 10% and use the tarp method you mentioned.
Cooler water (not left in the sun for days) and some reflective tape on the pots of my outdoor photos is making a big difference.
In my 5x5 I have 4 plants that I have not screwed with no matter what (except for some trimming). Not a yellow leaf in the tent. Hmmm. Stick to the program.
 
:crying: :crying: :crying: Just give it some more Cal-mag :crying::crying::crying: Well like I said it is the most abused nutrient in "attempted cannabis growing".

We have an infirmary here where we most likely would have caught the spider mite issue for you.

It is a standard practice to pile your compost/soil mixture on a tarp wet it down and wait 2 weeks, stick your hand or a thermometer in the middle to make sure it is done! Almost all of the bagged compost I have bought is not done. I only apply to the garden in fall when it has all winter to finish up.

I have a bad back and cannot lift pots of soil so I grow Hydro. Pumps do all of my heavy lifting.

Don't get hung up on root temperature, it usually is a non-issue. The same thing for soil PH (assuming quality soil) Monitor your inputs PH, If that is right the soil will remain in range. People do not understand that the roots of the plants exude substances to trigger the microbes to make the nutrients that the plant wants by changing the PH in the root biome. Altering that can cause deficiencies. Leave that root zone alone!
I grow organically, but still buffer my top dressings with a quality vegan compost. Many of the potassium inputs I use (like dried/powdered banana peels) are alkaline. The compost also helps greatly in breaking down the inputs from my experience.
 
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