Yellowing leaves on seedling

[davisgirl]

Problem: See pictures. Dutch Passion leaves look like shit

Medium/grow method: DWC, target ph 6.25 with only mild swings

Feed: and supplements used:

First reservoir — Days 1-14: 160ppm base water + 20% strength nutes: 0.75 gr/gallon Megacrop + 0.1 gr/gallon Algae extract. 200 ppm

Second reservoir — Days 15+: half strength MC + supplements, 770 ppm

Optic foliar every other day, diamond nectar, hydroguard

water source: half tap 320 ppm, half RO, 50mg ascorbic acid per gallon of tap water

Strain/age: 17 days Dutch Passion Colorado Cookies. Putting out her fourth node now, she’ll be topped in the next day or two.

light used: 6 autocobs at 36”, 18/6

Climate: 55ish RH / 73ish temp

Additional info: An oscillating fan might be a little rough on this plant but these are in the 4x4 tent with mature flowering plants and I need the air moving.

This plant needs to take first place in a current GOTY battle, so, let’s get this worked out .

Here she is at Day 17. She started out a little leggy at first, cotyledons are about 5” up, I have a plant twisty coiled to give the stem a bit of support.

Here is her cell mate, also 17 days, looking better but not great either:

They are here alongside an 8 day old FB GCS, looks just OK:

 

[TheMongol]

@Boradan can you help here?

 

[Boradan]

I think you are weak on the MegaCrop for the top one.
My seedling at day 5 is on about 0.98 g per gallon. (I am not using a kelp extract, but I am feeding Sweet Candy to mine instead).
My ppms are at 270 if I take out the base tap water ppm.
My pH is running at 6.1 currently. I normally try to put it at 6 so as to keep any minor swings between 5.8-6.2 (what are your water temps like?)
By day 14, I expect my ppms to be at 400-500 (with the base tap water ppm removed)
The '17 day old cellmate' actually looks like her ppm may be a tad too high. Looks like clawing on her fan leaves, but hard to tell from a top-down shot.
Also, make sure to treat every plant individually - what ppm works for one plant may not (probably will not) work for another one.
The best guideline is: pale green > increase ppm. Dark green> reduce ppm.


****Also: what ppm scale are you using? 700 or 500?
Different regions use different scales.
Check your leaves against this thread for a better idea of the defs.
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...panded-to-include-other-issues-as-well.43164/

 

[davisgirl]

I think you are weak on the MegaCrop for the top one.
My seedling at day 5 is on about 0.98 g per gallon. (I am not using a kelp extract, but I am feeding Sweet Candy to mine instead).
My ppms are at 270 if I take out the base tap water ppm.
My pH is running at 6.1 currently. I normally try to put it at 6 so as to keep any minor swings between 5.8-6.2 (what are your water temps like?)
By day 14, I expect my ppms to be at 400-500 (with the base tap water ppm removed)
The '17 day old cellmate' actually looks like her ppm may be a tad too high. Looks like clawing on her fan leaves, but hard to tell from a top-down shot.
Also, make sure to treat every plant individually - what ppm works for one plant may not (probably will not) work for another one.
The best guideline is: pale green > increase ppm. Dark green> reduce ppm.


****Also: what ppm scale are you using? 700 or 500?
Different regions use different scales.
Check your leaves against this thread for a better idea of the defs.
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...panded-to-include-other-issues-as-well.43164/

Oh dear, just noticed now that the roots on both of these 2 are brown and slimy. I’ve heard of it but I’ve never seen anything like it. So I guess that’s the pythium/root rot. The roots on the GSC and the adults are fine still. I guess I didn’t bother with the hydroguard in the first reservoir — it’s the only time I haven’t used it since I got it.

So there are a thousand links to help me with this, I’ll be back if I hit any snags.

 

[Boradan]

Possibly a water temp issue causing the Pythium.
I have 3 x 3litre plastic bottles filled to about 90% and then squeezed slightly till the water rises to the lid. Lid is then put on and the bottles put in the freezer (this is necessary to avoid the bottle splitting when the water expands during freezing).
When the water gets to about 20C, I put one of the (now frozen) bottles in the reservoir. Brings it down nicely to about 18C. When it hits 20 again, I replace the bottle with a new, frozen one and put the melted one back in the freezer.

 

[davisgirl]

Possibly a water temp issue causing the Pythium.
I have 3 x 3litre plastic bottles filled to about 90% and then squeezed slightly till the water rises to the lid. Lid is then put on and the bottles put in the freezer (this is necessary to avoid the bottle splitting when the water expands during freezing).
When the water gets to about 20C, I put one of the (now frozen) bottles in the reservoir. Brings it down nicely to about 18C. When it hits 20 again, I replace the bottle with a new, frozen one and put the melted one back in the freezer.

I tend to keep the room with the tent very cool — 65 or so — which keeps it about 71 in the tent with water at 68 or 69. Lately I’ve been keeping the room 5 degrees warmer and everything went up 5 degrees. Easy problem to fix.

I’m looking at cures but at this age it might be best to scrap these two and restart. Dammit!

Thanks for your help Boradan.

 

[Boradan]

 

[Waira]

Oh dear, just noticed now that the roots on both of these 2 are brown and slimy. I’ve heard of it but I’ve never seen anything like it. So I guess that’s the pythium/root rot. The roots on the GSC and the adults are fine still. I guess I didn’t bother with the hydroguard in the first reservoir — it’s the only time I haven’t used it since I got it.

So there are a thousand links to help me with this, I’ll be back if I hit any snags.

hey DG! -.good thing somebody hydro-savvy came along,.... coz 'tain't me! .... All this fuss and bother with hydro, come join me in the dirt!

@Boradan Cheers mate, thanks for chiming in,... I'm wondering if you have some insights on products like this Armory .... I used this in place of Actinovate for outdoor plants as a mold (botrytis, mainly) preventor, as a foliar spray... But it's listed for use in hydro for similar purposes, to fight root rots....

 

[RivetGrrl]

Looks like you got your answer DG, as I mentioned in your thread I'm dealing with similar issue.
I tried H2O2 but had to add it too often, so I switched to a cleaning enzyme and Sensizyme since I can't get Hydroguard in Canada which pisses me off.
So my leaves looked like yours do, poor plants. My veg plants are OK now but flowering tent took a huge hit.
So now I pay as much attention to my roots as I do the shoots! Always learning, often the hard way.
Good luck with your fight, it looks like you have air stones in each bucket and lots fo room for roots, so I'd look at temps as others have suggested. I do the frozen water bottle trick too when temps climb.

 

[Boradan]

hey DG! -.good thing somebody hydro-savvy came along,.... coz 'tain't me! .... All this fuss and bother with hydro, come join me in the dirt!

@Boradan Cheers mate, thanks for chiming in,... I'm wondering if you have some insights on products like this Armory .... I used this in place of Actinovate for outdoor plants as a mold (botrytis, mainly) preventor, as a foliar spray... But it's listed for use in hydro for similar purposes, to fight root rots....

I was looking at Armory, but it is difficult to obtain in Europe.
I use Great White instead, which seems to be a more complete product (it is also a crapton cheaper - dry weight is similar $/g, but Armory uses 1-4tsp per gallon while Great White uses 1tsp per 10 Gallons for Hydro ).