100% Organic Grow.

[GMan]

Fantastic, thanks again man

 

[Eyes on Fire]

me?nah man.Ill use powdered molasses and sugar in the raw and eggshells and crabshells.thats whay Ive used short of the epsom salts.and that'll ill play with this next round.

 

[Guerrilla]

me?nah man.Ill use powdered molasses and sugar in the raw and eggshells and crabshells.thats whay Ive used short of the epsom salts.and that'll ill play with this next round.

I tried the eggshell thing and never really got it down. So I bought some Cal mag

 

[Eyes on Fire]

dude seriously man eggshells n crab shells and oyster shells all in a combo within a 30+ gallon mix thats already balanced (for the most part anywho aint gotta be perfect..just balanced with solid PH levels n buffering characteristics)and dri the whole shell for a week(less really but I give it a week)add an even mix of egg n crab or from local fishing areas.Anyone live near hatteras or the islands or anything(man ya'll are sittin on gold n ya dont even know it.literally and figuratively speaking anywho)but i crush em up small and blend em with the soil mixture n thats all she wrote give her a cpl weeks or five to really give her a good breaking of the trace minerals and building blocks of food n proteins and fats n so on and you got a heavy cal amended soil.add a 1/2-1 cup of salts to your same sizes mix(20+ imo) and you should be right as rain man.:Sharing One:

 

[Eyes on Fire]

2-3 dozen eggshells regular or large and if you wanna get daring somewhat use 1/3 brown eggshells(cuz of pigment variations they offer slightly different characteristics too) and the rest white shells. 25 gallon mix roughly.thats what ive used with ourtstanding succes in part with using a heavy watering agent with ammended into the water(soluable Duuh LOL)such as cal mag 15 drops for 1 gallon US and molasses and sugar in the RAW.ive stood by those for many years now and they work great once ya figure it all out LOL!but simple and easy.I use,or start with the revs mix thats cuz its what I know.mostly I did make one soil 100% from scratch and it did rather well kust a small adjustment or two n I think ill nail it a lil more next time.but small additions as you get them.but its best to add them all together.I can get you a sorta how to when I mix my nexy shells if ya'd like...?

 

[evol]

I just started a worm bin and I made a big jar full of powdered crabshell to make high chiten castings. They get a good mix of crabshell with every feeding.

 

[Eyes on Fire]

man that sounds like a winner man.Im jealous of anyone who has a damn worn farm LOL I want one instead of two front teeth man LOL! but if you make Bokashi you may wanna try some and use that too,OMG.thats some killer food for yer worms along with regular foods n shells.oyster powder is good stuff too for anyone not wanting to make you own.not as good imho but awesome!!:Sharing One:

 

[evol]

I'm on the fence about Bokashi. It seems like you would still want to re compost the bokashi compost after its done in the bin.. idk I think too much sometimes

 

[Eyes on Fire]

yeah i thought that too but if used for worm dudes your just using your EWc as you would and compost them accordingly as ya do.Im soo jealous LOL! but if your bokashi is fully or darn near fully composted it can be used in anything you want assuming you kept it normal and didnt boost the decompo foods n stuffs.

When your done making bokashi you can use it in teas,worm bins ,soils as ya know and it really helps add like them special microbes that are very sturdy and well built once added to soil n left to grow.but its good to go right from the bin man.since I have actually used it for worms yet just stay on the side of caution for not feeding something too hot so Id think it would make sense to keep it a general compost blend of browns n greens with food scraps mostly but to help balance it out.several ways you can take your Bokashi bin bro.but in all honesty if you just made a standard ole regular batch as per most recipes will tell you use that.I think even for your teas youll really really love what it does.soils.?Killer!and excellent worm food.when I get my last few items sometime this coming early year ill do a report on them but having mostly only read about it and really only know how I plant to use it all for worms n such,its just speculation at this point in all honesty.but pretty assured though that it'll do juust fine. with worm bins n bokashi those are the last two buys to be fully 100% sustainable.well short of liquid kelp and a few tea additions but no soil additions at all nor actual compost short of the Mushoe bag O compost once a yr maybe.for tea or soil building.

 

[Eyes on Fire]

Id recommend using bran or mostly bran imho.unless your using something like tulip wood or something exotic ewith less natural oils unless you strip n pulp them out somewhat.
The concept of "friendly microorganisms" was developed by Professor Teruo Higa, from the University of the Ryukyus inOkinawa, Japan. He reported in the 1980s that a combination of approximately 80 different microorganisms is capable of positively influencing decomposing organic matter such that it reverts into a "life promoting" process. Higa invoked a "dominance principle" to explain the effects of his "Effective Microorganisms". He claimed that three groups of microorganisms exist: "positive microorganisms" (regeneration), "negative microorganisms" (decomposition, degeneration), "opportunist microorganisms". In every medium (soil, water, air, the human intestine), the ratio of "positive" and "negative" microorganisms is critical, since the opportunist microorganisms follow the trend to regeneration or degeneration. Therefore, Higa claimed that it is possible to positively influence the given media by supplementing with "positive" microorganisms.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Effective_microorganism

The concept has been challenged and no scientific studies support all of its claims. This was acknowledged by Higa in a 1994 paper co-authored by Higa and soil microbiologist James F Parr. They conclude "the main limitation...is the problem of reproducibility and lack of consistent results.".[SUP][4][/SUP]
Parr and Higa mention soil pH, shading, soil temperature and flooding as factors affecting the interaction of EM with local microorganisms and with each other. The approach that Higa and Parr recommend is maintaining pH and soil temperature within conditions known to be detrimental to negative microorganisms as well as the addition of EM to tip the balance of positive and negative microorganisms in favor of the former.[SUP][citation needed][/SUP]
They dismiss inoculants that include only a single microorganism as generally ineffective due to the uncertainty about the conditions in which a single microorganism would be effective.[SUP][4][/SUP] They cite the acknowledgment by the scientific community that multiple microorganisms (as in the case of Bokashi, invented and marketed by Higa) in coordination with good soil management practices positively influence plant growth and yield.
Lwini and Ranamukhaarachchi published in 2006 a paper[SUP][5][/SUP] that discusses biological controls of bacterial wilt disease and showed that EM and EM Bokashi were most-effective as bio-control agents. Yamada and Xu examined the use of EM in making organic fertilizers.[SUP][6][/SUP] Hui-Lian Xu studied photosynthesis and yield of sweet corn,[SUP][7][/SUP] physiological characteristics in peanuts,[SUP][8][/SUP] and fruit yield and quality of tomato plants.[SUP][9][/SUP] Daiss, et al., looked at pre-harvest[SUP][10][/SUP] and post-harvest [SUP][11][/SUP]applications of EM-1.
Many earlier papers were on EM-X Rice Bran Supplement, a product sold for human consumption. Chui, et al., studied the apoptotic potential of microorganisms.[SUP][12][/SUP] Datla, et al.,[SUP][13][/SUP] and Ke B.[SUP][14][/SUP] examined antioxidant-related microorganisms.
The use of EM in the bokashi-intensive composting process for home kitchen waste has been in use in Christchurch, New Zealand for years, backed by the local city council


Cockroach composting[edit]

Cockroach composting is another insect-mediated composting method. In this case the adults of any number of cockroach species (such as the Turkestan cockroach or Blaptica dubia) are used to quickly convert manure or kitchen waste to nutrient dense compost. Depending on species used and environmental conditions, excess composting insects can be used as an excellent animal feed for farm animals and pets.[SUP][14][/SUP]
Bokashi[edit]

Inside a recently started bokashi bin. The aerated base is just visible through the food scraps and bokashi bran.​

Bokashi is a method that uses a mix of microorganisms to cover food waste to decrease smell. It derives from the practice of Japanese farmers centuries ago of covering food waste with rich, local soil that contained the microorganisms that would ferment the waste. After a few weeks, they would bury the waste. Some weeks later it would become soil.[SUP][15][/SUP]
Most practitioners obtain the microorganisms from the product Effective Microorganisms (EM1),[SUP][15][/SUP] first sold in the 1980s. EM1 is mixed with a carbon base (e.g. sawdust or bran) that it sticks to and a sugar for food (e.g. molasses). The mixture is layered with waste in a sealed container and after a few weeks, removed and buried.[SUP][15][/SUP]
Newspaper fermented in a lactobacillus culture can be substituted for bokashi bran for a successful bokashi bucket. [SUP][16][/SUP]
Compost tea[edit]

Compost tea is a liquid extract or a dissolved solution but not simply a suspension of compost. It is made by steeping compost in water for 3–7 days. It was discovered in Germany and became a practice to suppress foliar fungal diseases by nature of the bacterial competition, suppression, antibiosis on the leaf surface (phyllosphere). It has also been used as a fertilizer although lab tests show it is very weak in nutrients with less than 100ppm of available nitrogen and potassium. Other salts present in the tea solution are sodium, chlorides and sulfates.[SUP][17][/SUP] The extract is applied as a spray to non-edible plant parts such as seedlings, or as a soil-drench (root dip), or as a surface spray to reduce incidence of harmfulphytopathogenic fungi in the phyllosphere.[SUP][18][/SUP]
Hügelkultur[edit]

Main article: Hügelkultur

An almost completed Hügelkultur bed (doesn't have dirt on it yet).​

The practice of making raised garden beds filled with rotting wood.[SUP][19][/SUP][SUP][20][/SUP] It is in effect creating a Nurse log, however, covered with dirt.
Benefits of hügelkultur garden beds include water retention and warming of soil.[SUP][19][/SUP][SUP][21][/SUP] Buried wood becomes like a sponge as it decomposes, able to capture water and store it for later use by crops planted on top of the hügelkultur bed.[SUP][19][/SUP][SUP][22][/SUP]
The buried decomposing wood will also give off heat, as all compost does, for several years. These effects have been used by Sepp Holzer for one to allow fruit trees to survive at otherwise inhospitable temperatures and altitudes.[SUP][20]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compost#Bokashi

I hope some of this info and maybe my yapping helps you decide to go with a small bin too.I really think youll like it once you use it in your teas n soil.[/SUP]