Grow Mediums AN Ph Perfect users only please
- Thread starter TheJesus
- Start date
I've been afraid to try it for the same reason. New bottle collecting dust lol
woody
Cultivators Club
Well i have used it in a wilma system. Its top feed from a res- roots stay in hydroton filled buckets so dont go in the res. First 2 grows i didnt use carboload and had zero slime.
3rd grow with carboload the buds were chunkier imo but lots more slime in the res.
Kind of answered my own question there but was just wanting to hear others experiences with it
3rd grow with carboload the buds were chunkier imo but lots more slime in the res.
Kind of answered my own question there but was just wanting to hear others experiences with it
I did a bunch of googling trying to figure it out. I ran into a few posts just like yours and thats exactly what scared me. I don't change my res either so adding shit that may cause slime is super scary lol
Besides pH Perfect base nutes, what else has been added? If you are using very low pH/ionic water with the pH Perfect base nutes, and (as you should) are avoiding or minimally adding salt/ion/high ppm additives, measured swings in pH are rather meaningless (according to AN). Restated, if your nute solution has no or very low baseline buffer capacity, small changes can make the measured pH swing all over the place (but you still have rather pure water).
If you're adding sugars, such as Bud Candy or CarboLoad, or other nutes containing fermentable organics, that could cause pH changes (but these should not be a problem for pH Perfect).
What matters with pH Perfect is that, presuming you start with low ppm water and don't add a lot of salts/pppm's, the nutrients are dissolved in optimally bioavailable states/structure (the ph Perfect chelation of the nutrients). The important parts of pH Perfect are the nutrients passing through tissues (roots) and then cell walls and membranes, not the measured pH of nutrient water using a delivery system designed not to be affected by the pH). Once the nutes get into the root system, external pH is just that, outside the plant, irrelevant.
I haven't read it recently, but I presume this is explained in one of AN's classic propaganda pieces, its "pH Perfect Manifest" (http://herbgrow.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/pH-Manifesto.pdf).
If you're adding sugars, such as Bud Candy or CarboLoad, or other nutes containing fermentable organics, that could cause pH changes (but these should not be a problem for pH Perfect).
What matters with pH Perfect is that, presuming you start with low ppm water and don't add a lot of salts/pppm's, the nutrients are dissolved in optimally bioavailable states/structure (the ph Perfect chelation of the nutrients). The important parts of pH Perfect are the nutrients passing through tissues (roots) and then cell walls and membranes, not the measured pH of nutrient water using a delivery system designed not to be affected by the pH). Once the nutes get into the root system, external pH is just that, outside the plant, irrelevant.
I haven't read it recently, but I presume this is explained in one of AN's classic propaganda pieces, its "pH Perfect Manifest" (http://herbgrow.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/pH-Manifesto.pdf).
AN advises to not add anything to PH perfect atleast the sensibloom and grow the three part i think it might be a bit safer I dont use the 3 part so really have no idea..... i assume its because what youre adding isnt chelated so the PH swings will render it ineffective or the opposite and cause a lockout
Actually, the reason for not adjusting pH is the opposite. The pH Perfect nutrients are chelated (bound in larger molecular complexes) for optimal bioavailability (delivery in usable form within cells and tissues), over a range of pH. The pH swings (using low ppm/EC water and minimizing salt/ionic additives) do not render the chelates ineffective, rather any pH swings (within the wide range set by AN) are irrelevant, don't affect the tissue/cellular bioavailability of the AN chelated nutrients, which is all that matters, with the chelated forms of minerals/salts used better entering cells/tissues
Chemistry- and plant physiology-wise, it's pretty crude and there is not much sense to making feed water pH match that of your medium. But other than using pH Perfect or equivalent with very low ppm/EC water, that's the only other or best option available to optimize nutrient bioavailablity.
IndicaIVoz
Deep Water Toker
More than likely its because your ppms are to high in flower ,what basically happens is each pheno/strain has its own Goldilocks zone,go to high and the plants suck more water to compensate heating up the mix as this happens the pH gets imbalanced the exact same can be said for to low ppms swinging ph.
Remember to top up nutes in flower ,you can get away with just water in early stages not later on for the reasons mentioned above.
Also remember plants plato in flower they don't need an increasingly hotter mix in fact they want slightly less in advanced flowing stage.
if this isnt the cause look into negative ion release by the roots when absorbing potassium. cheers mate hope this helps i had the same issue. ph perfect hobbiest user.
Ph perfect dosnt work in my soft water 50ppms for reasons unknow.I have an r/o unit now though just havnt tried it yet. However AN is great and to be honest i would check the Ph daily anyway so it dosnt bother me.
I'm of the school of thought that i don't want to smoke sugar. AN additives wont help the grow unless everything else is just right anyway. ps don't use cal-mag with sensi either you will more than likely see root stunting from to much cal or some type of lockout( i saw mag lock and root stunting).
Remember to top up nutes in flower ,you can get away with just water in early stages not later on for the reasons mentioned above.
Also remember plants plato in flower they don't need an increasingly hotter mix in fact they want slightly less in advanced flowing stage.
if this isnt the cause look into negative ion release by the roots when absorbing potassium. cheers mate hope this helps i had the same issue. ph perfect hobbiest user.
Ph perfect dosnt work in my soft water 50ppms for reasons unknow.I have an r/o unit now though just havnt tried it yet. However AN is great and to be honest i would check the Ph daily anyway so it dosnt bother me.
I'm of the school of thought that i don't want to smoke sugar. AN additives wont help the grow unless everything else is just right anyway. ps don't use cal-mag with sensi either you will more than likely see root stunting from to much cal or some type of lockout( i saw mag lock and root stunting).
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I use coco sensi in DWC which has even more cal/mag than the regular version and I still have to use extra calmag. My current grow has sucked more calmag than any other grow I've done before haha. I dunno if you use leds or not but they definitely require more calmag.
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