Bronze spots and fan leaf dying

[carnivore]

How far away is the light now?

 

[Myskellos]

Yes, repeat whenever the pot needs water.

Yes, The same excess nutrient condition would exist in the other pots fed too much. I would treat all plants with the low PPM and run-off.

Ok I will do the same to the quick one. In the meanwhile the Fat Banana has a healtier aspect, the leaves point towards the light well opened and the stems seems straight and not droopy. Maybe it's just wishful thinking...

How far away is the light now?

About 55 cm away from canopy.

 

[carnivore]

so less than 2ft away from the plant and on full power?

I don't know how good your light is (so I could be wrong, someone with the same light might know better) but, it seems very close to me, maybe 2 ft away in full bloom and a packed tent. I would put that light at the top of my tent, let your plants grow into the light and lower if you need to (guessing your in a 2x4x5 or 6).

Things that make this a light problem to me.
1. really super tight node spacing.
2. lower leaves are nice and fat, upper leaves are super skinny and not wanting to grow bigger. (trying to hide from the light)
3. the leaves are not nitrogen clawed, they are curled over, some are twisting over. (trying to hide from the light)

I'm not saying it's not over fed, or had the wrong PH.

My advice would be, ask around other growers how close they put the same light.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

so less than 2ft away from the plant and on full power?

I don't know how good your light is (so I could be wrong, someone with the same light might know better) but, it seems very close to me, maybe 2 ft away in full bloom and a packed tent. I would put that light at the top of my tent, let your plants grow into the light and lower if you need to (guessing your in a 2x4x5 or 6).

Things that make this a light problem to me.
1. really super tight node spacing.
2. lower leaves are nice and fat, upper leaves are super skinny and not wanting to grow bigger. (trying to hide from the light)
3. the leaves are not nitrogen clawed, they are curled over, some are twisting over. (trying to hide from the light)

I'm not saying it's not over fed, or had the wrong PH.

My advice would be, ask around other growers how close they put the same light.

@carnivore I have 2 500w Chilled Growcraft lights that produce 2230PPFD at full power at 6 inches. I grew some Ace Panama Red that at times was within 3 inches and no light burn. Unless you are running HID you would have to touch the chips to get light burn. It is a myth with LED.

 

[Tom Bombadil]

I tend to see a lot of "I used bio biz lite and my leaves are damaged" posts in here lately

hmmmmm

 

[carnivore]

Personally, I wouldn't compare full grown plants that are healthy to a tiny little plant that isn't bigger than the pot. there is no canopy in that tent.

I agree with bill.de.cat. who posted on the first page, maybe not on defoliating them, but on the the root cause of the problem.

 

[DCLXVI]

I tend to see a lot of "I used bio biz lite and my leaves are damaged" posts in here lately

I have noticed that also, and I too used BB Lite Mix and had some similar issues. I think a lot of us are attempting to loosely or closely follow the autobeast guide but are missing some key facts. I know mine was a first grow so I expected to learn a lot on the way and definitely make mistakes. Water is so variable for everyone I was not ready to need a ppm/ec meter. I think this guy also got caught off guard by high ppm water to start and then mixing in nutes pretty early and probably too hot for an auto.

That said, I only watered for the first 3 weeks in Lite Mix and the plants looked great. It has plenty of stuff in it to get started. I over did the feed schedule because I didn't know what to measure or look for. I think @Myskellos should definitely follow the very light feeding and watering ManOGreen set him up with. Past that, I think the Lite Mix is a lot "hotter" than it sounds like it is. The feed water water routine even though BB says to feed every time would probably work better. Especially since a lot of us new guys, myself included, don't catch that all the feed schedules are for photos and that autos really need wayyyy less. Even when you think you've read enough to try it, there is always a nice spot like that to mess it up for you. (I count myself in not knowing that and burning the heck out of my plant)

 

[Myskellos]

so less than 2ft away from the plant and on full power?

I don't know how good your light is (so I could be wrong, someone with the same light might know better) but, it seems very close to me, maybe 2 ft away in full bloom and a packed tent. I would put that light at the top of my tent, let your plants grow into the light and lower if you need to (guessing your in a 2x4x5 or 6).

Things that make this a light problem to me.
1. really super tight node spacing.
2. lower leaves are nice and fat, upper leaves are super skinny and not wanting to grow bigger. (trying to hide from the light)
3. the leaves are not nitrogen clawed, they are curled over, some are twisting over. (trying to hide from the light)

I'm not saying it's not over fed, or had the wrong PH.

My advice would be, ask around other growers how close they put the same light.

In the user manual of the Marshydro TS1000 is suggested a height of 18-24 inches (45-60 cm), so I was sticking to it. But you make some good point. I will raise up a little bit. My tent by the way is 2.3'x2.3'x5.2'.

[...] Unless you are running HID you would have to touch the chips to get light burn. It is a myth with LED.

As far as I know it's basically impossible to burn the plant with a LED light, if we talk about 'temperature' burn. But would it be possible to 'light burn' them in the sense of giving them too much light? I mean, I know that there is a certain Daily Light Integral quantity that poses an upper limit to the light the plant can intake. I didn't do the math, but it's a realistic thing to go beyond this maximum DLI? What would be the consequences of this light exceeding?

I have noticed that also, and I too used BB Lite Mix and had some similar issues. I think a lot of us are attempting to loosely or closely follow the autobeast guide but are missing some key facts. I know mine was a first grow so I expected to learn a lot on the way and definitely make mistakes. Water is so variable for everyone I was not ready to need a ppm/ec meter. I think this guy also got caught off guard by high ppm water to start and then mixing in nutes pretty early and probably too hot for an auto.

That said, I only watered for the first 3 weeks in Lite Mix and the plants looked great. It has plenty of stuff in it to get started. I over did the feed schedule because I didn't know what to measure or look for. I think @Myskellos should definitely follow the very light feeding and watering ManOGreen set him up with. Past that, I think the Lite Mix is a lot "hotter" than it sounds like it is. The feed water water routine even though BB says to feed every time would probably work better. Especially since a lot of us new guys, myself included, don't catch that all the feed schedules are for photos and that autos really need wayyyy less. Even when you think you've read enough to try it, there is always a nice spot like that to mess it up for you. (I count myself in not knowing that and burning the heck out of my plant)

I don't know how frequently are those issues with the BB light mix, since I'm new in the game. I skimmed the autobeast thread, but I didn't follow it for several reasons, being: different line of nutes suggested while I already bought the biobizz trypack indoor, he's topping the plants while I don't, he has ton of experience and might use a growing style that doesn't really fit the noobs like me.

To be honest I had to buy the RQS "Easy Grow" tablets, but I didn't and ordered only the Easy Bloom and Easy Boost, which are pretty useless without the main nute (EasyGrow). So I bought the Biobizz trypack indoor. I started on 2nd week from sprouting giving a very little dose of nute (40%) but I didn't pay much attention to the pH since the refrain is "you don't have to ph if you go organic" blah blah. Maybe it holds true, but my water is pretty hard and things went out of control, also I went overboard with nutes because it looked like a P def. This has definitely taught me something !

However, on my partial defense, the 'Marijuana Grower Handbook' from Ed Rosenthal is more loose on the water alkalinity. He even suggest to add CalMag if your water is up to 140 ppm. I was like 'well, 336 ppm.. very close to 320 ppm, it would be ok'. Plow twist: it wasn't

 

[low_and_slow]

I know that there is a certain Daily Light Integral quantity that poses an upper limit to the light the plant can intake. I didn't do the math, but it's a realistic thing to go beyond this maximum DLI? What would be the consequences of this light exceeding?

There is only a DLI limit if your other 8 variables are not sufficient to account for the energy. Cannabis more or less has no upper DLI limit assuming the environment is perfect.

The 8 variables include:
CO2 concentration
Wind/Air movement
Temperature of the air
Relative humidity of air
Temp of the root zone
O2 in the root zone
Water in the root zone
Nutrients in the root zone

DLI is only restricted if you cannot keep those other parameters optimized. Otherwise, cannabis has been shown to provide increasing yields all the way through 70 DLI...

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Cannabis needs a minimum of 28 DLI and can use up to 60 DLI but there is a point of diminishing returns that starts after 40 without CO² and after 50 with CO². The price you pay for energy applies to the diminishing return numbers.