mephisto
AFN Authorized Vendor
Hey guys,
As we are getting to that time with this latest seedrun, I thought I would journal the process for you all to see.
Firstly is the live plant, well seeded. It's a toof decay containing limited edition seeds. This strain colours up very nicely, especially under cooler conditions due the blueberry in her. Also despite heavy feedings of N, the plant has sucked up it's last nutrient resources to feed the seeds.
Under different lighting, you can see that she has a heavy resin coverage, and in particular she has long stalked trichomes.
Lots of trichomes for extraction (which will come later)
Below you can see that the seeded calyx's have split, allowing a glimpse at the ripe seeds.
Not all strains will do this when seeded, some will keep their seeds wrapped tightly, but you will usually see a colour change to a yellow then golden brown which is a great indication that the seed within is ripe. In this case you can pluck the seed out to check it's maturity. It's important (if in the grow room) to check the seed under natural lighting to really assess it's colour and appearance. It's strain dependant but dark, hard, shiny and with mottling is what we look for as indications of a high quality seed.
It's a wise idea to check different areas of the plant, as seeds *may* have developed at slightly different rates.
Also, date when you pollinated. The minimum time we would allow is one full month running 18/6, but 5 weeks from pollination is generally the time we see ripe, nice seeds with autoflower seed making. Full plants/extremely heavily seeded plants can take slightly longer, and of course photoperiods are given a longer time allowance still.
When we are satisfied after the above steps ^ we remove any large fan leaves and chop the branches into sections but keeping them on the stalk. This goes on to brown parcel paper for drying. Our dryshelfs are the fabric mesh hanging type, with inconveniently seed sized holes
If the strain produces small seeds, they can slip through these holes. Mosquito/insect mesh, you can fabricate a drying rack that is more failsafe, but The brown paper works fine for us. Seeds can pop loose as the buds dry, so bare that in mind.
Brown paper is also good, as the details can be written on straight away, and it saves potential mix ups from little bits of paper going awry.
If you are doing multiple strains, and regular and fem, you really don't want to lose track of what seeded buds are from what. As for us, non identifiable seeds = waste, and destined for the bin.
Important information is noted, which plant, pollinated with what, dates are important!
We like to dry our seeded buds, not too quickly, and not too slowly. From when the plant is chopped the seeds still change and ripen within the buds. Too slowly and too wet inside the buds, the seeds can crack and split in preparation for germinating. You don't want that!
About 1 week at a nice constant drying environment is a good medium.
These are now drying - Toof decay x ghost limited edition.
I will do another live update for the next process in about a weeks time.
Cheers, Mitch!
As we are getting to that time with this latest seedrun, I thought I would journal the process for you all to see.
Firstly is the live plant, well seeded. It's a toof decay containing limited edition seeds. This strain colours up very nicely, especially under cooler conditions due the blueberry in her. Also despite heavy feedings of N, the plant has sucked up it's last nutrient resources to feed the seeds.
Under different lighting, you can see that she has a heavy resin coverage, and in particular she has long stalked trichomes.
Lots of trichomes for extraction (which will come later)
Below you can see that the seeded calyx's have split, allowing a glimpse at the ripe seeds.
Not all strains will do this when seeded, some will keep their seeds wrapped tightly, but you will usually see a colour change to a yellow then golden brown which is a great indication that the seed within is ripe. In this case you can pluck the seed out to check it's maturity. It's important (if in the grow room) to check the seed under natural lighting to really assess it's colour and appearance. It's strain dependant but dark, hard, shiny and with mottling is what we look for as indications of a high quality seed.
It's a wise idea to check different areas of the plant, as seeds *may* have developed at slightly different rates.
Also, date when you pollinated. The minimum time we would allow is one full month running 18/6, but 5 weeks from pollination is generally the time we see ripe, nice seeds with autoflower seed making. Full plants/extremely heavily seeded plants can take slightly longer, and of course photoperiods are given a longer time allowance still.
When we are satisfied after the above steps ^ we remove any large fan leaves and chop the branches into sections but keeping them on the stalk. This goes on to brown parcel paper for drying. Our dryshelfs are the fabric mesh hanging type, with inconveniently seed sized holes
If the strain produces small seeds, they can slip through these holes. Mosquito/insect mesh, you can fabricate a drying rack that is more failsafe, but The brown paper works fine for us. Seeds can pop loose as the buds dry, so bare that in mind.
Brown paper is also good, as the details can be written on straight away, and it saves potential mix ups from little bits of paper going awry.
If you are doing multiple strains, and regular and fem, you really don't want to lose track of what seeded buds are from what. As for us, non identifiable seeds = waste, and destined for the bin.
Important information is noted, which plant, pollinated with what, dates are important!
We like to dry our seeded buds, not too quickly, and not too slowly. From when the plant is chopped the seeds still change and ripen within the buds. Too slowly and too wet inside the buds, the seeds can crack and split in preparation for germinating. You don't want that!
About 1 week at a nice constant drying environment is a good medium.
These are now drying - Toof decay x ghost limited edition.
I will do another live update for the next process in about a weeks time.
Cheers, Mitch!
Last edited:
