Droopy gal ? Overwater/fed /light? 🤷🏻

Glassfarm

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Darkowl -Marathon OG
Fed Day 18
5x5 with HLG 350 r spec dialed to 140 watts and an HLG 100 v2 4k
Temps 79-84*f
rH around 66-70 %

In 3 gal rainscience with 70 % coco 30% roots organics soil)
1 gallon bottled spring water
First feeding of half strength floraflex autoflower feeding schedule. 1.5 g V1 1.2 g
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V2
.5ml powerSi
pH to 6.1
5 ml SlF100
.5 tsp recharge
PPM going in was around 710 I didn't get a runoff PPM but I'm assuming it was over 1000 with the soil being charged still.

This was the first time I soaked the pot and watered other then spray bottle. She took the whole gallon before run off.
It's been 3 days and she's still droopy and her new growth seem to be "tacoing"

Should I just water for the next few cycles to flush out remaining? Pota still pretty soaked after 3 days even with 70% coco. Should I be worried about lockout?

Thanks yall 👊🏼
 
@Glassfarm :welcome: Welcome to AFN :welcome:.

I think a couple of units of measure need to be met to help diagnose the potential issue Tacoing is usually environmental so a better measure for light would be PPFD or DLI, the problem with watts is all lights are not equally efficient. I use an APP called Photone, it is not expensive and will give you a better base line to work with.

Temperature, RH, Air Exchange and movement are the next parts to the environment that add up to a happy environment or a torture chamber. Trust me I have tortured more than one plant :haha:

Your temps look ok.
Try to get your RH down to around 60% if you can.
Don't have a fan blowing directly on the plant if it is stationary or too windy.

You may not be watering/fertigating enough?

That soil mixture you are running is going to be difficult to keep in balance because the coco is going to need run-off but the soil will lose its value as soil if you run too much water through it? I am sure it can be done but I am not one of them. Read what I mean about "Balanced" nutrients here:



What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Make sure there is an air gap under your pot, you do not want runoff to be reabsorbed and if no air then anaerobic microbes can grow. This is a cause of root rot. Coco can be fertigate many times a day if you want to continually present fresh balanced nutrients to the roots. Begin fertigation 2 hours after lights on and end it 2 hours before lights out.

BUT if you are going to treat your pots like coco 70%? then you need a different strategy than the above.

:toke:
 
@Glassfarm :welcome: Welcome to AFN :welcome:.

I think a couple of units of measure need to be met to help diagnose the potential issue Tacoing is usually environmental so a better measure for light would be PPFD or DLI, the problem with watts is all lights are not equally efficient. I use an APP called Photone, it is not expensive and will give you a better base line to work with.

Temperature, RH, Air Exchange and movement are the next parts to the environment that add up to a happy environment or a torture chamber. Trust me I have tortured more than one plant :haha:

Your temps look ok.
Try to get your RH down to around 60% if you can.
Don't have a fan blowing directly on the plant if it is stationary or too windy.

You may not be watering/fertigating enough?

That soil mixture you are running is going to be difficult to keep in balance because the coco is going to need run-off but the soil will lose its value as soil if you run too much water through it? I am sure it can be done but I am not one of them. Read what I mean about "Balanced" nutrients here:



What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Make sure there is an air gap under your pot, you do not want runoff to be reabsorbed and if no air then anaerobic microbes can grow. This is a cause of root rot. Coco can be fertigate many times a day if you want to continually present fresh balanced nutrients to the roots. Begin fertigation 2 hours after lights on and end it 2 hours before lights out.

BUT if you are going to treat your pots like coco 70%? then you need a different strategy than the above.

:toke:
Hey thanks for the info! I appreciate your time.
I have been using the photone app have the light progressively dialig up to around 27-29 DLI on day 22/23 currently. I'm using the pulse app that shows VPD average around 1.1 I'll turn the humidifier down to hit closer to 60 as it does seem to be high. Could be why the pots are taking longer to dry out. I have my ac infinity exhaust set to 5 which is half way, fresh air from a window with fan pulling air in from bottom of tent.

I ran into an issue today watering one of them. I took a ppm runoff that was wayyy to high around 4000. I flushed it down to around 400 and gave it some nutrients going on at around 800ppm. Calmag, floraflex, powersi , recharge and slf 100. I assumed flushing basically took the remaining nutrients from the soil out so I figured it was safe to add some back at that point. Hopefully she will bounce back but probably won't be a very fruitful plant. I'm thinking I should have waited another week or so before adding nutrients. Soil was way to charged up. Also worth noting the ph is around 6-6.1
👊🏼
 
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