DWC lessons I learnt the hard way.

Hey All,


I have 3yrs on and off experience with DWC.


Here are a list of some of the lessons I have learnt on my journey. Most of these I have learnt the hard way, and I want to pass what I know on so nobody runs into the same issues I have.
Some of these will bleed into each other. If one goes wrong its likely another will follow.


1) PH. Check PH every day or so. You want to maintain as close to 5.8 as you can. As it can fluctuate a bit, which is fine to a degree. If it's continously rising over a few days, consider the solution temperature. Which leads me on to number 2.


2) Solution temperature. Optimal range is 18-20c, which can be a challenge. Specially when the tent environment is a fair bit higher and the buckets are usually black (which they need to be to cut out light into the solution. If light leaks into the solution you could get algae growing in there). All these thing can increase the solution temp to levels that are not great for the root system.
A DIY solution is to make thermal jackets out of reflective bubble wrap. This will help reflect the light and maintain a lower temperature. If this is still not enough. Consider placing an ice pack between the bucket and the jacket. DO NOT put ice in the solution. You will freeze shock the roots!!


3) Air. In my experience the more air the better. I'm currently running 2 coke can size air stones in each DWC bucket. The air pump is designed for 30l/per min. I would recommend getting a good air pump. I have ran 1 puck size air stone off a cheap pump and the noise is one thing, but the air flow is shockingly bad. Buy cheap pay twice.


4) Cleanliness. Start as sterile as possible, any baddies in there at the start will continue to get worse as time goes on. An example that happened to me... I reused some air stones from a previous grow, with in one week of the grow the where signs and smells of root rot. My worst enemy!
This means clean them buckets, lids, cages and piping every grow.


5) Nutrients. Stay light with them. A half of the manufacturer recommended is normally more than enough. You can always add more, taking away is alot more difficult and costly.


6) Pumps. Unless your really penny pinching. I would recommend getting a couple of small water pumps. One for the DWC bucket and one for a bucket you will use for new water or feed.
The idea behind this is to keep the buckets stationary for the entire grow. Having to lift and refill every week is not ideal.


7)The start. I only have experience in root riot sponges for germination. So far I have a 95% success rate. Although seed genetics would also play a part in this. Buy the best for the best results.
Anomalies in early growth can be common. I think this is normally due to me letting the roots/ plant develop too much prior to placing into the dwc cage.
My guess. Yet to be confirmed, is that the faster the sponge/ rock wool is in its final place; the less likely any form of shock of stunt happens.


8) Neglect. Seems obvious but is easily done. As long as life permits, stay on top of all aspects of the science. Complacency leads to failure.


9) Calibration. PPM wands or PH meters are a god send. But be careful. To be precise, calibrate regularly.


10) Chlorine. Most tap water is treated with chemicals to keep it "safe for human consumption". This generally means treated with Chlorine amongst other chemicals. Airing the water for 24+ hours can reduce alot if not all the chemicals. Chlorine will kill microbes that are beneficial in your feed.


11) anyone else want to add some findings/lessons....

I know if missed some stuff.

Good luck and keep growing and learning
 
I want to mention Hydroguard. I have zero experience with this. However I have only heard good things.
In basic terms its a solution of microbes that feed on the shit that like to form root rot. This will pretty much stop any root rot from temp rises or pesky bacteria thats been missed in cleaning.
Magic juice :worship:

I am testing Advanced Nutrients Tarantula atm, which on paper has the same microbes in it. But my god is it pricey.

If your in the the UK good luck finding it in stock after brexit. If you are a Sherlock Holmes of the Internet and find some in stock.... SHOW ME ASAP :thanks:
 
I want to mention Hydroguard. I have zero experience with this. However I have only heard good things.
In basic terms its a solution of microbes that feed on the shit that like to form root rot. This will pretty much stop any root rot from temp rises or pesky bacteria thats been missed in cleaning.
Magic juice :worship:

I am testing Advanced Nutrients Tarantula atm, which on paper has the same microbes in it. But my god is it pricey.

If your in the the UK good luck finding it in stock after brexit. If you are a Sherlock Holmes of the Internet and find some in stock.... SHOW ME ASAP :thanks:
Just found this, been thinking about dipping my toe into the DWC pool and see how it goes. I know I’m gonna be one of those people that need a book… “DWC for dummies” lol
 
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Getting ready to give it another go Only been 10 years.:smoking:

I got the Southern Ag same bacteria as hydro guard much cheaper. Also looking at Tribus not so cheap.
 
Hey @CCNUGZ thanks for the post. You may want to check out Deep Water Culture Basics - Bubbleponics | The Autoflower Network for more information.

My .02:

I run res temps between 75-79 deg F without root issues using Hydroguard. I have used a variety of different bacterial inoculation products (Hydroguard, Great White, Orca, Recharge, etc) and have found that Hydroguard (with its single strain) works best. I believe establishing a monoculture of inoculated Bacillus amyloliquefaciens outcompetes pythium and its allies more effectively than a diverse Rhizosphere using multiple strains (counter-intuitively and contra soil and other methodologies). Some use Southern AG's fungicide as a cheaper substitute for Hydroguard and report good results.

Ph Check - if running a single res I check pH multiple times a day if possible, especially in flower. I have seen pH swings from 5.7to 6.6 in 6 hours with a big plant in flower.

Nutrients - balance is as important as overall EC level, but generally agree most autos develop issues over 1.3 or 1.4. Chek out MoG's post on this.

Generally agree with the rest. I would add not to assume you only have chlorine. Many water systems use chloramine which cannot be diffused out. Most RO units do not remove it. Consider ascorbic acid - 50mg treats 1Gallon. at 3.4PPM of chloramines- or Seachem Prime.

Good post man.

IMHO, YMMV, etc.
 
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