First Grow: Amnesia Haze - Indoor Soil Fox Farms Liquid Nutrients

Joined
Feb 16, 2024
Messages
2
Reputation
10
Reaction score
14
Points
0
Hey,


Beaverdam320 here…This will be my first grow ever. Short background on how I got here is finally convincing my significant other that growing cannabis is a safe, therapeutic and mature way of biding my time. My Christmas gift for this year…resulting in a pack of seeds - Crop Kings: Amnesia Haze, a brick of coco coir, a starter pack of Growth Science Nutrients, and a 5gal. plastic pot. Things escalated quickly from there as this has always been a passion of mine that I have been unable to fulfill due to a plethora of factors. Nevertheless here I am today starting a documented log of my journey at day day 11 (seedling stage) of my first grow.

How it began:

After being gifted the starting items to begin a grow, I started with researching the seed, growing media, and nutrients. I stumbled upon AC Infinity and purchased what essentially is offered as a kit on the AC Infinity website, however this was a custom kit built and ordered thru Amazon. I had a grow space that I wanted to utilize in my office room closet being at 24” x 36”, which AC Infinity offers but not as a standard grow system. So…I assembled it on my own: Cloudlab 632, AC Infinity Ionboard S22, Controller 69 Pro, and Cloudline Pro T4 with carbon filter.

As soon as these items showed up I assembled in my closet and began dry run testing to baseline temperature and humidity within my environment. I then played with the Controller 69 Pro to understand its functionality and automation capabilities within the grow environment/process. The natural environment I have in my household provides a temperature of roughly 60F with a humidity of roughly 35% . Research thus far has lead me to believe that a higher humidity and temperature was optimal for growth within all stages of the process - leading me to pre-order a humidifier from AC Infinity (Cloudforge T3, yet to ship) and a new wifi space heater (Govee Smart Space Heater H7131) from Amazon. What this allowed me to do was raise the temperature in the grow tent and manage humidity. I have thus far resolved temperature. Humidity I am currently using a dome above my seedling and calling that good. Initially I had started with a humidifier that cannot currently be remotely controlled and does not have a humidity setting, rather, an on/off switch. That said I was able to achieve higher and targeted humidity but by using the room outside the tent to pull that in. Having the humidifier directly in the tent and running constantly would be just too much, yet at the same time having it in the room using it as a lung was getting everything else in my office too high in humidity. So…thus the humidity dome, which to be honest is the top to a DairyQueen Blizzard!

Soil was my next issue to address alongside figuring out the best method to germinating a seed. I will get to my germination experience later but for now I will address the growing media. After a long search on various growing methods I settled on soil. To be specific I chose Fox Farms, which as I type this I have learned more about since making that decision and realize this is pretty common amongst beginner growers. That said, no regrets here thus far, going to ride it out and enjoy it. The coco brick my significant other purchased me has been tossed off to the side…for now! Why you may ask? I guess after researching I just decided that being at the experience level I am at and familiarity with growing plants that a soil grow would be best for my first time around. The decision was made with such ease that I can’t actually say I delved into the information deep enough to know whether that brick of coco is of high quality or not, leaning and assuming more towards it being of lower quality or requiring more effort than I am willing to put forth on getting it to a state which I can use it successfully for its intended purpose. So…Fox Farms. I watched a lot of YouTube Videos and came across @420Scene on YouTube. I procured his recipe for Fox Farms: bottom half of pot - strawberry fields mixed with 20% perlite, top half of pot - 50/50 mix of ocean forest and happy frogs.

At a date later in time prior to starting my grow I purchased an oscillating fan: AC Infinity Cloudray S6 to complete my automated setup. Still waiting on the humidifier, expected to ship on March 20.

Germination:

Amidst all of my self educating and information gathering I went ahead and germinated my first seed. First starting in a cup of tap water. The seed floated roughly 36 hours before sinking to the bottom of the cup. At which point I transferred to a paper towel and sealed it in a ziploc bag. First mistake here…sealing the ziploc bag which didn’t allow the bag to breathe. It ended up taking 5 days to observe/get the taproot to .5” which I thought was a bit long.

Side note here…back in college I attempted to grow weed under my desk in my bedroom with a bag seed I procured from consumption. I followed the paper towel method and saw results within 2 days to the point that the taproot was .5” long so I assumed here that was the case for all seeds. This grow didn’t fully propagate, I terminated growth when the plant reached its 4th node due to concern and paranoia about the smell. At which point in time this was illegal where I lived.

Seedling:

As it sits today I am at day 11 within the grow and I have a seedling. So far…things look healthy. Gut check tells me growth so far in this stage is a bit slow and has me questioning media, watering amount, light cycle and strength, humidity, temperature, etc. It’s so early in the process and I am being exposed to so much new information right now that I am a bit overwhelmed. My seedling I should note is nestled inside a shot glass size of starter potting soil with essentially very little nutritional value. Concept here being that the cotyledons are feeding the seedling at this stage and don’t really need anything additional.

Lighting with my AC Infinity Ionboard S22 has me at 40% power and 1.5’ above the canopy of the plant per the manual. I am running 18/6 and plan to do so throughout the grow. I’ve researched and question at this point what future yields behold me at the end of this journey but am hoping to follow the concept of grams/watt for my first grow to some extent. I don’t yet see my seedling “stretching towards the light” suggesting I don’t need to make a change. Exhaust is at 10% and fan is at 10% oscillating…

Ahead of me:

Next steps for me have me wondering whether or not I should use the liquid nutrients I was gifted. Or should I go the organic route? If so, what do I order? Lots of research has told me that using the KISS method and not over doing it/micro-managing this project is how I should go about it but in the same breadth I don’t want it to be subpar. Leaning towards using what was gifted to me but wondering what else I am missing?

I purchased a pH meter assuming that my tap water was not optimal. Understanding that a pH somewhere between 6-7 is ideal I currently sit at 7.5. Purchased one of each: Apera AI209 and AI314 for testing pH and EC/TDS/PPM. Current assumptions have me targeting a pH level of 6.5 (safe area to be in) after mixing all nutrients if I go the liquid (synthetic) route and feed the plant rather than the soil using the dry amendments method. Also have an air pump to extract chlorine from the tap water in a 5gal bucket 24 hours prior to blending. Then I basically understand that you follow the instructions on the liquid nutrients kit for the stage you are in, don’t go the full dosage for the beginning (planning to start at 25%) and work my way up looking at signs from the plant to tell me whether I need more or less. Starting at the veg stage with that when I start to see signs of nutrient deficiency. Addressing pH after mixing nutrients per spec using General Hydrophonics pH up and pH down. Lastly ahead of me here is how much to water when I start that? Assuming to follow same concept of when the soil is dry and feeding once per week, watering normal for the rest possibly with CalMag added to standard waterings.

Once I start feeding nutrients I have this other tester AI314 to look at EC/TDS/PPM of the runoff in the tray below the pot and use that to determine if I am using too much or too little nutrients during my feedings. I am using an 3gal fabric pot from AC Infinity. And that is about where I stop thus far in my journey! I’ve got to imagine that at some point in this process folks out there reading this will be able to relate and contribute…looking forward to seeing where this forum thread takes me.

Cheers guys, Beaverdam320!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0227.jpeg
    IMG_0227.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 19
Well at least your starting. As far as your soil, I use HF/perlite exclusively, too many reports of OF being a bit hot for seedlings and not sure about SF. The ferts in HF are good for about 5 to 7 weeks before needing suppliment and by then autos are into flowering ( not sure if your running auto or photo ). Best advise I can think of is to keep it as simple as you can for your first few grows. The less you have added to the process, the less you have to worry about when trying to diagnose any problems.
Germination, while some, even you it seems, have had success with the paper towel method I never have. All I do is drop em in a shot glass of water with a few drops of H202 and set it on the Dish box with a small box over it. Root times have varied from 1 day to 4 days to get 1/4 to 1/2 inch root. At which point I plant them.
One of the more inconsistant things we deal with as growers is water quality. Do your best to figure out what you have. Since I am on a limestone aquifer for my well my first grow was a mess till MoG pointed out it was all the calcium in my water that was most likely causing the issues. I now use 1/2 RO and 1/2 well water which gets me to a good point with available calcium and pH level.
Good Luck and keep us posted.
 
@Beaverdam320 :welcome: Welcome to AFN:welcome: You are off to a flying start! It is great that you are willing to study and learn new things. There are a million ways to grow cannabis and no two growers will use all of the same methods. Almost all of them work to get you to harvest. Some will provide better results.

You do not state if the Crop King Amnesia Haze is an Autoflowering or Photoperiod seed? If it is a photoperiod plant you need to go to 12/12 before that seedling is 2 weeks old or it will not fit in your closet!

The first thing you need to learn is how to water that pot and why:

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Make sure there is an air gap under your pot, you do not want runoff to be reabsorbed and if no air then anaerobic microbes can grow. This is a cause of root rot.

If you have a smart phone (who doesn't) download the Photone App and learn how to calibrate it for your phone It will be invaluable in adjusting your light for the growth stage you are in. Learn about DLI.

dli.jpeg


You need to understand water.

I think you could spend your life studying water - seriously. But lets just keep it simple. First we need good tools. Three things we are concerned with PH, Salinity and Chloramines? A EC meter will tell you the salts (dissolved solids). Most nutrients you can get made for cannabis can work with starting water <200 PPM, Advanced Nutrients wants <10 PPM. Some nutrient vendors make a high PPM base fertilizer up to 300PPM. Generally speaking <200 PPM and you are good for tap water. If you are over this you need to blend in RO or DI water to get it under 200 PPM. If you are less than 50 PPM you may need to add some Soluble Gypsum to bring it up to 50 PPM. Ok a $10 TDS meter can tell you this but It is not good for testing nutrient levels for that you need an EC meter and good ones cost more. An EC meter will also measure TDS.

Next is Chloramines. Chloramines are formed when municipal water is treated with chlorine AND ammonia to sanitize the water. Check your local water report and look for ammonia in the sanitizer portion. Chloramines do not dissipate in the air and they are not good for your grow environment. It is very easy to treat for it. Just use ascorbic acid.

Chloramines Removal

You are looking for ascorbic acid - vitamin C. The store brand is usually the cheapest without other stuff added in. 50mg per gallon will treat water with 3.8 PPM of chloramines. This is the common strength used to sanitize water.

You really only need to check the PH of your substrate if you are having a problem. Just make sure you fertigate/water with the proper PH going in for the substrate you are using.


For a basic understanding of salt fertilizers go here:


It is hard to control the RH in a small space. it will be low until the plant gets some growth and then it will get high from the transpiration of the plant.

There is so much more but I think this will help you get down the road.

Tag me with any questions you may have. you do that by typing the AT sign @ in front of my name.

:goodluck:

:toke:
 
Good evening everyone! It’s been awhile since my first posting but I wanted to bring everyone up to speed on where I am at with my first grow. First of all I’d like to thank @Bill.de.Cat and @Mañ'O'Green for your input on my current progress, this has been helpful! I am now a little over three weeks since I first placed my seed into a cup of water and am into the vegetative stage of my grow. The past several days I have seen an uptick in growth that I have attributed to two things: light and watering adjustments. That being said I still feel a bit behind the 8ball compared to where it seems it should be based on what I have read and viewed in my research.

Light: As originally stated in my first posting, my light settings were at 40% power, 1.5’ above the canopy. I made an adjustment about 5 days ago to 70%, same distance above the canopy. In the first photo, which I will attach below you will see that the first node of leaves after the fan leaves has some disfiguring to it. I am suspecting two possibilities here and looking for some input - 1.) old seeds perhaps? 2.) lighting?

Watering: At the same time I made an adjustment to the lighting I also started doing my pH testing, to which I found that my household water was actually running higher that I expected to see it, around 8.5. I have since been adjusting down to 6.5 and watering about every other day when the soil appears dry, roughly a liter of water.

The second photo I am attaching is something I noticed today (yellow leaf), a bit of yellowing on the second node of leaves shown. Wondering what this may indicate or if I am being a bit premature in assuming there is an issue. Planning to give this a day or so to see how it looks but nevertheless I have myself somewhat prepared to address a few different issues.

Nutrients: I purchased an Apera Instruments AI314 EC/TDS/Salinity tester and took some initial readings of my tap water to which I do not yet understand fully on whether they are in an acceptable range or not. Readings as indicated on the tester itself are -

Cond: 793uS
TDS: 573ppm
Sal: .40ppt

Ahead: I’m going to need to do some more research here as things continue to progress at a faster rate. Needing to get prepped for nutrient feeding once I start to see signs of deficiency, which may already be starting (kind of early if the second photo suggests so)? Also want to start looking into the flowering phase and understanding what to do once I near the end of my grow with respect to flushing. I’m not as concerned about drying at the moment. Also started researching my next seeds to purchase - breeder, strain, etc.

Also for @Bill.de.Cat and @Mañ'O'Green this is an autoflower. Not sure if it’s feminized or not, package does not indicate. Hope it is a female though because I only germinated one! Thanks guys, cheers!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0310.jpeg
    IMG_0310.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 11
  • IMG_0303.jpeg
    IMG_0303.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 12
The deformation on the plant looks genetic to me? Start the clock from when the plant has it's first set of leaves not when you put the seed in water. Do not compare your plant to others, look only at the one you are growing. It does not need fertilizer yet. I thought I explained watering to you?

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Make sure there is an air gap under your pot, you do not want runoff to be reabsorbed and if no air then anaerobic microbes can grow. This is a cause of root rot.

Your meter readings do not make sense? Did you calibrate it? Show pictures of the readings and cycle through the modes. You generally do not need salinity info unless your water is really bad, can you taste salt in your tap water? Do you have a water softener on the house? If your water is really 573 PPM that will not grow cannabis.

Don't guess about your light DLI Get the Photone App for your phone.

:toke:
 
Back
Top