New Grower First Grow Journal- Northern Light Auto

From what I understand, you can not add any more nutes to that soil till you have corrected the ph. You are on a lock out at this time. The only thing that will happen is toxins will build up as well. When you flushed, what was the water that you flushed with? And did you check the PH level of you water that you was flushing with as well.

"One of the first signs of having a slight ph problem is, your plant having part of the leaves kind of twisty, spotty with brown, yellowish, red spots within each other.
Sometimes they don’t have to have all the colors, they could just be spots that have yellowish brown, or just reddish brown and can happen anywhere on the plant. Mainly starts on big fan leaves then goes to little leaves.
When this happens you need to check your soil ph, water ph before and after adding your nutrients. One of the biggest causes is adding nutrients like earth juice; they take the ph down quite a bit. Also can happen when you add bone and blood meal to your soil, that will throw the ph off as well, so it’s smart to test the mix before putting your plants into the mix. After the spots happen you will soon see nutrients being locked out, when that happens DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO FIX THE PROBLEM UNTILL YOU GET YOUR PH FIXED!! Reason why is, because the plant isn’t absorbing that nutrient, by adding the nutrient it is deficient in, you are causing it to have a build up in the soil therefore can cause that nutrient to become toxic to the plant, because of buildup, to much buildup of certain nutrients will lock out other nutrients. In order to fix the problem you will need to first fix the ph and then if the soil is deficient in nutrients you can add it to fix the problem. A digital PH tester is the best tester to use as they are the most accurate. If you can’t afford a digital ph meter, then your best bet is to get ph testing papers. DO NOT get soil testers, those are the cheapest junk I ever seen and do not give good readings, so you cant rely on one of those. There are a lot of good ph testers out there, one of them is hanna. That is the one I use and is the best money ever spent! Vast majority of problems with soil ph comes from the soil if it has additives like peat moss, which is HILGY acidic..... and or the water you are using, as well as nutrient deficiencies from using the wrong ph for watering. You want to be careful when adjusting your ph, doing this over a week is the best idea, to fast will cause shock to the plant. If you can’t get a hold of a ph tester or ph test papers. If you have some dolomite lime, its always better to use it in soil rather than every time you water, imo and from others (Uncle Ben) That it really doesn’t stabilize as many people think it does, Soil pH and micronutrient availability are interrelated. Don’t Use to much lime to decrease the soil pH to a point where micronutrients can't be unavailable to plants. The micronutrients affected by pH include iron, manganese, zinc and, not as often copper. The problems when you apply to much lime can make it harder to correct your ph than what you would have when you didn’t add as much lime. You can always add more lime, but if you add to much you can’t remove it if you put to much lime in the soil. With great soil moisture, lime will work immediately and pH will start to change over a few months. However, it can take up to a year for the real benefit of lime to work. As the soil pH rises, the time it takes for lime to react decreases due to lower levels of soil acids. If you need to change your ph when its to high, if you choose to use lime it will not help as much as you think in lowering your ph, it would need alot of lime to lower your ph to a point where it would cause a toxcicity to the plants so look else where to use something to lower your ph rather than using lime." Source: https://www.autoflower.org/f74/self-diagnose-your-plants-basic-deficiencies-list-11.html

Do you have any way of viewing the trichomes?

Also it's very hard (Atleast for me) to get a true reading with those sticks heh. There are some decent ones that are around 40$. It may be a bit pricy for you, but it is well worth the investment if you wish to have better control in your next grows. http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTes...ie=UTF8&qid=1399252946&sr=8-2&keywords=ph+pen
 
Day 60 Updates

Thanks for all of the information, it's really helpful. I haven't added any more nutes, and I've been doing small flushes, 6 gallons each time. More and more orange hairs every day, but still not quite there yet! Trichomes are nice and cloudy. How much longer do you guys think until she's ready to be chopped?
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GG, based on those trichs it looks like you could go at any time. The longer you wait, the more you will get a heavier, couchlock stone. Based on the look of the plant, you could definitely wait a while longer and they should put on more weight and increase your yield. I would say give her another week and see if she's still adding more bud and drinking water. Once you go a few days without much noticeable progress, chop away. Nice work! :clap:
 
Some of the leaves on another plant I have going for a few weeks now has holes in the leaves. What is this? I checked for mites and there's no sign of them! This plant just doesn't seem to be doing as well. I haven't started mutes yet but I'm planning to today.
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Had similar holes in my AM2 a few weeks in...did she go thru any trauma? The holes in my girl came from the time I knocked over my hydrometer/thermometer right on top of her when she was a baby. Apparently as the leaf continues to grow, it grows around the "bruised" parts. I saw no outward damage after it happened, and didn't know she'd been affected until the holes.
 
I ended up putting that second plant outside to see how it does! Also I'm thinking that my first girl is ready to chop! Hasn't been showing much change, and the trichomes are all cloudy with some amber (a little bit). Do I need to do a dark period? Or should I just chop?
 
I ended up putting that second plant outside to see how it does! Also I'm thinking that my first girl is ready to chop! Hasn't been showing much change, and the trichomes are all cloudy with some amber (a little bit). Do I need to do a dark period? Or should I just chop?

Pics or it didn't happen :P

I've been reading that dark period is a myth...IDK myself. But I do think a couple temp drops, but maybe that's a myth too.

Do it! Get to choppin'....
 
I've been reading that dark period is a myth...IDK myself. But I do think a couple temp drops, but maybe that's a myth too.

Both are a complete myths. Temp drop can make a plant purple up some time but neither a dark period nor a temp drop do anything to plant tricome structure or potency. How would tricomes appear in 48 hours and ripen? Impossible.
 
Both are a complete myths. Temp drop can make a plant purple up some time but neither a dark period nor a temp drop do anything to plant tricome structure or potency. How would tricomes appear in 48 hours and ripen? Impossible.


Yeah, I was definitely referring to color/appearance with the temp drop.....an appearance of full maturity.
 
Pics or it didn't happen :P

I've been reading that dark period is a myth...IDK myself. But I do think a couple temp drops, but maybe that's a myth too.

Do it! Get to choppin'....

Thanks for your quick replies guys! I was thinking that the dark period stuff might be a myth, seemed a little far fetched... Only think that made sense to me about it is that it makes the bud less harsh because it makes the sugars/carbs stay in the roots until chopping time? Not sure if that's true either! I'm going to be chopping most likely tomorrow! Took one more picture of her, and here's a picture of the plant I planted outside as well, oh and also a picture of the trichomes on the girl I'll be harvesting tomorrow! Any predictions/ guesses on yield? ;p
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