Indoor Growing Scrog

[Nightqueen]

My outdoor plant experiment might fail finishing before rot due to weather, but the train technic itself worked great. With this one plant I went with soil/coco mix , since it's easier to work with in the garden.

The DP zushi (not an autoflower) fills the 90x100cm cage. I removed the scrognet-replacing metal frames i used until 2 weeks ago to get the training done during the stretch phase. Where still needed a wire keeps 3-4 tops down. Also had to elevate the plant a little, snails everywhere otherwise.
It's raining and stormy, but no rot yet, no mildew. With srill 30-35 days to go I don't expect anything else than beautiful fall colors.

Meanwhile my 105 days old indoor photoperiod on coco turned into a Monster. I had to wait to SCROG as my growroom has the houses heating in it too and i can't scrog before yearly heating's maintanence happend. Luckily in 2 days that's done until next October.
I also noticed , I will run into trouble with some branches, when scrogging them. I 'm a bit unsure on how to handle smaller branches growing directly below another main one, so when spread plant under the net parts will overlap or grow in each other.
420, do you remove those "troublemakers" ?

Will post pics from the scrogging attempt and the outdoor lady at the weekend.

 

[Kausk]

Next grow I'm going with autos and 24/0. I have a busy schedule, so it’s nice not to rush home to check on the plants or adjust the reservoir. On 24/0 I can check it anytime. It should be the same electricity cost but you just split DLI through 24/0. Next grow I will also add a CO2 tank as I get it very cheaply. My room is sealed with a dehumidifier and EC. Electricity will go up a lot with CO2

Imho one of the big advantages of 24/0 is the relatively constant climate to reduce risks of mold, especially with such large and dense plants. Its kinda like a hair dryer, you constantly got the heat of the lamp plus the airflow from your fans. If youre managing the airflow throughout your plant and a relatively low lung room humidity it really reduces the risks.

Been looking at this timer. Do you run the same watering cycle in the dark(those of you who don't run 24/0)

View attachment 1762581

I cant answer your question but wanted to ask out of curiosity, why dont you guys go with a wifi plug?

 

[GreatWhite]

Imho one of the big advantages of 24/0 is the relatively constant climate to reduce risks of mold, especially with such large and dense plants. Its kinda like a hair dryer, you constantly got the heat of the lamp plus the airflow from your fans. If youre managing the airflow throughout your plant and a relatively low lung room humidity it really reduces the risks.


I cant answer your question but wanted to ask out of curiosity, why dont you guys go with a wifi plug?

24/0 I can visit it any time I want. This is a big plus for me because I'm busy. I'm using a Sonoff S20 smart plug, but you can use any of them. You can create unlimited scenes and have hours, minutes, and seconds and it’s cheap. Great for automated irrigation and other stuff. I can change everything remotely through the Wifi.

 

[Drownomatic]

Imho one of the big advantages of 24/0 is the relatively constant climate to reduce risks of mold, especially with such large and dense plants. Its kinda like a hair dryer, you constantly got the heat of the lamp plus the airflow from your fans. If youre managing the airflow throughout your plant and a relatively low lung room humidity it really reduces the risks.


I cant answer your question but wanted to ask out of curiosity, why dont you guys go with a wifi plug?

Battlestar Galactica rules.

Do not connect to the network.

 

[DOA]

Imho one of the big advantages of 24/0 is the relatively constant climate to reduce risks of mold, especially with such large and dense plants. Its kinda like a hair dryer, you constantly got the heat of the lamp plus the airflow from your fans. If youre managing the airflow throughout your plant and a relatively low lung room humidity it really reduces the risks.


I cant answer your question but wanted to ask out of curiosity, why dont you guys go with a wifi plug?

It's the reason I really opt for 24/7, mould risk is very low and you get that explosive veg growth, which is a win win.

 

[Antonio_DutchPassion]

Next grow I'm going with autos and 24/0. I have a busy schedule, so it’s nice not to rush home to check on the plants or adjust the reservoir. On 24/0 I can check it anytime. It should be the same electricity cost but you just split DLI through 24/0. Next grow I will also add a CO2 tank as I get it very cheaply. My room is sealed with a dehumidifier and EC. Electricity will go up a lot with CO2

24/0 I can visit it any time I want. This is a big plus for me because I'm busy. I'm using a Sonoff S20 smart plug, but you can use any of them. You can create unlimited scenes and have hours, minutes, and seconds and it’s cheap. Great for automated irrigation and other stuff. I can change everything remotely through the Wifi.

With auto's you should be able to visit your plants anytime you want anyway mate.. even in the dark. They are not photo-dependant to stay in flowering

With photo's you have to be really careful indeed and not stress them and risking them going back into veg.

But being careful is always best, 100%!

@420autoflower Nice info you're spreading with the community mate, the perfect helping hand and so inspiring to many! Keep up the good work brother

 

[Nightqueen]

24/0 eliminates the risk of having a faulty timer less eventually - this stuff always happens when needed the least. Honestly I have enough paranoia already, so one or two worries less during veg is a good thing.

Btw, regarding blue spectrum led lights as mentioned few pages before, I use a few bi-color video/filmmaking Led panels past few years in my veg room , in addition to a dedicated grow light. You might laugh me out but the blue/daylight spectrum does it's thing. The tungsten setting isn't bad either if in need for additional boost, for example under canopy. So if that's what some of you are looking for (mainly more blue spectrum in an led grow light) , this is a cheap, versitile option to add to the mix. (Get them used). And as a side effect, I'm always having the light for taking good (plant) images with these panels without need for IR or UV filter to eliminate Ir/uv pollution.

 

[420autoflower]

Yes, one could really see the difference in your experiment, incredible! It would be interesting to see if you can prolong vegetative state with a cold light spectrum (e.g. only 5000K, maybe with added blue and/or green LEDs) or if it doesnt have any more benefits to a mixed white spectrum.

For now I just taped the red LEDs on my Mars Hydro.

View attachment 1762527

Great idea brother!
That should do the trick.

Been looking at this timer. Do you run the same watering cycle in the dark(those of you who don't run 24/0)

View attachment 1762581

Yes, if you are growing hydro. Risky with soil.

My outdoor plant experiment might fail finishing before rot due to weather, but the train technic itself worked great. With this one plant I went with soil/coco mix , since it's easier to work with in the garden.

The DP zushi (not an autoflower) fills the 90x100cm cage. I removed the scrognet-replacing metal frames i used until 2 weeks ago to get the training done during the stretch phase. Where still needed a wire keeps 3-4 tops down. Also had to elevate the plant a little, snails everywhere otherwise.
It's raining and stormy, but no rot yet, no mildew. With srill 30-35 days to go I don't expect anything else than beautiful fall colors.

Meanwhile my 105 days old indoor photoperiod on coco turned into a Monster. I had to wait to SCROG as my growroom has the houses heating in it too and i can't scrog before yearly heating's maintanence happend. Luckily in 2 days that's done until next October.
I also noticed , I will run into trouble with some branches, when scrogging them. I 'm a bit unsure on how to handle smaller branches growing directly below another main one, so when spread plant under the net parts will overlap or grow in each other.
420, do you remove those "troublemakers" ?

Will post pics from the scrogging attempt and the outdoor lady at the weekend.

Happy to know the method is working for you both indoors and outdoors.
I would push those smaller branches strait up your canopy and forget about laying them down flat if you think they’ll be covered by other branches.
Please post pics when you get a chance so I can see what you’re dealing with.

24/0 I can visit it any time I want. This is a big plus for me because I'm busy. I'm using a Sonoff S20 smart plug, but you can use any of them. You can create unlimited scenes and have hours, minutes, and seconds and it’s cheap. Great for automated irrigation and other stuff. I can change everything remotely through the Wifi.

Only negative is the extra power used.

With auto's you should be able to visit your plants anytime you want anyway mate.. even in the dark. They are not photo-dependant to stay in flowering

With photo's you have to be really careful indeed and not stress them and risking them going back into veg.

But being careful is always best, 100%!

@420autoflower Nice info you're spreading with the community mate, the perfect helping hand and so inspiring to many! Keep up the good work brother

Thank you Antonio! Always happy to help.

Going to be a little tricky growing your photos in tents next to autos tents but I’ll make it work.

24/0 eliminates the risk of having a faulty timer less eventually - this stuff always happens when needed the least. Honestly I have enough paranoia already, so one or two worries less during veg is a good thing.

Btw, regarding blue spectrum led lights as mentioned few pages before, I use a few bi-color video/filmmaking Led panels past few years in my veg room , in addition to a dedicated grow light. You might laugh me out but the blue/daylight spectrum does it's thing. The tungsten setting isn't bad either if in need for additional boost, for example under canopy. So if that's what some of you are looking for (mainly more blue spectrum in a led grow light) , this is a cheap, versitile option to add to the mix. (Get them used). And as a side effect, I'm always having the light for taking good (plant) images with these panels without need for IR or UV filter to eliminate Ir/uv pollution.

Interesting! Thanks for the info.

 

[Nightqueen]

There are these unlucky days that instantly change all plans.

As said in post earlier, originally I wanted to scrog on weekend, but somehow powdery mildew took over. So instead of scrogging I was cleaning room and gear and got rid of the plant - not messing with it and eventually risk the rest... The other 2 in a seperate tent still do fine , they just aren't scrogged, just trained heavily. Also one plant less now brings down overall humidity quite a bit. Lesson here: as bad as it sounds, there's a positive side even in the negative.

Then I went outside to check for the outdoor zushi which was fine 2 days ago and now just a 1x1m canopy of budrot. Okay, i expected that , yet it's somehow sad to see it happening. Like a child getting deadly ill... and nothing you can do about.

So good news is, today mail-woman delivered something nice and maybe - viewed from another more positive perspective - that's why the other shit happend - to make room for something new: DP's SMC. Really exited about this one.

 

[Delps8]

Fascinating thread. I'm really glad I found this because I have a plant (a photo) that's about 5 days from flip and I'll use the information here as a "how to" to finish off this plant.

A few comments re light — blue photons inhibit cell expansion in plants. The growing style makes no difference. If you want compact, bushy plants use a light that has a lot of blue in the spectrum. When growers were using HID, MH was used in veg because it had a lot of blue. After veg, growers switched to HPS which has very little blue.

From various Bugbee videos:

I bought Growcraft lights, one for veg one for flower. Below are the spectra.

Blue inhibits cell expansion but deep red (660nm) does not encourage cell expansion. Far red (730nm) does. Lots of deep red is used in flower lights because it reduces the percentage of blue.

A really good way to control morphology is with supplemental lights. The Mars ADLite set is a really good buy (the blue and red lights). I bought a set of Spider Glow R80's a year ago and picked up the Mars Blue 55 this summer but if I were buying them now, I'd get the set from Mars.

After using the Growcraft and a few other lights for a few years, I used ChatGPT to help customize my lighting schedule and I recommend it highly if you'd like to fine tune your plant shape.

The biggest issue, though, it putting more light on your plants. Cannabis matures by about day 21 to be able to process 1kµmol of light. That's really important for autoflowers because the veg time is so short. More light earlier ensures a bigger canopy so the autoflower timer kicks over into flower mode. I run photos and auto 24/0 because cannabis is a C3 plant so it does not need darkness to do its Calvin cycle processing and you cannot "catch up" by trying to add more light later in the grow. For autos, I run at 70-80 DLI through the life of the plant.

I"ve bookmarked this thread and will refer back to it from time to time to help keep me on track. Many thanks to @420autoflower for taking the time to post all of this great information and for keeping it current.