HELP! D39. My 5th growth in row is failing. (1st with autopots) Yellowing TOP leaves. PH, zinc,iron, something else?

[Del boy]

What was the yield, if thats not a secret?
I am at a point, where I dont want my plants to be big actually Due to humidity. I have good circulating fans, but am afraid of big cola rot (which I have had)
Tent is in my bedroom and I cant use a dehumidifier (loud)

That is why I currently grow 1 autopot and 1 biobizz light mix organic plant.

Hello i got 18 oz of good buds off each plant i grow average size plants normally they where just freaks those two but i still stick to 500ppm for all my autos i grow in a wardrobe so rh is a bit of a pain but you just up the temp if rh gets to high. on a side note i stop using cal/mag once i see pistalls forming and just add it if they need it which they dont as to much cal/mag gives you lock out

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

I run autopots as well and just wondering....why did you decide to go coco?....and have you done soil before ( i.e. Happy Frog or similar)?

 

[BipolarBear91]

I run autopots as well and just wondering....why did you decide to go coco?....and have you done soil before ( i.e. Happy Frog or similar)?

Honestly, I think my lack of experience in growing and respect for authority did it.

Several people on autopot reddit use 100% coco, due to better wicking potential. However, it has been pointed to me, that that is scientifically unsound and coco only may not have better wicking potential than coco/perlite.

Oh, I think you mean soil vs coco.
I am doing both - kind of.
1 autopot and 1 5 gallons biobizz light mix organic grow.

Iwant to complte at last one "organic" grow before I go only autopots. Principle

 

[orange wing]

Honestly, I think my lack of experience in growing and respect for authority did it.

Several people on autopot reddit use 100% coco, due to better wicking potential. However, it has been pointed to me, that that is scientifically unsound and coco only may not have better wicking potential than coco/perlite.

Oh, I think you mean soil vs coco.
I am doing both - kind of.
1 autopot and 1 5 gallons biobizz light mix organic grow.

Iwant to complte at last one "organic" grow before I go only autopots. Principle

U don't want to mix RO with tap water for canna coco a b canna is best used with tap water. Canna says as long as your tap water ec is 0.4 and up u shouldn't need calmag or micronutrients. If u want to use straight RO u can get there mono range they have a trace mix that contains all micronutrients. But if u use straight tap water u should be good also cut out the calmag if u decide to use straight tap water

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

Honestly, I think my lack of experience in growing and respect for authority did it.

Several people on autopot reddit use 100% coco, due to better wicking potential. However, it has been pointed to me, that that is scientifically unsound and coco only may not have better wicking potential than coco/perlite.

Oh, I think you mean soil vs coco.
I am doing both - kind of.
1 autopot and 1 5 gallons biobizz light mix organic grow.

Iwant to complte at last one "organic" grow before I go only autopots. Principle

There are certainly more ways to skin this cat than I'd ever want to try. Since you put "organic" in quotes and I'm not sure those nutes qualify as organic, I'm only assuming you'd like to get one grow finished that is good enough to smoke and maybe impress your friends with....to that end might I suggest Osmocote Plus mixed into your soil mix for your next run. I know, sacrilege, but just finished my 3rd grow testing with it and it's become my go to for ease of use. I haven't even been pH'ing my water. Some deficiencies have shown in flower depending on the strain, but all have finished nicely. It's only a suggestion and we all grow in our own ways. For proof you can look at any of my grows via links under my sig.....

 

[bearhair]

Like @Del boy said. Remove the pot from the tray and flush with 1/2 strength nutes, a good flush. Then repeat once a week.. this is a coco, autopot thing. Been there, done that.

 

[Cannaficionado]

Hmm..


The thing is- zinc and iron get locked out if ph goes too high. I dont find this plausible because I tested ph regularly and max was 6.1. Of course, root zone as higher than 6.1 (tray water PH), but high enough to cause lockout?

So this is what baffles me. If my tray water ph was normal, then zinc deficiency can only be caused by actually not getting enough zinc. Mayb my 50 ppm TAP water wasnt enough to satisfy zinc/iron needs... dunno

@Mañ'O'Green - I preemtively apologize for tagging you. I know you probably get tagged all the time, but hey, I got nothing to lose and I am desperate. And you are the "man". I have a lot of your texts and advice saved

If you know someone else in this forum who might help, can you tag them please?

Thank you.

Make sure you calibrate your ph meter regularly. I do mine once every 2 weeks otherwise readings start getting skewed. Remember a ph sensor works by detecting the difference in hydrogen ions from a setpoint. Your probe will exchange the ions and it will actually loose its "0" pretty regularly if your testing all the time.

 

[Lil Dab]

Thanks. Can I ask for 1 clarification?

Is there a consensus on how concentratd should the flushing water be for COCO?
You say "use you usual ppms" - that would be a flush with 700 ppm
I have heard "use the usual dosage" but I have also read to use 1/2or even 1/4 of your usual ppms to flush coco.


Is there even a difference?

P.S. DO you mix in perlite and/or hydroton?

I run coco dtw with megacrop and still do a 50-60% nute flush once a week at rez change I highly recommend it with auto pots.. Don't have any experience with canna nute but do agree 700ppm max for auto's

 

[elcoloan]

Can't really help you with your problem (but I would vote for this being a problem related to your water and how its interacting with your nutes... hope MañOGreen gives you some input so we can all learn), but if it's any help, my grow pals and I have done a bit over a dozen runs with hand-watered 100% coco as well as 100% coco in Autopots. We go this route when we know we want to be able to get more days in between waterings, but when we do so, we know we have to be more careful with watering (either by hand or automatic) the first few weeks while roots fill up the containers or we end up with a whole bunch of problems eventhough harvests end up being very nice. Anyhow, we now prefer to mix at least a bit of perlite or pumice into the coco and do feel results and plant upkeep are better and easier.

Make sure you calibrate your ph meter regularly. I do mine once every 2 weeks otherwise readings start getting skewed. Remember a ph sensor works by detecting the difference in hydrogen ions from a setpoint. Your probe will exchange the ions and it will actually loose its "0" pretty regularly if your testing all the time.

BTW @BipolarBear91 , what instrument are you using to check pH? Aside from making sure your calibration liquid is fresh, i think a good pH meter is a must in coco! Oh, and have you already tried doing a coco slurry test (https://www.cannagardening.com/measuring_coco) just to get more data ? This helped us figure out a batch of coco we had had come with an incredibly low pH and that was what was giving us a constant Mg and Ca def if we didn't pH to at least 6.2... so a slurry might help you narrow down your answer?

 

[oldham]

My friend had similar issue. It took her a while before realizing not to mix a and b together. First a and mix and then b.
Sure way to easy and sure though about. But share it anyways.