Football Haha fcn autosomal ROOTBALL..Dumb test wot I am..
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:smoking: Indeed Witchy, that's why I asked about the lights, and noted the color burnishing on newest growth,... IMO, the pale color is more about the nutrition issue than the light, but it's a factor! I see no other more strongly suggestive symptoms like edge rolling and elevated teeth tips, burn spots at this area too (from overdriven transpiration, and the consequent build-up of certain nute elements, particularly K, at these exit points for water-- besides stomata on leaf surfaces) ... drooping is almost always a root issue, too dry/wet, damaged physically or from dry/wet conditions... I have had a few plants that took this posture for no apparent reason, outside, and never really changed back-..... A note about heat/light/transpiration stress: if it gets bad enough, the plant closes up the stomata in order to reduce severe water loss; when that happens, the transportation highway from the roots to tops grinds to a near halt; if it stays like that long enough, localized nute' defc.'s can start showing,...
>> Cananduh, thanks for the info,... I forgot to ask what the T and RH are! ... The Mars 300 is a little too close, I think Mars recommends 18+" during bloom....
OK, fish tank water is not a good source, mate, it's a rather incomplete nute profile, and if she uses algicide, any water treatments like ammonia-locking stuff, medicine, etc., those can be bad for the plants and/or soil microbes,... mostly, it's poor nutrition profile that's the problem; no micronutrients, S, Ca, Mg, minimal P and K, etc.,... N is about it really, depending on the water source... bat poo is usually P, sometimes some K as well, but again, incomplete (what's the PK numbers for yours?)... the pale color is likely partly from certain defc.'s in S and maybe even N, as the amount going in is totally unknown.. worse, many of the nute elements work with each other in efficient uptake and metabolizing, so if certain ones are lacking, others, even if present, may not be getting proceesed well enough to keep up with demands,... You need some proper nutes! Roots Organic and General Organics make good bottled stuff,... As younger, smaller plants their demands were proportionately low, plus the soil helped, but now that they're bigger, and the soil is getting weaker, demands are getting past what is getting supplied...
pH is everything, so to not monitor it and have what you need to dial in your water and nute soln., is a real gamble; off pH issues are the [HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG] problem I see here! ... also, what happens in-pot is yet another issue, with all that affects pH in there--roots, microbes, the nutes themselves (N source is a biggie: NO3-, NH4+, etc.)... I recommend getting the Accurate 8 soil pH probe for this,... do you have a pH meter for liquids? ... here's a good chart showing relative nutrient availabilities across pH range--> View attachment 706312
That's great news, sounds like a root zone problem clearing up [emoji106]Update on progression so far. I took the advice and did a 30%+ run-off when I watered last night. I left the nutrients out of the equation for now. My intentions were to try and balance out the pH.
Here are the results about 2 hours later:
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She perked right up! [emoji4]
I'll start introducing nutrients on the next feeding.
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Autosomal???AUTOSPELL.PMSL[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
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... Ah! It seems different strains can have variable rooting mass, and tolerances, just like most everything else about auto's,... from just looking at plant vs pot size, I didn't think it was that bad, certainly not when you see what some other folks' monsters in tight shoes have been like! But then again, they may not have been in plastic (non breathing) pots, but were n fabric which allow far better exchange and more even drying,... and as long as you don't beat up the roots, transplanting if fine, it's the damage shock that stunts them! The rooting/stimulant products mentioned would be perfect right about now,...