New Grower HELP, Rusty spots and pale yellow new growth.

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Hi,

Need some help to sort my plant out. Its at Day 19


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20 liter pot.

What is going on? There is no burn marks on the leaf tips. Just theses little brown spots. The bigger fan leaves just show little dots but are on a whole nice green color but now its started on the new growth too and they are looking yellow I need some help to stop this and find the cause of the problem.

Over watered.. maybe the bottom of the pot hit 10 on the moisture stick I bought 7 days ago but top to mid way showed 3/4 last night. This was meant to be outside grow and the pot was drying out nicely, but now I am keeping it inside the CFL is not packing enough heat to dry the pot out.

It has had no other water for the last 7 days in an attempt to get the pot to dry out but last night was given 2.5ml seaweed, 1 tbs Epson salts and 1ml grow to 1 liter of water but only 500ml watered. The new leaves do look less yellow and more a green color then last night and seem to be taking over the yellow.

I don't really want to flush the plant as i will be stuck with an over watered plant for the next two weeks at the rate the pot is drying out and its about to show pre flowers as i can see the start of a white hair. I am willing to ride it out if I can correct it by not flushing and get the new growth to start coming through green.

Water left for 24 hours before using, has been Phed to 6.5 after finding out my tap ph was closer to 8 then 7 and the meter reads a soil ph of 6

Plant growth does not seem to have slowed after LST 4 days ago.

I just need to address this before the plant kicks into flowering mode. Any advice on what to do please.

Thanks.
 
I'm seeing the start of a P and/or K deficiency and maybe a little cal/mag as well. What kind of meter are you using to measure the soil pH? 6 is a bit low and at that level cal and mag can be locked out and it's right on the edge of where both P and K can also be locked out. Not so far off that any drastic measures need to be taken. Upping your feeds to around 7 should help. I would suggest you start supplementing some cal/mag, whether that be in for form of a cal/mag supplement or molasses and epson salts.
 
Muddy

Its a Standard garden center all in one joby moist/light/ph bought mostly for the moist reading as I new the pot was bordering on being over watered at the bottom and being a large pot (to large for me indoors) I wanted to get it dry.

I just rechecked a few areas of the soil and it was on the red mark between 6 and 7 though more above 7

I have epson salts, no molasses but that is easy enough to get. Right now the grow is 5.3.3 I don't yet own any bloom or cal-mag. The bloom will be 3.5.4

I can afford to get one or the other today, bloom or cal mag in till a weeks time if I need both. Though I don't think it will be to long before it starts to flower. Any good organic cal-mag you can recommend if needed?

What do you suggest to buy first to solve this? Is the does of epson salt enough 1tbs / L or should I increase this per liter and from now on should I start Ph`ing everything at 7 rather then 6.5?

Thanks for the reply after looking myself I had though the same P & K but thought its better to ask then start guessing.
 
Those meters are notoriously inaccurate and are generally considered useless when it comes to growing weed. Given the deficiencies starting to show we would have to assume your pH is low and the nutrients are being locked out. Epsom salts and molasses can be used in place of a cal/mag supplement. The Epsom salts will supply the magnesium and the molasses the calcium. So it's really up to you if you want to go that route or buy a cal/mag supplement. Since you are organic I assume you would rather have an organic supplement, which would be the Epsom salts and molasses. You didn't say how old your plants are but judging from their size I would guess about 3 weeks. So you've got another 2-3 weeks of veg growth before you'll need to switch over to bloom nutrients. If you go with Epsom salts and molasses, apply them at the rate of 1 tablespoon of each per gallon (4 liters) of water. Yes, up the pH of your feeds to 7 and check the pH of your run off. I would also suggest your invest in a good digital pH meter and if you want a good soil probe, a Control Wizard Accurate 8.
 
It was more to give me some understanding on the moisture levels at the bottom of the pot then anything else. Had i started with the intention of being indoor only I would never have used a 20 liter pot lol

Humboldt nutrient -equilibrium natural seems to have good reviews on another uk site and is rated as an organic cal/mag. So I buy this first over the bloom then?

The plant is 19 days old and the soil is meant to have a ph of 5.5 to 6.0 strait out of the bag. Its to late now but can address this issue before starting with the next plant. I do own a Ph pen that is how I have been adjusting the water, not using the cheap garden meter to do so.

So if I order the cal/mag today this wont be here till the middle of next week now what with the weekend so is there a short term fix maybe foliar feeding the salts/molasses I can do to tie me over in till I get it. What type of ratio for a liter should be used?

Also if possible I would like to keep watering to a minimum at least in till the bottom drys out a little more. So checking for run off will be hard as I am now not watering enough to cause a run off.

 
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Right the Humboldt nutrient -equilibrium has been ordered. After some more reading it seems people in general are happy with this product and it has helped fix there cal/mag issues. Will applying this go towards addressing the P and K problem? Or will this take something else?

Hope there is something I can do in the mean time to try slow this problem down.
 
So I pick up some unsulphured molasses today. I have the salts already and the cal/mag is in the post and the bloom will be ordered in a week or so.

I rechecked the pot today at 4 points around the pot and it is starting to dry out down there and is now at 7/8 boarding on moist/wet. So by the time the cal/mag gets here, middle of next week 3/4 days it should hopeful be getting back to a level when I can start watering little and often.

The easiest way and without effecting the soil would be to foliar feed. What would be a good does of each for a liter of water? I have 4 liters now sat waiting for the chlorine to evaporate from water which will be done tomorrow. Would the liquid seaweed be any help here too?

Will this need to be ph`ed also?

When the cal/mag gets here and I follow the instructions on the bottle should I also carry on with the 1ml of grow too.

Sorry for all the questions. I feel like I have every part of the jigsaw but am unable to make them fit :)
 
The easiest way and without effecting the soil would be to foliar feed. What would be a good does of each for a liter of water?

I did as much as 1/2 tsp Epsom in a pint. So, I'd say say 1tsp (5ml) in a quart (liter) should be safe. My problem was severe, yours isn't. So, you might want to be safer and do 1/2 tsp in a quart.

If you have ph lockout, you probably want to give a little of your normal veg nutrients as foliar feed too. Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 the strength you'd feed through soil.

When I foliar fed I added a little Akaska Kelp, about 1/4-1/3 of what they recommend on the bottle for foliar feeding. I did 1/2 tsp in a pint bottle. I'm not familiar with the product you have.

I don't know about ph for foliar feeding. I did 6.5 because it seemed safe. Not sure if it's necessary.

Be careful to protect the leaves from strong light while water is on the surface. The light can burn the leaves.

Get a "wetting agent" to help the water to spread and cling to the leaf. Not mandatory. I didn't use it. But, it helps if you have it on hand.

When you're in flower be careful of bud rot. Be aware of your relative humidity and use a fan to accelerate drying. (Or, just avoid foliar feeding.).
 
1tbs Epsom salts, 1 tbs molasses, 2 ml liquid seaweed, drop of liquid soap to 4 liters but no grow

Maybe a waist to only end up using less then 1/2 a liter to foliar feed, but not worried about that as the rest went on some plants outside.

Done it about 5 hours ago now, watched the Italy game, placed a fan over the plant and then watched the boxing. The plant was dry when I placed it back under the light.

Guess I have to wait till the morning and see if there is any change. I have some left in the bottle to which i can add some grow to and maybe go about foliar feeding in till I get the cal mag next week before watering the soil again and the pot should have dried out enough by then and start Ph`ing the feed at 7 like muddy suggested.

I hope this is going to be enough to get this issue under control? Growth has not slowed at all.

I should at this rate its growing have 14/16 maybe more upward branches before I let the top rise up without pinning it back down. If I can get this under control and the new leaves coming through green without theses rust spots it could turn out quite well in the end... still fair way to go.

I will be most defiantly be looking to amending my soil before my next grow if this has been the cause of the problem. A tbs of lime to 4 liters of soil seems to be the going rate after a lot of reading.
 
I should at this rate its growing have 14/16 maybe more upward branches before I let the top rise up without pinning it back down. If I can get this under control and the new leaves coming through green without theses rust spots it could turn out quite well in the end... still fair way to go.

The plants should definitely be able to "rebound" from this with no problem. It's not even a very bad case of it.
 
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