Help! Yellowing spreading laterally. Week 7. Indoor soil
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I would never totally flush an organic/TLO soil, why flush the good stuff right? I'm learning though that TLO or not, decent run off clears the old stale water out and allows fresh water (inclusive of oxygen) to the roots.
Thanks fellas. Leaf closeups as requested :
The time release potting mix was a mistake especially for autoflower as flushing for harvest is going to be challenging. Reason I ended up with it was because I needed a certified organic potting mix and options were limited!
lesson learned
I think I know what you mean by living and no it's not composted or mixed with organic amendments.
Can there be renewed growth this far into flowering? It's my first AF so wasn't sure.....
I tried delaying flowering as much as possibly intentionally so I could get to a 90-100 day harvest instead of 60. So it was simple veg ratio nutes and kelp that I was feeding.
I kept it simple and hadn't fed any flowering ratio Nutes till last week but I guess that's not being absorbed due to lockout and she is eating herself.
Yes sir.
flush-dry-feed or flush and feed same time?
I know some consider it a waste feeding nutes directly after flush?
Patience is a virtue/skill in this game im lesrning though Im scared of waiting till the next watering (which will be days as it takes a while for pots to dry out). Can't foliar as trichomes are already formed.
The time release potting mix was a mistake especially for autoflower as flushing for harvest is going to be challenging. Reason I ended up with it was because I needed a certified organic potting mix and options were limited!
lesson learned
Thats allot of tripsand im not an organic guy but im headed that way but if you were feeding a living soil you would def know what I was referring to so we can just skip that for now but yeah if your city water is shitty I would get the ro and flush with it and evaluate from there it doesnt have to be 3 times the pot size its just a general thing I use but I have unlimited ro access and good city water good luck man ..... but I think you will see an improvement especially with the time release stuff in there... I have a white widow that git burnt up and looked like shit with time release ferts but after I began to flush she perked right back up with fresh green growth and began budding much better
I think I know what you mean by living and no it's not composted or mixed with organic amendments.
Can there be renewed growth this far into flowering? It's my first AF so wasn't sure.....
I tried delaying flowering as much as possibly intentionally so I could get to a 90-100 day harvest instead of 60. So it was simple veg ratio nutes and kelp that I was feeding.
I kept it simple and hadn't fed any flowering ratio Nutes till last week but I guess that's not being absorbed due to lockout and she is eating herself.
+1 from me for a Flush (to get rid of salt buildup and correct PH) and Feed (those leaves look pale)!
I don't envy your trips to the store though!
I'm with Atrain too ... slow release ferts can be a pain in the arse for growing autos. I don't think i've ever flushed 3 times the size of the pot. I just never have 6 5litre bottles of water hanging around. >.<
Yes sir.
flush-dry-feed or flush and feed same time?
I know some consider it a waste feeding nutes directly after flush?
Patience is a virtue/skill in this game im lesrning though Im scared of waiting till the next watering (which will be days as it takes a while for pots to dry out). Can't foliar as trichomes are already formed.
Flush only no feed... there will be some nutes left in the soil if you used time release ferts but the excess and build up should be gone... and yes it will not be as much new growth as veg but you will see some and the leaves that arent damaged too bad will begin looking allot better as well
I would flush with 3x pot size and last few parts of water with 1/4% feed. I think that's how it's done, if I were you I'd hit the 24hr live help thread and check brother.
The 24 hr thread disappeared for me.... Maybe I got banned for posting too often ?
Ok so I tested the first bit of runoff with the RO water at pH 7.0 and one pot was 6.1 runoff and the other 5.6 !!!!
So we are dealing with very acidic soil right ?
I then flushed with approx 10 litres water for each pot. I know 3x is recommended but that's all I could manage. It felt like some of the yellow leaves regained a hint of green and overall there was a difference in the colouring...
If your water was 7 and the run off was 6.1 then it would seem your soil is SUPER low, and again at 5.6 thats even worse. Run off isn't that accurate to be fair, best you could have done is flush, which you have. Give it a few days and see how they respond bro, I'm really no expert but I've learnt to leave things and step back a minute once I've taken action on something. Flushing will reset the soil to the pH you put through it, next time you water give them a light feed. Sorry thats about all I can advise.
Its sort of my life lesson too personally and managing large teams. So I've been following that with my grow. I've grown Giants outdoors but the indoor game if different !!!
Thanks buddy... Will be another 3 days before I can think of watering again etc.
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:slaps:--dude, this problem is relentless, huh!... okay, a mess of info is in this thread, so let's cut to the bones here,... (you can't post at LHT? weird, bro', nobody would block you there,... site bug or something, and a separate issue for now)... All TLO is organic, but not all organic is TLO,.. that is a very specialized soil that needs to be carefully put together and cooked for months, relying on microbial action to cycle nutrients naturally, and moderate pH, with minimal further inputs,...
>> LOL! I tried to warn you, that soil probe was not to be trusted,... you might have over done the acidifying too,... what was the pH before watering? ...recall, RO/DI water has no buffering capacity, so small input can result in big swings, and any solution made from it, even if adjusted again, will not stay stable,... buffering is a self-correcting action that involves the chemistry between carbonates and H+, and there has to be enough of them in there to be effective... How are you testing your run-off, mate, I forget... a meter? Is it calibrated recently using a dedicated soln. for this?.... IF those pH reading are accurate, then for sure pH is too low,... you need to add a Ca-Mg product derived from carbonates, and/or dechlorinated tap water that has mineral in it naturally,... Flushing with slightly elevated pH water will help correct, but as you flush, nutrients get washed out as well,.. this is why the final pour should have Ca-Mg and very dilute nute's in it,... Some others have called the color loss right too-- I see definite N defc. happening now (not S- that affects top growth first), but not from lock-out...Mg will be restricted at this pH, but not N.... N has a very robust availability across a wide pH range,...Mg defc. show typically with green veins, and yellowing in between, sometimes with edge/tip necrosis; N defc. shows color fade veins and all, seldom with necrosis until maybe the very end (before it drops off) if at all,... In flowering, N doesn't get top billing, but N is needed all the time regardless,... it just shouldn't be the largest # in the NPK %'s,.. we see N starved plants in bloom often, and the bloom nutes may not have enough for demand,... It's fine to mix in some grow nutes with your bloom to up the N some, just don't switch back fully to grow nute's to treat,... how much grow nute's you will depend on what the NPK numbers are in both grow and bloom nutes,.... for example, say I have 10-5-8 grow, 5-15-14 bloom,.... here, and even blend of both would be fine, but make sure your total dilution is the same as usual,...if you're feeding at half strength for example, don't add half strength doses of both combined, add 1/4 strength of each for a combined half strength,... That soil will be a source of crap until the end I'm afraid,... there's really no delaying of blooming, or extending it after the fact with auto's,... forcing usually just ruins yields and causes hemi' behavior,... As for the flushing, run the pot's equivalent volume through first, then retest,... the less drowning of the poor thing you do, the better!.. you saw the fast drainage tips at LHT already, right?
... before the next grow, if you have the cash to spare, get that Accurate 8 soil Probe, and a TDS meter to see how hard-- and therefore, well buffered-- your water is before you do any tweaking,... :smoke:
>> LOL! I tried to warn you, that soil probe was not to be trusted,... you might have over done the acidifying too,... what was the pH before watering? ...recall, RO/DI water has no buffering capacity, so small input can result in big swings, and any solution made from it, even if adjusted again, will not stay stable,... buffering is a self-correcting action that involves the chemistry between carbonates and H+, and there has to be enough of them in there to be effective... How are you testing your run-off, mate, I forget... a meter? Is it calibrated recently using a dedicated soln. for this?.... IF those pH reading are accurate, then for sure pH is too low,... you need to add a Ca-Mg product derived from carbonates, and/or dechlorinated tap water that has mineral in it naturally,... Flushing with slightly elevated pH water will help correct, but as you flush, nutrients get washed out as well,.. this is why the final pour should have Ca-Mg and very dilute nute's in it,... Some others have called the color loss right too-- I see definite N defc. happening now (not S- that affects top growth first), but not from lock-out...Mg will be restricted at this pH, but not N.... N has a very robust availability across a wide pH range,...Mg defc. show typically with green veins, and yellowing in between, sometimes with edge/tip necrosis; N defc. shows color fade veins and all, seldom with necrosis until maybe the very end (before it drops off) if at all,... In flowering, N doesn't get top billing, but N is needed all the time regardless,... it just shouldn't be the largest # in the NPK %'s,.. we see N starved plants in bloom often, and the bloom nutes may not have enough for demand,... It's fine to mix in some grow nutes with your bloom to up the N some, just don't switch back fully to grow nute's to treat,... how much grow nute's you will depend on what the NPK numbers are in both grow and bloom nutes,.... for example, say I have 10-5-8 grow, 5-15-14 bloom,.... here, and even blend of both would be fine, but make sure your total dilution is the same as usual,...if you're feeding at half strength for example, don't add half strength doses of both combined, add 1/4 strength of each for a combined half strength,... That soil will be a source of crap until the end I'm afraid,... there's really no delaying of blooming, or extending it after the fact with auto's,... forcing usually just ruins yields and causes hemi' behavior,... As for the flushing, run the pot's equivalent volume through first, then retest,... the less drowning of the poor thing you do, the better!.. you saw the fast drainage tips at LHT already, right?
... before the next grow, if you have the cash to spare, get that Accurate 8 soil Probe, and a TDS meter to see how hard-- and therefore, well buffered-- your water is before you do any tweaking,... :smoke:
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