New Grower Lets get some data?

[james76208]

imho pot size only matters if growing in soil run drain to waste coco in a 40oz cup and grow a auto of destiny

 

[mallo]

Ive got an Auto Blueberry right now in a 5 gal pot, coco/clay pebbles. During veg I kept it close to the t5s so it is a little shorter than it could have been. Today is week 8 and she is as tall as the pot and a few inches bigger around. Hand watered. I believe in the bigger pot idea, but I think getting the nutes right will have a make or break impact. Were looking good so far, ill post the dry weight and nute regiment in a few weeks for some pot size data:trichs:

 

[YouDon'tKnowMe]

hey jm, you're an admin, right? what if we created a web form we could try and push on people who have just finished harvesting in their grow journal to fill out and submit to us and we could start building up some info?

 

[JM]

I'll kick the idea into mods... Decisions are made democratically here... its a good idea... but there is a lot ot set up to be truely useful. (ie lighting method/ nutrient/genetics etc etc)

 

[A4]

I am a 100% believer in bigger pot size. I did a ton of research before my first Auto grow, about 4 months ago. Most everywhere I read people were growing in 3 gallon or smaller containers. I had 5 gallon smart pots and figured I would try them. I asked around a pretty good bit and most everyone said I was wasting soil going with 5 gallons, Autos just wouldn't fill the pot up. I used them anyways. They were severely underfed because, once again, everything I read said that feeding them like photos would cause nutrient toxicity. Any rate, I grew out 2 Polar Lights, they finished at day 67 which is easily a week less than most everything else I had read and final dry weight was 258g. Mind you, this was using only GH Grow, Micro and Bloom. Nothing else. No Kool Bloom, nothing.

Anyone that says larger pots don't equal larger yields, I question their knowledge on the subject because that was the only positive contributing factor to my grow.

Here is a link to that grow if you anyone would like to look at it. https://www.autoflower.org/f44/dutch-passion-polarlight-2-grow-17738.html

 

[ninja1]

But with you being unable to decide the veg time at which point does the pot size being big become useless? Also short veg time so would it be better to do 4 plants in 6.5litrs or 1plant in 26litres? Just some questions I think the data would be good to use for answers.

What % would you say nutes play as opposed to genes and environment when it comes to growing. To take a flip side of the coin in regards to feeding an Olympic athletic crap food won't make a champion...
You can feed your lab all the greyhound food you want but he ain't gonna run that track?
That said we can look at environment as a important factor...a friends dog was fed greyhound food...View attachment 234684

Would just be good to know roughly how much pot size adds in terms of weight, when the pot size factor starts to slow down ect

 

[JM]

yep... agree totally...

and let me make this point as well. Truely healthy plants have 2X as much root mass as plant mass above. so you need space for that.... and then you have to follow the exponential feeding curve... from a 3 inch plant... to a 6 inch plant at TRIPLE the food needed as the 3 inch. on up...

and the airpots are even more advantageous by allowing air to the roots and bacteria for faster feeding action and better exchange as well as proper air pruning. they are EXPENSIVE though up front.

@ ninja... genetics definetly play a huge role.. as well as epigenetics (expression of genetics in a given environment)

I'd say check out some big outdoor auto grows (I know theres a few here somewhere) and notice they have unlimited root space... if they get nutes right they get MONSTERS. it comes down to how far can a plant reach out? good question...
I know its at least 3 feet... I've traced roots that far... radius... so 6 foot circle. prob twice as much as that if we could see it all...


some advice on plants in general or a tip maybe...

Please note that not all of the following ag rules are fully accepted by either academia or the toxic chemical industry.

1. Carbon is the governor of moisture. One part carbon will hold four parts water.

2. The more carbon in a seed, the quicker it will sprout.

3. Manganese is the element of life. It brings the electrical charge into the seed.

4. All elements in a molecular structure are the same size under the same temperature and pressure.

5. The center core of an element tells whether it is an anion or a cation.

6. Nature will follow the line of least resistance.

7. The greater the density of the soil without humus, the greater the specific gravity of the soil.

8. The lesser the density of soil nutrients, the smaller the yields.

9. The greater the density of soil nutrients, the greater the yields.

10. The process of osmosis is not limited by time.

11. The less time it takes to grow something, the better the quality.

12. The higher the sugar and mineral content of plants and trees, the lower the freezing point.

13. Top quality produce will not rot, but it will dehydrate.

14. All organic fertilizers are cationic.

15. Plants live off the loss of energy from the elements during the synchronization of these elements in the soil.

16. See everything you look at.

17. Like things attract each other.

18. For every cause there is an effect.

19. Phosphate controls the sugar content of a product.

20. The higher the phosphate content of a soil, the higher the sugar content of the crop. The higher the sugar content, the higher the mineral content. The higher the mineral content, the greater the specific gravity of a given bushel, box, bale, etc. The greater the specific gravity of the product, the healthier the animal.

21. All elements, except nitrogen, go into the plant in the phosphate form.

22. The ratio of all crops (except grasses) for phosphate and potash in the soil is two parts phosphate to one part potash (2 P2O5 to 1 K2O). If the soil report is actual phosphorous and potassium, then the ratio is 1:1.

23. The ratio for all grasses is four parts phosphate to one part potash (4 P2O5 to 1 K2O. Again, if working with actual P and K, then the ratio is 2:1.

24. Potash determines the caliber of the stalk and leaves, the size of the fruit, and the number of the fruit which set on the trees.

25. Nitrogen is the major electrolyte in the soil.

26. Nitrogen is the sun in every molecule.

27. Only that plant food which is soluble in water is available to the plant.

28. Cationic substances go down.

29. Anionic substances go up.

30. The higher the sugar content, the better antenna plants form to get more nutrients from the air.

NOTES: These rules are published by Dr. Dan Skow in his Mainline Farming For Century 21

In light of recent information, I'd say number 27 is technically incorrect. but for liquid nutes growers, you should view it that way.

 

[ninja1]

Gonna look up these airpots now I have seen others mention them but never paid to much interest.

 

[skrewg314]

I use the self watering pots from walmart, they seem to work very very well and also breathe very well. Even in say a 1gal pot with 2 plants I get a pretty decent yield.

 

[A4]

Airpots or Smartpots, both are excellent products. Smartpots do basically the same thing but are a little less costly.