Neem Oil

JM

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How To Use Neem Oil

Neem oil is a highly effective and 100% natural pesticide, extracted from the seeds of the Neem tree in India. Neem oil is non-toxic to animals or people. Neem is systemic.

Neem oil is most effective when used as a preventive, meaning that you spray every crop regardless of whether or not you see a pest.

Many growers seem to be put off by its oiliness, finding sprayers clogged and plants left coated in oil. The solution is to get the oil broken down and suspended in the water, then we can get it onto the plants.

Mix:

1 litre warm water
8ml cold-pressed Neem oil
5ml liquid soap

Note: If your Neem oil appears solid and/or cloudy it is most likely too cold. Run the bottle under warm water for a few minutes until the Neem oil is easier to work with. Shake it well.

8ml of Neem oil + 1 litre of warm water

you can see that the oil and water are completely separated..








8ml of Neem oil + 5ml of liquid soap in 1 litre of water.

NOTE - you may have to add more or less soap, depending on the strength of your soap. When you can see soap bubbles youve got it right.



Shake this in your sprayer, it should make a milky-white liquid, with no oil floating on top. Leave it to settle for a few seconds. If there are any oil droplets floating on the top, add a little more soap, drop by drop, (keep shaking) until the oil is gone. Dont be surprised if you have to add more soap than I did. Now you are ready to spray.

Spray everywhere, especially under the leaves where critters hang around. Get those plants dripping wet. Keep shaking while you spray.

IMPORTANT - you must repeat this application every 3 days for at least 2 weeks (3 weeks if you want to be 110% sure)

This is important because Neem oil doesnt directly kill bugs (amongst other things it stops them from reproducing, feeding and molting their skins). So in effect, it breaks their life cycle.

This means you need to spray for at least the length of one life cycle, which for spider mites in ideal conditions (like most growrooms) is around 2 weeks, sometimes a little longer.

I use this method for the first 2 weeks of 12/12. It was taught to me by a professional grower of 20 years experience. He also uses this recipe as a soil drench (Neem is systemic and therefore there is no need to spray if soil drenching)

I have used it as a foliar spray for about a year now and have had no problems with mites or any other vermin, large or small. Skeptical friends have also been won over to this system.

Emergencies

If you are facing an infestation emergency, you can add Pyrethrum to the above mix. I challenge any nuclear-proof insect in the world to survive the twin pain of Neem and Pyrethrum.

Notes on Ingredients:

Cold-pressed Neem oil has much higher levels of active ingredients and is well worth the money. A good place to find this stuff is from a Pharmacy that stocks herbal remedies. (It is used as a treatment for head lice.)

If your Neem oil appears solid and/or cloudy it is most likely too cold. Run the bottle under warm water for a few minutes until the Neem oil is easier to work with. Shake it well.

Liquid Soap - plain unperformed, boring liquid soap. Personally I don't let that stuff anywhere near my plants, but many do, and if you're one of them you may find you need less than if using liquid soap. Experiment a little when you shake the mixture. Plain liquid soap is much more gentle than washing-up detergent.

Pyrethrum is extracted from Chrysanthemum flowers. It is a highly effective and 100% natural insecticide. It is also one of the safest, bearing little threat to mammals. Pyrethrum degrades quickly once sprayed. - CAUTION if you have cats! See Pyrethrums secition!

Editors note: Liquid soap is similar to Safers soap (a fat based liquid soap mixture). Safers suffocates and dessicates (dries out) insects. Works good, but can also clog leaf stomata, so a follow-up spray of water is required.

I personally highly reccomend using the soil method in place of the Foliar method.. for several reasons:

1) Pests tend to lay larvae in the soil
2) FOLIAR SPRAYING NEEM MUST BE DONE RIGHT BEFORE A MINIMUM 4 HRS OF DARK TIME OR IT WILL CAUSE LEAF BURN!
3) It's easy to add to your normal watering regime. Use the above method to get the neem into suspension and then you can add that to about 1.5 gallons water.
 
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Amen to the leaf burn. that shit will wreck a plant if sprayed under the lights. I will only use it on soil now period. It might take a little longer but there is no risk of burn. I also It seems like it drives my ph up a little to so I have to adjust.
 
It may affect PH, although I haven't had much time to investigate that... thanks for mentioning it though as it had slipped my mind amongst all the other stuff going on! lol

Once agan, I apologize that you had to suffer the consequences of my negligence in transferring that infomation to you... lol
 
I like to leave 2 weeks from last application to finish... with the usual reccomened good flushing to help purge it from the soil and plants.
If you've been religious up to that point, no further damage control should be neccesary unless you're importing more pests on something.

J
 
Yeah, I wouldn't do more than once a week,, or maybe even 2 weeks... oil is pretty residual in soil.


also, remmeber the plant takes it on systemically (albeit very small quantities) so that after a treatment or two... the plant actually gives it to any pests feeding on it.. and kills their evolution to next reproductive stage thereby nullifying any future populations.
J
 
Hey JM, nice thread bro. I was wondering if Green Light Fruit Tree Spray would work in my soil to get rid of my fungus gnat problem. I have been using dish soap in my water, but its not working. Thanks.

-43
 
Well, wasn't familiar with this particular product.. but looked up the MSDS:
http://www.planetnatural.com/planetnatural/images/fruit-tree-msds.pdf

Which states it to be Neem and Pyrethrins and Piperonyl Butoxide, all of which are relatively benign. This product, is, in effect, a Organic Chemical IPM method. however, I dont like putting anyhting on my plants I wouldn't feel comfortable eating (chemical wize lol). I noticed it says "clarified" neem oil in the MSDS and that throws a flag to me as well. Studies have shown expeller-pressed, non-processed neem to be way more effective over processed neem oil products.

Further:

Piperonyl butoxide is an oily, colorless, or yellow to brown liquid. It boils at 180°C and has a low solubility in water (NIOSH). In soil, piperonyl butoxide has a half-life of 73 days (EPA).
Because it is always combined with various insecticides, piperonyl butoxide is available in many forms, including aerosols, liquids, ready-to-use solutions, dusts, wettable powders, pressurized gases, pressurized liquids, dilutable concentrates, shampoos, towelettes, and water-based concentrates (EPA).

CITE: http://toxipedia.org/display/toxipedia/Piperonyl+Butoxide

See the "half-life" of 73 days? I wouldn't put this on anything 70 days from harvest and out to harvest... pretty much rules it out as something to use for autos.

I'd reccomend getting a pint of "Essential Oil Neem" 100% pure instead and using the above described methods...

Dont mean to be a NoNo Nancy.. but would hate to see you smoking chemicals just as I would hate to see you go on drugs from the pharmacist that cuase more side effects than any symptom they cover.

JM
 
Thanks John. I wasn't sure if it was good to use, glad I asked first.
 
No problem man... glad I could help...anytime
J
 
Yo John, I have a problem with the fungus gnats as well and was looking for a solution, this has helped me out A LOT as well. I have also read that mosquito dunks can be effective as they focus on killing larvaas well, and each dunk lasts for 30 days, my question is this, Is it water soluable instantly or does in slowly vanish in the 30 day course, which would make it useless as a soil drench. See yesterday I started scouting for my next outdoor grow, first time ever using autos and I would like to get the soil ready for the spring by ridding it of pests and conditioning it so everything is ready, I will be strating in the next 4-6 weeks and I want to have a good headstart on the pests living in the soil so I can keep them at bay much easier, hopefully preventing an infestation. I went out to one of my new sites and raked away old leaves so the topsoil is exposed and put down bone meal and dynamite in amounts listed on the product while it was raining slightly yesterday to soak it into the ground, in a couple weeks I plan to treat it for insects as well as my indoor plants in pots asap. Do you have any suggestions for my outdoor sites, to keep unwanted pests at bay?, ESPECIALLY to be used as a soil drench. the soil is rather loose, we have a lot of ferns and wild genseing in the area and lots of valleys, so it's a pretty ideal place to grow and I would hate to loose a crop to insects.
 
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