Nutrient burn or deficiency?

Once you get sorted with letting water sit, and then the second step of getting ph in check, send us some photos and give us an update.
If there are any other issues, don't hesitate to ask here. There are lots of great growers will a wealth of knowledge.
 
The spots are spreading and more leaves are turning yellow. I wont have the PH meter until Saturday. I have 10 gallons of water sitting out that I will be able to use tomorrow to flush with if that is what I need to do.



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:toke:-- we need dosage amounts and frequency for your nutes,... I use MC myself- :thumbsup:... what brand soil?
... your tap water, any idea how hard it is?
..symptoms looked mixed, muddied,... BTW don't remove the bad looking leaves, it hurts, not helps,... they serve as reserves for some mobile nutes, and where on the plant they were offers clues as well... That said, I think you have a lockout issue either from off pH, or really hard water cumulative build-up of minerals... potentially both! That other info is needed first though,...
If you like growing in soil, you'll need a few things to help you avoid problems like this: pH meter (for liquids only), pH probe (in-pot testing, best by far), and TDS/EC meter to get you such info when it really matters! The Accurate 8 soil pH probe is a good unit for the $; contrary to what you've been told, pH meters are not short lived unless you fail to take proper care of it...( those cheap ones are what's not reliable for long)... I have an inexpensive HM-80 (lots of choices out there, shop around) that's 4+ years old; as long as any unit is stored in the right solution, and calibrated with 7.0 and 4.0 solutions, never let dried out, and rinsed clean between each use with clean low ppm water, they can last for years,... spend a little more for a unit with replaceable electrodes and you're really set for the long term! I will, when this one finally stops working right....:biggrin: ....All such meters are fairly delicate instruments, you have to put in the time to maintain them....
All this is about knowing what your water is like, how strong the nute solutions is (TDS), and making sure you adjust the solution pH after everything is added in if needed (Ca-Mg first always), and monitoring what's happening in the pot... dialing in things before you water/feed goes a long way to keeping in-pot pH in range, and preventing nute burn, lockouts, underfeeding, etc.,...:thumbsup:
 
I just looked at the MC feeding calculator and I have been using too much. I have been mixing one gallon at a time and I have been using 5 grams instead of 4 grams. I feed every other watering. The tap water has changed the last month or so as a new well came online in my city. The soil is just a mix of perlite, peat moss and some compost. I havent added in Cal-Mg

Edit- The plant was feed three times in July at 5 grams per gallon. First week it was water. Second week feed. Third week I was out of town for work and there was a miscommunication with my girlfriend and she feed the plant instead of giving it straight water.. Third week I feed the plant and after that is when the problems started.
 
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Later this afternoon it will be 30 hours that the water has been sitting out. I will flush it with 5 gallons to clear out all the nutrients from the soil. After that I will drop the strength of the feeding to 2 grams and feed the plant once it dries out from the flushing.
 
There ya go. Reset, and get this thing going with everything in balance, and she will flourish.

Looks like you are headed in the right direction. I'll be watching. Good luck!
 
... that was a little hot on the food, many folks have noted MC seems more conc. than what the volume used would indicate,... Still, I don't see other signs of nute burn, like tip browning, clawing,... I'm still leaning toward off pH... flushing is a sort of last ditch, shotgun blast effort to fix things, and not knowing what the pH is in there makes it more of a gamble than usual,... when that pH meter gets there, test the water as well, that can offer some clue as to it's hardness; high pH indicates a lot of mineral present; you can also look up info from you water provider too,... my worry with the flush is if it's hard water, and the in-pot pH is high, it may not help much,.. now you see why a TDS meter could be very handy right now!
When you flush, and take the water's pH, also take the pH of the run-off after a quart or so has gone though, and after every gallon after that,.. what size pot? typically, 2-3x pot volume is needed for flushing, but that depnds on how bad things are in there,... last pour through should have a weak nute dose added,...
 
The PH meter didnt arrive Saturday. I am hoping it gets here Monday, when it arrives I will post the PH of my tap water and the water I have sitting out. The older leaves are still getting spots and turning pale yellow now. The plant is still growing and the new leaves at the top look good.
 
Water is 7.1 and the runoff was 6.6 I did flush once this weekend before I had the PH meter that may have changed the PH level.





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