opinions on my soil mix?

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Hey guys!

This is the first year I will be attempting a 'water only' soil mixture.

I was hoping to get some opinions on it. I'd like to keep it simple, so if any of this stuff is unnecessary or im using the wrong amount, feel free to chime in.

The plan is to mix the potting soil- 2 1.5 bags of fox farm ocean forrest
2 1.5 bags roots original or organic
2 bags of fox farm lite warrior or happy frog
1.5 cubic feet perlite
7 lbs earth worm castings
5 cups dolomite lime for ph
1 cup azomite trace elements
.5 lb blood meal
Great white to activate soil
carnivor nematoads to kill bugs and mold in the soil
some organic rice to feed algea and add silica
mix well and let sit for at least 3 weeks
makes about 90 gallons.

I will use 20 of those gallons to fill my 1 gal 'veg' air pots.

I will then take 30 of the remaining gallons to mix the flowering soil-
combine 30 gal 'veg' soil with
7 lbs additional earth worm castings
1 lb steamed bone meal
1 lb bloom bat guano
.5 lb additional blood meal
1/2 lb rock phosphate
mix. let sit till veg plants are about flowering, then mix 5 gal pots about 1/3rd with flowering soil, a buffer layer of fresh veg soil, and transplant the 1 gal.


I've planted this strain in straight ffof before, so im not worried about burning, and added some lite warrior to the mix just incase.
and the ffof vs roots war rages on, so I figure mix them = best of both worlds

and I know i look like im skimping on perlite, but those airpots really do reduce the need for it

The idea is essentially to fortify my potting mix, then 'supersoil' a portion of it for flowering.. so I dont consider it any more complicated then a conventional super soil.

-What do you guys think?
-would this likely work for water only (except maybe a few teas here and there)?
-should I reduce the ingredients in the veg soil (like the bloodmeal and azomite) since i know the soil will carry them through the whole veg?
-anything I could do without?
-anything I should DEFINITELY add?
-anything i should do less or more of?
-if I let the flowering soil cook for that long am I more likely to see insect problems?


Thanks guys. opinions/advice are greatly appreciated.
 
If you use a supersoil, there is absolutely no need to make two mixes. Make one mix with everything... the plants will use what they need/want when they need/want it.

Honestly, I do not see how what you are proposing saves any time or expense, compared to using a proven recipe. But, I'm a dummy. :peace:
 
I'm with X on that one. A super soil isn't something you have vege and bloom formulas for, it's one complete soil.

Think of it as taking a plant to a buffet, it just takes what it wants when it wants it.

You are not feeding the plant, you're feeding the soil.

Experimenting and trying to make your own mix will more than likely lead to trouble. Take a look at the proven recopies people have posted and try one of those.
 
Its really not that im mixing two completely different batches. Im basically just addng ph adjustment, pest repellent, perlite, and a bit of extra N to my ffof, then mixing super soil with some of it (to transplant into later). Surely if i mixed everything at once it would burn the younger plants, no?

Thanks for your input guys

And to the mod that had to move this i apologize if it was in the wrong place. I intend on using the soil for a photo-period so i didnt know if it should go there or in organics.
 
Surely if i mixed everything at once it would burn the younger plants, no?
We start seedlings in a neutral, properly ph'd mix... Then, we transplant into the supersoil. If the plants are 3 weeks or so old (hardened off), and you have let the mix "cook" at least 30 days, you should have zero issues from burn. This is assuming that during your experimental work, in preparing your unique and untested mix, you do not get things off balance. :peace:
 
That is exactly the plan. And this recipe is pretty much the 'subcool supersoil' recipe, just a reduced batch. With added rice for silica, nematodes, and extra worm castings. Im just confused as to why you think it might not work? I would hate to have it come out sour
 
That is exactly the plan. And this recipe is pretty much the 'subcool supersoil' recipe, just a reduced batch. With added rice for silica, nematodes, and extra worm castings. Im just confused as to why you think it might not work? I would hate to have it come out sour

Respectfully, this:

The plan is to mix the potting soil- 2 1.5 bags of fox farm ocean forrest
2 1.5 bags roots original or organic
2 bags of fox farm lite warrior or happy frog
1.5 cubic feet perlite
7 lbs earth worm castings
5 cups dolomite lime for ph
1 cup azomite trace elements
.5 lb blood meal
Great white to activate soil
carnivor nematoads to kill bugs and mold in the soil
some organic rice to feed algea and add silica
mix well and let sit for at least 3 weeks
makes about 90 gallons.

I will use 20 of those gallons to fill my 1 gal 'veg' air pots.

I will then take 30 of the remaining gallons to mix the flowering soil-
combine 30 gal 'veg' soil with
7 lbs additional earth worm castings
1 lb steamed bone meal
1 lb bloom bat guano
.5 lb additional blood meal
1/2 lb rock phosphate
mix. let sit till veg plants are about flowering, then mix 5 gal pots about 1/3rd with flowering soil, a buffer layer of fresh veg soil, and transplant the 1 gal.

Is not the same as this:

Subs recipe...

8 large bags of high quality organic potting soil with coco and Mycorrhizae
25-50 lbs. of organic worm castings
5 lbs. of Blood meal 12-0-0
5 lbs. Bat guano 0-5-0
5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal 3-16-0
� cup Epsom salt
1 cup Sweet lime (Dolomite)
� cup Azomite ( Trace element)
2 Tbs. powdered Humic acid
*** If using an RO system add in 1/2 cup powdered Cal/mag

:peace:
 
I don't see a prob except don't need all that lime if using ffof and roots.
 
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