Plants gone downhill since flowering started.

Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
7
Reputation
0
Reaction score
11
Points
0
Currently Smoking
Allsorts
Hello AFN, i could do with some help.

Problem:These plants veged perfect and never skipped a beat, then as they preflowered they showed signs of hunger, so i was lightly feeding as i didnt want to over do it ( i always use too much nitrogen somehow) but being in light mix i started to up the nutes a little. The yellowing has got worse and now im getting burnt tips, red veins and dark spots.

Medium/grow method: BB light mix, 10 litre pots hand watered.

Feed: and supplements used: bb grow, bloom, topmax. Added epsom salt to a feed about a week ago. Also added some molasses twice. 1tablespoon in 10 litres with base nutes. Ph between 6.2-6.8

water source: Tap left out for a day

Strain/age: Northern light auto.

light used: 400w hps cool tube 18 inch from tops.

Climate: average 28 with lights on, my thermometer is out in open at canopy height. Rh 40 average. Got fans blowing and an extractor but no intake just vents.

Additional info: veged under 700w led until hps came. Got no bugs checked for that. They are in 1.2m tent on 20/4 cycle. Its two plants but both look same.
DSC_0370.JPG
DSC_0362.JPG
DSC_0367.JPG
DSC_0366.JPG
DSC_0364.JPG
 
This might be a lockout if the tips and yellowing happened at the same time. If the tip burn is old news than I would say you have N def. There are conflicting N symptoms so first thing to do is plain feed with pH 6.7 or 8 plain water and test the in pot pH to verify it is or is not a lockout. That will flush through some residual N and let the bloom nutes take over from there too.
 
Flush with about 2gals of ph'd water than let sit for a day and feed here veg nutes and half dose of bloom nutes.Also give her 5ml of cal/mag and use cal/mag at every feeding.Remove all yellow leaves.
Is it really prudent, best, to remove yellowing leaves? I leave them on the plant until they can be pulled off very easily. I presume yellowing is due to nutrients being sucked from the leaves, and I want all those good juices going to other leaves.

Also, if you conclude that deficiencies, such as Ca or Mg, are involved, consider foliar feeding. It's faster and more controllable than regular feeding to fix known deficiencies, particularly Ca/Mg.
 
Is it really prudent, best, to remove yellowing leaves? I leave them on the plant until they can be pulled off very easily. I presume yellowing is due to nutrients being sucked from the leaves, and I want all those good juices going to other leaves.

Also, if you conclude that deficiencies, such as Ca or Mg, are involved, consider foliar feeding. It's faster and more controllable than regular feeding to fix known deficiencies, particularly Ca/Mg.
You don't have to remove the yellow leaves but when there like that they don't serve any purpose except making the plant look ugly but if you want to look at them everyday just leave them on.
 
You don't have to remove the yellow leaves but when there like that they don't serve any purpose except making the plant look ugly but if you want to look at them everyday just leave them on.
So, you don't see any downsides to leaving yellowing leaves on the plant, other than appearance? You don't see yellowing as feeding other parts of the plant, including transferring high-value already-formed glucose/fuel in the fluid being sucked out of the leaves?
 
So, you don't see any downsides to leaving yellowing leaves on the plant, other than appearance? You don't see yellowing as feeding other parts of the plant, including transferring high-value already-formed glucose/fuel in the fluid being sucked out of the leaves?
Sure if they have some green on them then don't remove them but if there completely yellow they pretty much have done there job.But it's up to you what you feel is right.
 
Thanx for all the replies people, i only started ph ing water when feeding started but since then its been 6.2 to 6.8. I will try to reset medium as suggested i had hoped mollasses and epsom salt would take care of calcium and mag a little.
I have plant magic magne cal can i use it in soil? or can i spray it? If not i can get something else.
Thanks again AFN i dont have xp with autos but they were free so thought id put them in soil for ease. Ill update once iv done.
 
:toke: I'm with the Rev' on this,... what you pH is going in isn't indicative of what the in-pot pH is, too many influencing factors in there! With Biobizz, you shouldn't need to pH adjust it anyway, as it's an organic line, right?
...symptoms look like N defc, P defc., maybe some micronutes starting,... Have you checked the EC/ppm of your water?.... is it hard water? How much epsoms did you add?
...tip browning can be caused by lots of things, a common overlapping symptom,... So it goes back to knowing the in-pot pH, and figuring if this is an off-pH lockout problem, or simple lack-of which is not uncommon in this line because it's rather mild strength,... I hate to have you water (only) to get a fair amount of run-off to test (like 20%), and that's still a very crude pH indicator, but if it's way off, then we can conclude it's the problem at least and start addressing it,... if you do this, collect the r-o ina clean saucer or something, no cross contamination
 
Back
Top