Please save my baby

The thing that gets me is I don't really notice my plants getting any better. I gave them both cal mag and I increased the potassium in the dwc plant but I don't notice any changes for the better. It's been about 2 days now and nothing. Also seems like my buds aren't really getting fat either. That could be my imagination but I figured they'd be bigger by now. I should have about 30 days left before chop.
 
Fox farms are hot soils... I used to have those problems with OF when I used em... Here's a thought.. And only because you are running dwc and having the same issue... You may be giving too much cal/mag... Unfortunately when we give too much cal mag the same symptoms show as when we don't give them enough... Rusty spots... So if it were me I would back off the cal mag and see if that helps them improve. You know the drill... Watch the new growth and the healthy fan leaves to make sure it's not progressing... Hope that helps.
 
My plant might be due next weekend and her buds aren't half as fat as yours. 30 days should be plenty of time to swell.

As for the flush, give it time. It took me about 2 weeks to see notable signs of improvement when I flushed my first grow after similar lockout problems. In the meantime don't go overboard with nutrients. Proper foliar feeding could be beneficial while you're letting the soil stabilize. I've found that treating the soil with a tiny bit of milk and molasses mixed in neutral water (I guess you could use RO, I use water from my well) zap the micro herd back to life after using chemical nutes which in turn helps clear the soil for your roots. The plant will love it. :thumbs:
 
Also.. After re reading your opening post... I notice you feed molasses and cal/mag... Be aware, certain brands of molasses or cuts or molasses (unsulphured black strap for example) are higher in cal mag than others. This may be contributing to your problem. Also some base nutes have plenty of cal mag already in the mix. So always read you analysis on the bottles, even on molasses.. Make sure you aren't overdoing it...
 
I have the shitty molasses that only has like 2% cal/mag. Do you think my problem could be too much cal mag? the only cal/mag I gave before the problems started was 1 feeding of molasses and my hard tap water. Along with the dolomite lime in the soil. My nutes don't have much cal/mag.

I've also read that my strain can be prone to cal/mag problems in early flowering.


I'm starting to really think that something is really off with my bag of soil. I've been feeling like every plant I grow doesn't get as big as it should. My first auto grow was stunted and I think my current 2 soil plants should both be bigger than they are. With the autos I believed it was my mistake with extremely hard tap water and crap ph but my current tap water is better and I put way more effort into ph.

I'm not even going to use it again after this. Tossing it out and praying coco/hempy goes better for me than soil has.
 
It can very well be the FF... That's why I ditched that brand. I've been using Promix HP (high porosity) its soilless... Are you familiar? Or are you already set on coco/hempys?

Well I was thinking too much cal/mag.. If your strain is prone then double whammy sounds like with that and the soil. Your pH seems good but thinking back.So was mine... And I had similar problems... I know what you mean by the size thing... The biggest plants I've ever had have been in promix. Pre ferted soils I've never had great results.
 
Hey Anasazi- sorry for the delay,... OK, lets start with the soil plant, and some big picture stuff.... FFOF soils have been sucky for a while now--I know! I had several plants TARFU'ed by them this season, both OF and surprisingly, HF,... we're talking 5.1 in the damn bag here, testing with an Accurate 8 soil pH meter (a must get for soil growers, accept no substitute!)... I seriously dislike the run-off method because there are so many places for measurement errors to occur,... that dolomite is slower reacting, good for pH and some minor Ca-Mg inputs over time, but will do little to correct soil pH that far off, unless it's left to cook and react for weeks, and even then, it may not be enough... in my case, I ended up getting hydrated lime (very different chemically, Ca only), which is right now fast, but very powerful stuff, and should be used with great caution,...I added this to the soil before planting, though it can be suspended in water and dosed in that way carefully- (BTW, even after fixing the pH, that next round still stunted again, and I suspect the soil was just plain undercooked!...I hear FF is artificially aging some composts with urea(?) :slaps:,... so, avoid this brand for now in the future)... point is, with acidic soil, and acidic nutes, the problem has not been addressed, likely worsened,... (I know-- shit-the-bed, huh!) :face:...you need something to up the pH!....***....I see you're using Sea Grow-:thumbs:... Now, the soil plant: I see more than one thing going on here,...yellowing hard from the bottom up (veins and all), some of which is normal in budding plants, is usually N defc., which may be contributing to your case--(it's a mobile nute, meaning the plant can pull it from lower older leaves to help support newer growth and bud building-- yes, some N is needed all the way, it's a primary building block nutrient for any plant tissues, it just doesn't get top billing during flower- note that many bloom nutes still have some N)... I don't think I see any Mg defc.,.. but those dead patches smack of P defc.,... and the described tan-orange fine spotting is typical Ca defc. symptom... *(note, deficiency can come from a general lack of a certain nute, or it can be caused by nutes being rendered unabsorbable/unavailable = lockout, due to pH issues causing chemical changes to it- what happens is, even though there's needed nutes in there, they aren't in an absorbable form,... or lastly, through toxicity, where there's too much of something which interferes with absorption of other nutes).... Sooo, under your acidic conditions, I think it's pH lockout, and it's P that gets locked out first, then Ca and Mg,... Not having an actual soil reading I can rely on (no hack on you bro', it's the method that's faulted IMO) leaves some uncertainty, but all roads point to this reason,... Now, how to fix,.. you've been adding both molasses and Ca-Mg, but not for long, right? so I don't think there's any toxicity danger here...and a flush w/ tapwater with a runoff reading of 6.8? -good, right steps so far, ... BTW, good calls mate!:grin:... it does take time to take affect, and with P and Ca defc., things don't really reverse,.. what you're looking for is a slowing or halting of progression, and good looking newer growth,...some of the more hammered leaves will still croak out!.... keep adding the Ca-Mg, as directed on the bottle, but ease up on the molasses (don't want too much sugar input)-- how much per gal have you been adding? usually, 1T/gal is recommended,... go half of that a couple times a week,... I hesitate recommending hydrated lime at this stage, and w/o any quality soil pH probe to check on things,...:no:
>>> the DWC plant-- alas, I lack experience using this method, but I can still try to diagnose the problem,... I'll scare up somebody with experience for treatment though,...unless it's simple!...... okay, that looks like combo Ca-Mg defc.,... as you know, pH is ultra critical in DWC, because of the very limited windows on nutrient availability-- you've seen this graph before, right? 001.jpg... see what I mean? We need pH data and nutrient info please,... I'll see about getting a guru in here about this, meantime, get anal about that res' pH and keep on with the Ca-Mg...
 
Damn lmao,shows what I know! Lol thanks for saving the day Prof. Waira! I learned from that too!
 
Damn Waira thanks for lacing my shoes. Your post helped me realize what my problem was. For the DWC plant I've been letting the ph swing from 5.5 - 6.2 or so but I don't let it stay above 6 much at all. Thats why my ca/mag problem has not gotten any better. I did not realize I was supposed to let my ph swing as high as 6.5. My mistake was so simple and stupid lol. Easing off the ph down was all I needed to do.


As for the soil plant. I think it's safe to assume the ph was low even with the dolomite and I put too much faith in the dolomite to keep the ph toward 7. My feeds of 6-6.4 probably kept my soil ph around 6 or even lower. Again a case of me using ph down when I really shouldn't have. After I add nutes to my tap water the ph drops to about 6.8-7.2 I think. I should probably just roll with that and leave it alone.

At least now maybe I can save the younger plant before it starts to show signs. I'm just going to flush her and start feeding with a higher ph feed as well. Hopefully my first try with coco/perlite hempy goes well as I plan on trying my hand at auto's again after this grow and I definitely can't afford to have these problems with autos ;D


Thanks so much for the help guys.
 
Hey bud ,the DWC girl looks overfed to me ?.It doesn't take long for a res with a slightly high ec to keep rising ...as the plant drinks ,she cant consume the feed fast enough & it builds up .If left unchecked EC goes way up & that can cause nute toxicity & that causes other deficiencies.
The solution is keeping EC in the right place so she feeds & drinks at the same rate & the levels stay stable as the res empties ,that also helps keep your PH nice & stable for a trouble free grow !.

Like Waira has awesomely pointed out PH is essential & I think needs to be kept in closer ranges than 5.5-6.5 ...I recommend keeping her between 5.8 & 6.0 through the bloom phase & never under 5.8 if possible .Some PH swing is cool but if its kept in that range though bloom things should look lush. Again keeping the EC right will make this A LOT easier for you so grab a EC meter if you can bro:goodluck: .monitor the res every few hours for EC going up or down ...then you know if the res is to hot or not ,then you can adjust with water or more feed .

good luck DWC is rarely easy when you start !:Sharing One:
 
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