Progressing,help!

Blueberry strains can be very sensitive to nutes and not so perfect conditions where other plants may not have a problem. I did the DP BB and it was sensitive to lumens(you could see where the light hit the top and burnt it at an angle where any leaves were exposed leafs were crispy as curly fries) also so it's a matter of knowing what a strain can tolerate and what signs it gives off that a problem is arising so you can control it

This could be the case. I will try and save this lady but the next BB bean I germ I will grow it out doors and do like @jingo says and just pot up and try not to use nutes at all


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This could be the case. I will try and save this lady but the next BB bean I germ I will grow it out doors and do like @jingo says and just pot up and try not to use nutes at all


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That is correct on the nutes. Actually I know that the DP BB actually doesn't need any nutes or very little and then around finish time they will take bloom nutes to finish out. I think that is where many people can make the mistake to try and super charge a plant with food and is just not needed in most cases. I think that is one component to understand is how much and when you need to feed and that just comes with doing a few runs. I look at it as you don't feed your outdoor plants(roses,ferns just for example)every week or even every other week. We are trying to send this plant where nature can't,they are incredible tough plants but everything has a weakness. You have gained knowledge by experience which is valuable moving forward.
 
:toke: D3V'-- OK, lots to deal with here,...
--- firstly, FF soils have been very iffy these days, with many bags showing badly acidic pH, ..talkin' low 5's here! :doh: ... some still get OK bags, but it's a craps shoot frankly,.. I've had many peep's here with troubles with pH issues stemming from the lousy quality control they show anymore! The only decently accurate way to test soil pH in-pot (run-off method is bollocks in general) is to use a soil pH probe; Accurate 8 makes a good one for the money,...
--- water! ...for certain chemistry related reasons, using a pH meter on RO/Di water doesn't give good results from most pH meters, besides it's pointless... tap and most well water will have a certain amount of mineral (CaCO3 mainly) hardness in it,.. I gather yours is very hard! (more on that in a moment)... CaCO3, or specifically, the carbonate (-CO3) part is what's involved with pH buffering in water; RO/Di has none in it anymore, so even tiny inputs can cause wild swings in pH! That's why , in part, you got a crazy reading like 4.0,... the rest is the meter being out of calibration, which you've addressed, IF the meter is still okay,.. they are sensitive devices, and can be easily messed up by improper storage (not using the right solution), drying out, and being dirty,...
:greencheck:- most alarming here is the water softener! This is an ion-exchange type, using course salt, right? I assume it's NaCl type salt, not Potassium? here's the problem: to remove the hardness(CaCO3), the system uses a type of resin bead that attracts the CaCO3 to it's surface; this has a limited capacity, and to recharge it, it uses a highly saline solution to strip it off the beads,.. what happens is under such high concentration, the Na+ temporarily boots the CaCO3 off, and binds in it's place,... when it goes back to reg. water, this is reversed; the Na get booted off in favor of the CaCO3,... Now the problem: Na is toxic at low levels! It will interfere with other ion uptake, and will become toxic to the plant eventually,... You must stop using it right away, and change sources,...
--- looking at your symptoms, it looks like mostly P defc., but others could be in play,... i don't yet see signs of Na toxicity in the leaves, but that doesn't mean it's not f'ing with things! Now for this situation getting an accurate pH is critical because we need to determine if this is a simple lack-of type deficiency, or an off-pH lockout, and/or a toxicity issue; I'm guessing the latter,... with no reliable soil pH reading, the only option is to flush with more pure water, starting with 3x the pot volume... If RO or Di , low-to-no ppm's water, it should have a small dose of Ca-Mg in it, and pH checked (about 7.0) because straight dope RO/Di will be osmotically harsh on the roots,... In the last pour through, 1/4 str. nutes should be added back in to restore some of the good stuff that has been stripped away along with the bad salts, etc.,...
 
I tried getting some distilled water but it had a ph of wayyyy below 4.0 and tried getting some RO from store and it came with 18 ppm and a ph of 8.5 to be honest I didn't start ph'ing until 1/31/17 every thing was fine I thing till then when ever I start to ph my water I start having troubles I was told not to ph if growing in soil then I was told you should always ph no matter what medium


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Ph'ing organic soil and using organic nutes will cause you more problems than its worth.The dirt from the bag is good to go.Half the crap in tap water isnt disolved enough to make a difference in dirt.Soil already has a good buffer to make your PH stable and where it was before you planted.High alkaline water can only raise the PH because its contains LIME from limestone deposits brought up from the ground.Dropping the PH with a regular ph down wont do jack.The limestone is still in the water.
I would flush them plants with a shit load of regular tap water than let em sit a couple days,run a light nute solution 1/4 strength and add about 2ML of calmag per gallon.watch the new growth on the plant than get back to regular business a few days later
 
:toke: D3V'-- OK, lots to deal with here,...
--- firstly, FF soils have been very iffy these days, with many bags showing badly acidic pH, ..talkin' low 5's here! :doh: ... some still get OK bags, but it's a craps shoot frankly,.. I've had many peep's here with troubles with pH issues stemming from the lousy quality control they show anymore! The only decently accurate way to test soil pH in-pot (run-off method is bollocks in general) is to use a soil pH probe; Accurate 8 makes a good one for the money,...
--- water! ...for certain chemistry related reasons, using a pH meter on RO/Di water doesn't give good results from most pH meters, besides it's pointless... tap and most well water will have a certain amount of mineral (CaCO3 mainly) hardness in it,.. I gather yours is very hard! (more on that in a moment)... CaCO3, or specifically, the carbonate (-CO3) part is what's involved with pH buffering in water; RO/Di has none in it anymore, so even tiny inputs can cause wild swings in pH! That's why , in part, you got a crazy reading like 4.0,... the rest is the meter being out of calibration, which you've addressed, IF the meter is still okay,.. they are sensitive devices, and can be easily messed up by improper storage (not using the right solution), drying out, and being dirty,...
:greencheck:- most alarming here is the water softener! This is an ion-exchange type, using course salt, right? I assume it's NaCl type salt, not Potassium? here's the problem: to remove the hardness(CaCO3), the system uses a type of resin bead that attracts the CaCO3 to it's surface; this has a limited capacity, and to recharge it, it uses a highly saline solution to strip it off the beads,.. what happens is under such high concentration, the Na+ temporarily boots the CaCO3 off, and binds in it's place,... when it goes back to reg. water, this is reversed; the Na get booted off in favor of the CaCO3,... Now the problem: Na is toxic at low levels! It will interfere with other ion uptake, and will become toxic to the plant eventually,... You must stop using it right away, and change sources,...
--- looking at your symptoms, it looks like mostly P defc., but others could be in play,... i don't yet see signs of Na toxicity in the leaves, but that doesn't mean it's not f'ing with things! Now for this situation getting an accurate pH is critical because we need to determine if this is a simple lack-of type deficiency, or an off-pH lockout, and/or a toxicity issue! I'm guessing the latter,... with no reliable soil pH reading, the only option is to flush with more pure water, starting with 3x the pot volume... If RO or Di , low-to-no ppm's water, it should have a small dose of Ca-Mg in it, and pH checked (about 7.0) because straight dope RO/Di will be osmotically harsh on the roots,... In the last pour through, 1/4 str. nutes should be added back in to restore some of the good stuff that has been stripped away along with the bad salts, etc.,...

Damn Holmes,sounds like I need you for a neighbor okay so I either buy distilled water or I go and buy an r/o system for under my sink or just pay 5k for the entire house r/o...p.s I have stopped using FF soils am now using Roots Organic Original


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If you decide to go with r/o down the road, you want to pay attention to how they rate the system. Mine is rated at 75 gallons a day if the background is 150 ppm or less and pressure of 60 psi. I have 500ppm and 45 psi, so I get 25 gallons every 24 hours. So for me water storage tank is the important factor, since 15 gal a day is my max use every.
 
:thumbsup:OK, it's wait and see time for a few days,... Another option for water is those self-fill machines at the grocery stores; they give very low ppm water, at a much better price,...
 
:thumbsup:OK, it's wait and see time for a few days,... Another option for water is those self-fill machines at the grocery stores; they give very low ppm water, at a much better price,...

If I went this route,would I need to leave it sit open for 24 hours?


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